illeboc-r's first cnc build in pics and diagrams

[neurofen]

thought i'd share this with you, was trying to order some 90x90 aluminium profile. but don't think i'll bother

£352,787.00 for uk delivery??? , and that's ex. VAT

[hemsworthlad]

Originally Posted by neurofen thought i'd share this with you, was trying to order some 90x90 aluminium profile. but don't think i'll bother £352,787.00 for uk delivery??? , and that's ex. VAT

Ha ha cheap at half the price I've bought loads from them and this is a first . . . . must be the weather. .!!

They are a good reliable company and the cutting service is exellent every piece exactly has ordered.

Edit: I've just been and input exactly same and it worked ok here.?

[neurofen]

must be my browser, shame could have done with a bit of 90x90 before christmas for the gantry. itll wait

[neurofen]

just lugged 5 meters of 2"x4". al box. one meter of 10mm x 100mm x 1000mm al. flat bar(which i didnt even use in the end), bag full of motors and a z-axis. plus about half a meter square of 6mm steel plate from london to kent.

f@@k ever doing that again. i seriously need a car.

down to a mill with a mate and have drilled the 2 y axis beams for rails and ballscrew suppports, plus the support trusses.

also made a start on the mounting plates for the gantry to the y axis, from 6mm plate steel, which we cut to approximate size, de burred sightly and then drilled with the holes for the carriages and ballscrew housing.

with a little bit of discussion and guidance have decided to go for either 90x90 aluminium profile for the x axis gantry or some 6mm thick 90x90 box section. which should help a bit to eleminate some of the chatter that other users have been experiencing with 2x4 box.= for similar machine frame types.


few pics attached.

to start with going to use rivnuts to hold the y-axis to the support beams below it, doing this should give me a bit of give to adjust the parallel -ness (if thats a word) of the 2 y axis rails, when first assembling before tightening.

[neurofen]

made from 6mm steel, drilled for carriages and ballscrew block

have some 12mm approx. steel blocks(in pic ) which im going to mill back in lenght, bringing the carriages up to the height of the top of the ballscrew nut housing.

[neurofen]

not much travel on my z axis at the mo and stilll need another carriage for the x - axis linear railing.

one more plate than i'd like, will make it easier to dis/assemble, need to work on the design and placement after the hols.

trying to keep the centre of axis of the ballscrew nuts on x and z together

missing the ballscrew on x

routers stripped back as far as i can get it, might need another one though, somehting with a bit more umph at lower rpm..

[neurofen]

had a bit of a reushuffle of the z to x axis mounting plates, to get rid of the over hang which would have restricted x direction travel, still working on it to get the best out of it that i can,

need to cut back the top of the steel mounting plate.

does any one use counter weights? theres a lot on the router side of the gantry and nothing on the back

[neurofen]

bought 3 Rex-Step 425 oz/in # RHT34-425 steppers, which i may or may not need to upgrade and some gecko g201 's, early revisions which should be good for the job.

got some old cpu heat sinks lying about which should do the trick for the drivers and some 12cm fans which give good airflow.

going to rip out the dust filters from a disued lianli pc case for the driver box: which i could probably make out of the sides of it.



Any one using rexstep motors? specificly the rht34's??

[neurofen]

thought i'd post a few more pics, could do with a bit of advice.

ideally i'd like to get some 100x100 aluminium profile for the gantry but might go with some box instead and fill it with sand, i cant find any retrofit frame with the correct spacing for by ballscrew mounts;using a bit of the frames 4x2 just to lay out the components.

got some small L shaped ally pieces i found in a skip :¬ which i'm trying to use to save some cash, though it'd be a good idea to support the z/x axis mount by railing at the top as well as on the front, the L section seems perfect for this but its a little to short to allow for the verticle linear rail to be right at the bottom of the gantrys verticle face.

I've tried a test configuration of blocks with the ballnut housing to the side which isnt ideal but i r read somehwere that this might be an option, anyyone using a non centered approach?

i've a feeling im oing to need to get some 6x6 L section. anyone got any off cuts?

on the subject of L section aluminium how sturdy is it?, im not sure of its grade, would it be better to use to plates bolted togetehr at right angles?

[hemsworthlad]

Using 1 block would be a BIG mistake, if you only have 3 blocks then better with 2 on front and 1 on top.

Yes it would be better using plate bolted together at right angles, what length & width do you need for front and top piece if bolted together.? I may have offcuts long enough.

[neurofen]

thanks dude, i meant to give you a ring but in the middle of girlfriend drama ...

saw the last machine you built, looks wikid, really nice work


i've attached the mount dimensions, im a bit stuck at the mo without a workshop,cant get down to kent until next month, any offcuts/help'd be appreciated, id obvisouly return the favour any way i can (nothing illegal though ) . is it better to use aluminium or steel?


i still cant decide whether or not to use retrofit 100x100 for the gantry as you suggested or just plain hollow :¬ box with sand, i;d rather go with the retrofit, but the groves are all in the wrong place, you any ideas on how to attach the ballscrew mounts to retrofit with hole missmatch, without plating it
?

i've included the revised frotn and top face gantry layout

[hemsworthlad]

Hi ok I just remembered i've got a Z axis back plate that I cocked up, it's all pocketed out for ballscrew and profiled bearings with holes etc but I could easily surface the bearing pockets away which would just leave a channel machined down the centre aprox 7mm deep.
It's 19mm thick at min but would end up around 16 with bearing pockets surfaced away, L260 W190 bit pepperd with 6mm holes but could easily work round those chopping a few away and even use a few. . . . See pic.

It's just the same but shorter with only the 2 lower counter bore holes on the flat bit, that was the cock up should have been taller. . .Doh. (No it dont come with ballscrew. .)

I'll look in workshop tomorrow and see if i've any plate kicking around, may have some 10mm but it will only be 150 wide.

Steel will work ok just ali is easier to work with.

Edit: just seen your other pic how wide is that ball nut.?