How do I use my inheritance?

[DIYaholic]

Hey All,
I recently ransacked through my mom's basement and "inherited" my dad's old L. S. Starrett #196 Universal Test Indicator. Problem is I have never used one and have no clue how to. Would anyone be able to point me to a link or site that may help me out? My searches haven't really resulted in anything very helpful.

On the plus side, if I never learn how it should be used , I can always blame my machine inaccuracies on my inability to use "Old # 196".

Thanks in advance for the help.
Randy,

[Geof]

Let's see if I can paint a good enough picture in words so you can at least experiment a bit.

The dial (obviously) is the thing to the upper right in the picture.

There is a toolpost mount, this is the long rectangular bar across the bottom of the picture just above a long round bar threaded at one end.

The threaded bar screws into the hole in the rectangular bar and the rectangular bar can be clamped into a toolpost so the round bar is either vertical or horizontal.

Slightly above and to the left of center is a 'thingy' (notice the highly technical terminology ) with a knurled knob and two holes. One hole fits on the round bar in the toolpost mount and the rod on the dial fits into the other. The knob clamps both at the same time.

Now you can clamp the dial in the toolpost in such a position that the button on the back is in line with the centerline of the spindle. If you have a piece of round material in the chuck you can carefully bring the button forward with the crosslide until it contacts the material in the chuck and when you rotate the chuck you needel will woble showing you the runout of the round material. Rotate the chuck one complete revolution and notice how far the needle deflects. This is the Total Indicator Reading, or TIR. If the needle does not deflect your part is running dead true; highly unlikely and practically impossible to obtain. A TIR of .005" means the part is out of true by 0.0025".(you will have to figure out the divisions on the dial, probably the smallest division is 0.0005").

The little array of buttons are just that, alternate buttons that screw onto the plunger shaft on the dial. Choose the smallest for highest precision on smooth material and a larger dome shaped one for rougher material.

The cross-shaped thing is for dialing inside holes. The dial is mounted through the hole with the knurled knob so that one end of the wiggly shaft bears against the button on the dial; now when you deflect the other end of the wiggly shaft the dial deflects. You can probably guess how this assembly mounts using the 'thingy'.

The C-clamp device is another mount. It has threaded holes in the end for the threaded mounting bars and it can be clamped onto anything. For instance if you wanted to dial in your tailstock you would clamp this onto a piece of material in the chuck and then mount the dial so the button was contacting the tailstock barrel. You need to make sure the face of the dial is perpendicular to a radial line from the center of the barrel. Now when you rotate the chuck the deflection shows the amount the barrel is off-center to the spindle.

Have fun. Just be real gentle, it is a precision instrument so move very slowly so you don't bash it into things until you are used to using it.

[CarveOne]

This tool is far too complicated. Just mail it to me and forget all about it. I'll even reimburse you for the postage.

CarveOne

[DIYaholic]

Geof,
I can't thank you enough for taking the time to educate a total neophyte. You are also an excellent instructor, as I was actually able to comprehend what you were describing (even the "thingy"). It would now appear that I can't blame my machine and parts inaccuracies on my inability to use "Old # 196", just my poor design & building skills (thanks for that ). Again, thanks for the very informative reply, it is greatly appreciated.

CarveOne,
As I stated in your "C-Channel Build", I'm not worthy. So perhaps I will have to take you up on your offer to free me from the burdens and frustrations of trying to use such a "complicated tool". However, instead of reimbursing me for postage, how about you send me your "C-Channel Machine" once you are through building it. You see, I'm willing to relieve you of the "Burdens & Frustrations" of trying to keep 2 CNC's productive and up & running. Give it a thought and let me know what you think (I'll even split shipping costs with you).

Guys, enjoy yourselves, happy CNC'ing and may the "chips" fall where they will.

Randy,

[CarveOne]

Well, I tried to relieve you of it. "The Tank" will not be leaving here anytime soon. Even for an old Starrett collector's item. Take care of it. It may be worth some serious money to tool collectors.

CarveOne

[DIYaholic]

Wait, that came out ALL wrong!

I do plan on taking care of it. I believe all tools should be well cared for and given their due respect, or else how could you expect them to perform properly. As it goes, I need the tool and the tool needs me. Korny I know but I am a tool guy. "Old # 196" does need to be "cleaned up" a bit. Any ideas on whether or not it would be cost effective to have it tested and/or recalibrated?

I also "inherited" a small Craftsman/Atlas lathe that needs a lot of "Love" to get it back into working order. Don't know anything about the lathe but the ways have surface rust, the acme screw seams damaged also, needs a motor and who knows what else. Looks like I'll soon be spending a ton of time in the lathe forum.

Another toy I inheited was a Dewalt RAS. It works, but needs some attention. I have put it to good use, all prior to it's move to Vermont.

It's great to finally have space for a shop. So now it's time to "Set Up Shop" and start designing and building a CNC router of my own. I've a basic concept of what I want, 3' x 4' 80/20 machine with R&P for X & y, Acme for the Z axis. I have to work out the paticulars and design it in Alibre Express. Alibre is driving me crazy, my laptop doesn't have enough memory so it freezes up or does weird things.

My future involves posting many, many questions and then some more questions. I just hope the great minds here on the Zone are up to the challenge and don't let me down (I know they are and won't)!

Randy,

[CarveOne]

You can find a lot of info on your Atlas lathe on the UK website here. Some of the parts are still available from various sources.

They are well worth restoring them but you can probably buy a new one of similar size for less money.

CarveOne

[DIYaholic]

CarveOne,

Thanks for the link. That is quite the site.

Perhaps the lathe restoration will be a future project as I must conserve funds to "set up shop", build a cnc router, computer upgrade and the list goes on and on and on....

But I do like the idea of resurrecting an old tool.... of course, the lathe could help build the cnc.... So, which comes first the chicken or the egg?

I must focus on a CNC router, I can buy or source machining of parts for a cnc router. Besides this IS the "DIY-CNC Router Table Machines" forum and any other talk could be seen as blasphamy.

It is now time to return to the important task of learning Alibre Express and design my DIY-CNC Router Table Machine.

Bye for now.

Randy,

[Geof]

Originally Posted by DIYaholic ....Any ideas on whether or not it would be cost effective to have it tested and/or recalibrated?....Randy,

Probably not worth it, even if you could find someplace to get it done. Most times these instruments (to be picky it is not a tool ) are used for relative measurements not absolute so you are not relying too much on the accuracy of the instrument but more on the repeatability.

You can actually do a rough calibration yourself by turning steps in a piece of round bar; small steps around 0.004" on the diameter. Then traverse along these steps with your indicator and see if the needle deflection reflects the 0.002" differences in the radii. This also can test repeatability if you get the same readings go up or down.

[DIYaholic]

Again, Thanks Geof.
Your explanation is concise and insightful. I appreciate the lesson. You're not "picky" you're precise. I too, tend to be precise however my friends call me "retentive", which I take as a compliment.