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#2
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| Cool, how is that on the amps? Looks like it might hurt the controller. Have you tried a less demanding pecker? Plunge down at a depth and only back-up half-way, hold (to allow amps to regain and debris to eject), then plunge down again to your next depth, and back up by half the full drop. This would be even better with a plunge pressure-sensor and a blade RPM detector. Only back-off when plunge resistance is higher then expected or binding is detected, or at a minimum set interval. Which-ever comes first. Eg, even if one sensor is beyond scope, there is always a plan-B to force it to peck. Time to add another glide rail to your side supports! Looked like that thing was trying to walk off the rail... "It's alive!", let it free! |
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#3
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| The wobble you see is the camera. Its mounted on a mono pod with legs. the controller is a G540 controller and it has no problems handiing what I am giving it. It can cut like that all day long. As for the waist is clearing enough as its flying out just fine. I have drilled a lot of holes and find that I get much better results doing it this way rather than doing longer slower pecks. I got this idea watching a pro mill peck the other day. I was told they do it this way as the bits stay much cooler. |
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