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#1
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I'm about to order a couple of Anti backlash nuts from dumpstercnc but I'm having trouble deciding on the flange option I need. I would like to see how others have mounted their dumpstercnc parts. Also I'm going with the Black-Oxide finish on the Mcmaster Acme rods, are these a good fit on dumpstercnc nuts? Thanks. |
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#2
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| From what I have read the black oxide rods may melt plastic nuts. The coating on the rods isn't as smooth as an unfinished rod is. Generates more friction result in heat which will wear the nuts out early. |
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#3
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| It isn't a dumpster nut...it's roton...but they may be similar enough to get some useful idea of one way to mount one. The 3/4" bore I had in the slide block was too big. The screws holding the nut in place would've been in the bore about 1/2 way, so I made a 3/8" plate from a piece of aluminum as an adapter. *Much* better and more secure... ![]() The thinness of the anti-backlash nuts, where the threads are, definitely makes me want to avoid black oxide myself. The friction may be enough to soften the thin delrin. There's a big enough difference in 40-50 degrees of temp that can make a difference with plastics. Maybe being a bit too particular...as there are many-many people using them with no problems, but I have noticed enough of a difference in how hot screws get from fast travel and more friction enough to make a conscious effort to avoid oxide coatings in the future. I seriously considered a quick acid dip to remove it from the ballscrew I've been experimenting with. I'd much prefer the ballscrew was polished instead...and if it were a teeny bit less of a hassle, I'd get that oxide off of the screw. A motor at 150F won't burn as bad as when it's at 190F...and that's a common temp range they run at. It's also in the range of the softening point of many types of plastics. FWIW... ![]() ![]() John |
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#4
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| Harbor Freight used to have a thing like this on sale near constantly for about $12. Non-Contact Pocket Thermometer - Thermometers - Hand Tools I use it all the time. Mainly for adjusting my current to my motors down until they run at about the 160 F temp range. I never liked them running as hot as they do when full allowable current is applied...which gets them near 190 F. That's too close to their max temp ratings and I have had odd behavior from "too hot" motors in the past. I also used it to measure temperature of some really hot screws that left a burn pattern on my hand once. It melted the inside right out of an HDPE nut. A very useful little thing to have on hand just to check things if nothing else.... ![]() Off topic, but maybe useful to someone... ![]() John |
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#5
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| I use dumpster nuts on black oxide screws. The finish on my screws is as smooth as glass. It may have more friction, but I don't have any plain screws to compare it to. I do use oil on my screws. Pneumatic tool oil, which is very light and thin. I run mine at up to 800 rpm. As for the flange, I use the 4 hole square flange, mounted to aluminum angle.
__________________ Gerry Mach3 2010 Screenset http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) |
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#6
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| I started out trying the black oxide probably like most people...I reasoned that if they cost 30% more, then they must be somehow better. Also, I do plating and anodizing so I guessed they picked out the "better" parts to take the extra time and trouble to do the coating. But, one batch would be matte finished and another would look like high gloss paint. There's a few different ways of doing the coating. Which also suggested that maybe McMaster got them from different suppliers....maybe like Walmart... whoever is cheaper at the time... ![]() I noticed about a year ago that whenever I was having problems with nuts fitting perfectly and travel being a little different, the thing they had in common was the black screws. Then one day, my big machine gantry just stopped dead in the middle of cutting out a panel of MDF. The threads in a 1" thick block of HDPE had just softened and pushed right through. I grabbed the screw and got a pattern burned into my hand. I hadn't wanted to spray lubricant that might...(surely)...get all over the MDF I needed to paint. Then again, plain screws have come in so badly bowed or with dings in them that they had to be sent back. But I can't say I've had any problems with the good clean ones once they get a polishing on the lathe. Lots of people have Great luck with black screws. I'm just now beginning to avoid them myself. IIRC...the one that burned my hand was near 200F. The nut did last a good long time, but backlash kept showing up a bit more at a time. ![]() John |
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#7
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| Some screws Some differences are so subtle that they aren't easily noticed until the nut is fitted. Sometimes a tap has to be made for a particular shipment...if the hassle to ship them them back and risk the same thing happening all over again is to be avoided..... Life is like a box of chocolates. Was that what the guy said?.... ![]() ![]() John |
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