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DIY-CNC Router Table Machines Discuss the building of home-made CNC Router tables here!


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Old 02-11-2011, 06:51 AM
 
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Cut Depth

Just did a couple of test carves on my new home built machine. What would be the most likely thing or things to look at, that would cause this?

1/2 and 3/8 x 10 single start screws
Dumpster leadnuts
305oz. steppers
Mach3
1/4 stepped

Thanks Mike
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Last edited by mlk1950; 02-11-2011 at 07:50 AM. Reason: Show Configuration
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Old 02-11-2011, 06:58 AM
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Z Axis, Missing steps? Loose coupling on screw? Can you post a pick of your Z axis?
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Old 02-11-2011, 07:08 AM
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Loose set screw?

Could be loose set screw on spud shaft to belt drive gear. Use locktite
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Old 02-11-2011, 08:16 AM
 
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I just noticed a slight amount of play on the carriage to gantry. Will tighten that up and see.
If it is loosing steps on the Z, do I need to back off the Accel or the Velocity to remedy that?.

Got to go to work, be back later. Got to make some money so I can feed my CNC obsession.

Thanks Mike
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Old 02-11-2011, 07:52 PM
 
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Haven't had a chance to retest my machine yet, but I do have another question. Should the velocity and accel in Mach3 be set the same in all 3 axis? Or is it common to set them up different for each axis? Just trying to learn as much as I can about this.

Thank's Mike
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Old 02-12-2011, 11:17 AM
 
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Set your velocity up to suit the needs of each individual axis. You wouldn't limit the speed of each axis to the speed of your slowest axis would you?

I take it you just got your machine going. You WILL run into problems like this at first. I did do. My first few cuts looked TERRIBLE. I was certain this whole CNC thing was a mistake, and I had just wasted a lot of money. But keep at it, ask questions, and you will get it going, and you will be amazed at what a machine like this can do.

Do you have a build thread? Would love to see it.

Looks like a Solsylva? Check out my thread, I did a lot of upgrades to the original Solsylva design. I will be more then happy to give you G-code for better bearing blocks and such.

Alex
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cn...a_build_w.html
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Old 02-12-2011, 01:10 PM
 
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Originally Posted by crane550 View Post
Set your velocity up to suit the needs of each individual axis. You wouldn't limit the speed of each axis to the speed of your slowest axis would you?

I take it you just got your machine going. You WILL run into problems like this at first. I did do. My first few cuts looked TERRIBLE. I was certain this whole CNC thing was a mistake, and I had just wasted a lot of money. But keep at it, ask questions, and you will get it going, and you will be amazed at what a machine like this can do.

Do you have a build thread? Would love to see it.

Looks like a Solsylva? Check out my thread, I did a lot of upgrades to the original Solsylva design. I will be more then happy to give you G-code for better bearing blocks and such.

Alex
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cn...a_build_w.html
Yes it is a Solsylva. It's been quite the experience, and loved every minute of it. I'm running the HCNC pro board with the 305 steppers. Here's a couple more pics. I'll welcome any suggestions or critiques you have to offer.

Thank's Mike
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Old 02-12-2011, 02:47 PM
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Mike,

Looks pretty good Mine started in the garage too... then built a workshop in the back yard (12' X 20') to put it and my other stuff in cause my wife thinks the garage should be for cars....

I set my X and Y for max of 60 IPM and the Z at a max of 20 IPM. I have a 4th axis (rotary) that can be set in the A, B or C axis that is set at 1200 degrees per min (20 deg sec) to do turnings with.

One of my earlier projects was a full set of alpabet blocks for the grandson. They are 2" cubes of hard maple with the letters and numbers all raised like the standard old blocks. I attached a zip with all the files for them if you want. Use a 1/8" dia bit with the Z zeroed at the top surface, and the X & Y Zeroed at the lower left of the block.

Steve

PS, cut the letters in the end grain of the wood.
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Old 02-12-2011, 03:06 PM
 
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Thanks vger, maybe that's part of my problem. I'm running my Z at 40IPM, I'll try to slow that down and see if that helps. I went over and was reading Crane's thread and what I decided to use on my X rail and gantry supports was 1 3/4" poplar. It's in between oak and pine for hardness and stability. A friend has a cabinet shop and we ran them through the thickness planer and joiner as to make sure they were absolutely straight. So far they have worked very well. Now just have to learn as much as I can and get her fine tuned.

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Old 02-12-2011, 08:10 PM
 
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My first son was just born this last December. He will be able to start playing with blocks soon, looks like I got a new project!
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Old 02-12-2011, 10:15 PM
 
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I'm running mine fairly slow. The max I've ran it at was 40 IPM. What do you think a safe speed would be to shoot for. I'm planning on putting dampners and limit switches on in the future, cuz I'm only running the single start 10 acmes. Eventually I plan on upgrading to 8-2 starts.
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Old 02-12-2011, 10:36 PM
 
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I am running 1/2-10 single start right now. My X is running 55 and Y at 60. I could probably push it more but I have not yet. I only been running the ACME rods for a few days. I managed to cut mahogany today at those speeds using a 1/2 bit taking .175 per pass. Worked flawlessly.

I have 1/2-10 5 start on the way for the Y. My Z is currently using 1/2-8 2 start, which will retract the router at 160 with no problems. Could probably go faster, but it's hard to jog and zero much faster then that.

Are you running anything else electronics wise on your machine other then the Pro board? Limit switches, and E-stop are still on the to do list.

Also, I am curious about the photo with the jumpers running on your board. Did you modify your driver?
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