Is this DIY cnc router robust enough?

[ger21]

Originally Posted by Halfnutz I still dont understand why you dont just use aluminum for the entire construction. 80/20 will cut and tap the two main supports, and the rest can be made of 1/2 precision plate that you can cut with a regular wood table saw (with the right blade) or even a cheap jig saw. Otherwise build it just like you would with MDF, except forget about extra support, you wont need it.

Probably because aluminum will cost 4-5x as much.

[strat]

just do a search my photos from when i first built it are on here need to get some pics of the change ...... as far as the mdf i used it for my gantry and my cut table i just painted the gantry and for the cut area i used plastidip its a rubber for dipping your tools in less slippery and made the wood air tight also on my cut area i routed channels that i put neoprene in in the center a hole is for a vac that holds the work down (no clamps)

[mikeschn]

Originally Posted by ger21 Probably because aluminum will cost 4-5x as much.

And because I already have lots of good plywood sitting in the garage!!!

Mike...

[Halfnutz]

Theres nothing wrong with wood or MDF, but aluminum of course is far superior. If you have the lumber and dont have cash, well, thats a no brainer. But if your spending a bunch of cash anyway, and your experiencing problems with flexing, then it starts to make less sense sticking with the wood, especially when mixing it with other structural aluminum components. My feelings are go with one or the other, a low cost JGRO style MDF frame, or an all aluminum frame that costs more and doesent compromise. I was just trying to get you to consider the all aluminum approach, and wanted to assure you that it's something you could do with out too much added effort or cost.

Ive got a MDF table on my router and I'm replacing it because of the sagging, warping and flexing. I spent alot of time trying to strengthen underneath it, and I've concluded its not worth the hassle and frustration trying to make it sit flat and true, so I'll replace it soon with a 30.00 piece of 1/4 in. aluminum plate.

Just my two cents, the fun of this is doing it the way you want to, so dont mind me, I'm just sharing my experiences with you on MDF. Plywood may end up being completely fine, try it out, you could allways replace the wood panels with aluminum later if they dont hold up or start flexing.

(The above comments are the author's, and do not represent those of CNCZone or its management.)

[rweatherly]

I don't know where you are getting your plate, but the online price I have seen for 1/4" plate is $22 per square foot in a 3' by 4' sheet ($267 for the sheet).

[buscht]

rweatherly, Try this place for online metal purchasing. They don't always have the exact size but the price is pretty good.
http://www.lowcostmetals.com/index.a...S&Category=103

[rweatherly]

They do have good prices -- that's about $10 per square foot. Still MDF, is less than $.50 a square foot. I have just finished a JGRO, but have not yet gotten to the point of checking deflection. The most cost effective way of increasing the rigidity is probably a combination of MDF with steel angle -- depending on which part you are working on. (Steel has 1/3 the deflection for the same cross-section and is a lot less expensive)

Richard

[Halfnutz]

I get mine from Industrial Metal Supply in Irvine, CA. and I pay scrap ( around $2.00 a pound, but they let me weigh it myself and theyre not too picky) for anything on the remnant floor. Buying metal online is just way too expensive, it just doesent make sense. If you find a local supplier of plate you can get a good price on thier remnants. Sometimes if I buy a bunch of wierd shaped stuff they will knock 50% off, or give me steel price. Its like anything else, if you look around you can get it reasonable, but online is definately not practical compared to shopping around on the right side of town. You also have to buy what they have cut, not what size you want, its much, much less.

(The above oppinions are the authors and do not represent the views of CNCZone or its management.)

[strat]

i forgot (it was late ) i do have alum. angle running across under my mdf for cutting so no sag just cut a small notch and it lays between the alum ends and supports it