I need help hacking the Milwaukee 5625 router motor...

[maspeir]

I took the motor apart to both clean out nearly five years of built up dust and to remove the stock speed controller in preparation for the SuperPID.

However, the wiring from the speed control is not what I was expecting, so now I am kind of lost.

Here is the motor frame. Sorry about the fuzzy images, but the camera on my phone sucks.

There are two motor windings At the left, between the red circled connector and the uncircled connector at the bottom and at the right between the blue circled connector and the uncircled connector at the top. The uncircled connectors are where the brushes plug in.



Here is the bottom of the speed control:

The white wire from the power cord connects to the green circled connector and this is where it get weird. There are two outputs. However, going back to the motor frame, the blue and red circled connectors are electrically connected to the green circled connectors closest to them. This poses a problem. One wire from the speed controller is directly connected to the black wire from the power cord, shorting out the motor.



Unfortunately, the speed controller's circuitry is potted in some kind of black rubber substance, so I cannot trace anything.

Has anyone ever directly connected the power cord to the windings without frying the motor in the process? I really do not want to have to replace a perfectly good motor.

[maspeir]

Well, I feel stupid! Of course the speed controller is going to need more than one leg of power and it only has to output a pulsed signal to one leg of power, so the configuration makes perfect sense.

I am curious though what effect bypassing the controller would have on the windings. I'm assuming no effect, but that may not be the case.

[msimpson99]

Most if not all veriable speed routers will use pwm to vary the speed of the router. This controller would have to be in between the AC power and the brushes.

Now very high end routers like the Festool routers for example have a closed loop system. IE they have a sensor that senses the RPMS so that at lower RPMS they can supply more power as needed.

This sensor in the cases I have seen is a extra two lead wire that goes from the speed controller down into the bouls of the router.

For the conversion to the superpid you would ignore this sensor and utilize the super PID sensor in stead.

[maspeir]

The speed controller actually uses a hall effect sensor for tachometer readings. I doubt this uses PWM for speed control, but again, the controller's circuitry is sealed and I do not have access to an oscilloscope, so I really cannot be sure.

It is a high dollar router though.

[msimpson99]

The hall effect sensor is just a small magnetic sensor the controller brain uses to get the speed. The speed controller still uses PWM to control the speed.

In the case of hacking this router you would ignore the hall efeect sensor and attach the the Super PID sensor instead. Then all you have to do is get access to the two brushes.

[RomanLini]

It's a bit hard to advise based on fuzzy photos.

I found a parts diagram here but no schematic;
Milwaukee 5625-29 395A parts breakdown on ToolPartsDirect.com

and this website has photos of taking one apart;
Paco's area: Servicing the Milwaukee 3.25HP router 5625 motor brushes

Of the 3 wires on the speed controller, what I have seen on other routers is that 2 wires need to be joined to bypass the speed control and one wire just needs to be disconnected.

Of the 2 wires that need to be joined, one ALWAYS goes to the mains power and nothing else, although it may go through a switch then to mains power. It will not connect to a brush or winding.

Of the remaining 2 wires, if one goes to a join between winding and brush (so it connects
to both) this is the wire that can be disconnected, and the other wire is the join wire.

That setup looks like this;
1. JOIN wire - goes to mains only, or to power switch then mains only (no windings or brushes)
2. JOIN wire - this goes JUST to a winding
3. DISCONNECT wire - this goes to BOTH a brush and a winding

There is another setup that is also common;
1. JOIN wire - goes to mains only, or to power switch then mains only (no windings or brushes)
2. JOIN wire - this goes JUST to a winding
3. DISCONNECT wire - this goes to the OTHER mains wire, and also to the other winding

Hope that helps, and please post any more information when you get it sorted!