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#1
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Hello friends, in this moment I'm trying to aasemble my first CNC machine, I got some products from Keling Inc but I have noticed that the diagramas are not so complete at least for a beginner as me, so if you can help me I would be very grateful, in particular I'm not sure about the wiring of this product http://www.kelinginc.net/KL-5056WithC10.pdf and the positión of four jumpers of this card, the first jumper is used to set the output/input pins as GND or a 5 volts, the second jumper is used to set the inputs/ outputs as "pull down" or "pull up" I don't understand these terms, the third jumper is used to select the pins outputs/ inputs as inputs or outputs, ( i understand the function of this one) and finally the fourth jumper is used to set the inputs as "pull down" or "pull up", i said that these terms are new for me, surely my expanation is not so clear, I apologize for that, thanks. |
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#2
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| Your question is? "pull down" or "pull up" I don't understand these terms Inactive output goes to "high resistance" state. You use resistor (or load) * to positive voltage in case of "pull up" output. Active output is nearly 0V it sinks current from load.* Inactive is just hanging - closed transistor. The "positive voltage" is up to you. Must not exceed allowed range, of course. And * vice versa * in case of "pull down" setting. The outputs of that type allows you to use voltages, different from output device power voltage and in case you can connect some outputs together - no static interference. |
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#3
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| Thanks, I almost forgot some very basic principles of electronics, I have to get invoved again with the topic, now my questions is: Is there any difference if I use a PULL- UP or a PULL-DOWN setting, what it depends on? |
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#4
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| Trying to help, but the diagram doesn't show the pullup/pull down jumpers. It does show the jumper for the pins 2-9 as inputs or outputs. Assuming you are using the BOB to drive motors, you want them as outputs. Algirdis is correct, but perhaps didn't tell you want you needed to know. The pullup and pull down only affects inputs. It determines what the state of the input is when there is nothing connected to it. You sometimes can also set what is considered "on": zero volts ("low") or some positive voltage ("high"). Let's start with the obvious - positive is on, zero is off. Let's say that for some reason, you want no connection to be off. In that case, you want a pull down resistor, that pushes the input with nothing connected to off. If you had a pull up resistor, then nothing connected would be on. Suppose on is low, off is high (positive), and you have a pull up resistor. Then with nothing connected, the input would be high, and that means off. This is pretty common. For example, take an E-Stop input. You want E-Stop to fail safe. So, suppose a wire broke. Nothing would be connected to the input, and you want E-Stop to be activated. A very common wiring for E-Stop is one side to ground, the other side to the input, pull up resistor, positive is activated (stop). The E-Stop is normally in a closed position, which means the input is at 0 volts (ground). If the E-Stop is pushed, the switch opens. Nothing is connected to the input, and the pullup resistor brings it to positive voltage, which activates it. Suppose a wire broke. It would be just like pressing the switch - no connection, pullup causes input to go to high, E-Stop is activated. You commonly use pull up, not pull down. Then you set low is on or low is off depending on how your switches work. If you have more than one switch that does the same thing (like a bunch of limit switches), you can wire them either in series (one connected to the other) or parallel (all of one side of each switch connected together, all of the other side connected together). Let's take the first case: wired in series. That's what the diagram shows. You want any switch to activate limit. So, you wire it the same as E-Stop: pull up, activate high, normally closed switches. If any limit switch opens, the input goes high, and limit is activated. Suppose you wired them all in parallel. Any switch activates again. So you wire it pull up, active low, normally open switches. Any switch connects the input to ground, which activates. The diagram you posted doesn't show the jumpers, but this one: http://www.kelinginc.net/c10.pdf does. The jumper in the upper left is the pins 2-9 inputs or outputs. You are driving motors, so they are outputs, and you jump pins 1-2. The jumper in the middle right determines whether the common pin between the output pins is power or ground. I believe you want it to power, looking at the 5056 manual. It looks like the inputs are provided with pull down resistors, so they look low if nothing is connected. There is no jumper for this. You need +5 at the Enable pin. You can do this with an external wire, or you can arrange the charge pump on Mach3 to handle it. |
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#5
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| Is there any difference if I use a PULL- UP or a PULL-DOWN setting, what it depends on? sure, it is different. You will have always one voltage of the output signal in case of wrong (wiring + setting). suppose, You select "pull up" output. Instead of wiring the load from output to positive, You do wire from output to ground. 1. output is active, that means, output is trying to sink current to ground. You have 0V drop on the load, because other end of the load is connected to ground. Active output makes no sense at this case. 2. output is off. That means, 0V drop on the load, because one end is hanging in the air. Another end is connected to ground. |
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