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#1
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I'm in the planning stages but also ordering supplies for my upcoming build, and I need a little guidance re: Acme threaded rod. What sort of machining needs to be done to the rod itself prior to use on these machines? Obviously it needs to be cut to length; is there anything else to be done before use? If so, is it something I can do, or am I gonna have to hire it out? For what it's worth, I'm going to be using the 1/2" Shaft Adapters and the Bearing Blocks from CNCRouterParts.com. Thanks in advance. |
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#2
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| I did not machine the ends of the acme leadscrews on my machine. On one axis, I used couplers from DumpsterCNC.com for the other two, I used couplers from CNCRouterParts.com. Both worked fine. Here's a photo of the DumpsterCNC.com axis: |
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#4
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| From what I can tell from the exploded view on the CNCRouterParts.com site, it looks like one end of the Acme rod goes into a coupler, and the other end goes into a bearing block assembly. What led me to ask this question was the sales pitch over at FineLineAutomation.com, where they offer the Acme rods "pre-cut and with chamfered ends to make loading the LeadNut much easier." I was all of a sudden afraid I was going to have to spend countless hours making a perfectly clean cut with a hacksaw and then cleaning up the threads with a tiny file or something. |
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#8
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| Not being the precision machinist that I would aspire to be, I cut mine with a hacksaw or my metal cutting band saw then square off the end on my 12" 80 grit disk sander, then twirl it a turn or two at a small bevel of about 45 degrees against the disk sander. If you leave it squared off, it will be harder to start in a delrin anti-backlash nut, but it can be done. If there are dings on the tops of the threads it won't slide into a bearing without locking up. Protect the threads while clamping for cutting. Cheap ACME rods may have burrs on the thread tops. Those can be lightly block sanded off with 400 grit sand paper and then final polished with 600 grit. CarveOne
__________________ CarveOne Resistance is not futile. It is voltage divided by current (R=V/I). |
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#9
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| Okay, thanks for the tips. It sounds like this can be done relatively simply without the need for a high-end machine shop to get usable results. Time and elbow grease I have in spades. Thanks to all of you for the support. |
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#10
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| If you feel creative, here's how I do mine, with minimal tools. http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cn...s_without.html
__________________ Gerry Mach3 2010 Screenset http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) |
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