Build Thread- Solsylva based aluminum/steel leadscrew

[AUGuru]

Decided it was time to start a build thread so I had a place to post status and share with some people on and off the board I'm talking with.

My build is based on the Solsylva 25x25 and the 24x48 plans.

The frame will primarily be welded and bolted steel (angle, c-channel, and Super-Strut). The Y gantry is aluminum, the Z axis carriage and Y gantry end plates are phenolic plate with aluminum brackets. I plan on making the bed sacrificial MDF on the metal frame.

Initially I'm using 36" stainless 5/16 all thread leadscrews with 608 bearings, with an eye to move to larger acme in the future. 1/2" ID black iron pipes used on all axises using the same 608 bearings.

I have started by building the Y gantry and end plates. The gantry body is a piece of 3" extruded aluminum T channel multi-track from Rocker woodworking cut down to 33" length. The end plates are 3"x4"x3/4" phenolic. Bearing block is 3/4" HDPE.

[otto_pjm]

Cool looking build, and good luck with it. I've got similar things going with a Solsylva upgrade. Feel free to ask questions there. Quick thought on the lead screws. Per a suggestion in the plans. I built my Y with Hardware store all-thread and my X with Acme threaded rod. I wouldn't recommend the Hardware store rod route at all. I found out that enco sells single start Acme rod very cheaply, almost as cheap as the all thread, and it's so much nicer. (100 vs. 35 IPM for me)

That said, you are then required to have Acme centric lead nuts, which can be expensive. I'm planning to try and make an Acme Tap out of some extra rod, and tap some delrin I have, I'll let you know if it works. I've been using a Acme hex nut, also quite reasonable from enco for my Z axis for over a year, had to replace it once. but it's held up pretty well. I bought one for the X here.

enco acme rod is here, if you want to check it out.

It's often on sale (seems to be currently) for about $1 a foot and nuts are $1.50.

This should get you close

[AUGuru]

3/8 Acme should be a drop in replacement with bearing changes and the right lead screw. I was looking at DumpsterCNC. He's got anti-backlash nuts and clamps for 3/8-12 acme.

The Enco price is a little better than the McMaster Car price, but McMaster has a few more selections (like 3/8-10 and stainless)

Edit: My bad. I found the sale price and the rest of the catalog. $5.99 for 6' pf 3/8-12 is a great deal.

[AUGuru]

3/8 - 12tpi Acme from Enco is here (thanks for the lead on that sale price Otto)
3/8 ID bearings from VXB.Com are here
3/8 12 Acme anti-backlash nuts and couplers from DumpsterCNC showed up Saturday
Probotix Green Monster 4 axis kit should be here this week

Prompt shipping and good products from all of those vendors so far.

The trucks, top and back plates for the Y axis are done, building the side plates tonight when I called it a night. I hope to get the Z built this week. I'll post some more pictures soon.

[otto_pjm]

Hey, I'm getting ready to cut my Multitrack, did you use a hacksaw or a power saw. I've cut lots of AL with my power miter saw and a plywood blade, but none of it have been anodized like the Multitrack is, what was your experience cutting it?

Pete

[AUGuru]

Originally Posted by otto_pjm Hey, I'm getting ready to cut my Multitrack, did you use a hacksaw or a power saw. I've cut lots of AL with my power miter saw and a plywood blade, but none of it have been anodized like the Multitrack is, what was your experience cutting it? Pete

I used a metal band saw (horizontal) that I had access to while at my Dad's blacksmiths shop a few weekends ago. It cut like butter. I cleaned the cut up with a a file just to smooth it out, not because it needed it.

All of the 3/4" and 1" x 1/8" aluminum angle I've been cutting by hand with a jig saw with a good metal blade on it.

[AUGuru]

My electronics showed up this week so I decided to spend some time with them. I got the 4 axis kit from Probotix with 40V power supply. A few of the terminal post screws were loose in the bags, but all accounted for with some searching. I also got the AC relay board, so I was short a few standoffs (I ordered those extra), but nothing a trip to the PC store didn't fix.

The case is a old desktop surge protector. I gutted it but left the AC plugs in the back to use as outputs for the relay board. The power supply stands a bit proud for the old cover but I cut a section out and will be building a box to mount a fan and vents. I hope to mount the whole thing in a rack with the shop pc.

Still to-do: lots of wiring, heat sinks for the drivers, some fans (which I need to figure out how to power) and a new front panel

[AUGuru]

It's been a while since I posted, but I have been slowly working. Started to weld up the router frame, and building a table/stand for the machine.

Table is made with 2x2" square tube (fence posts actually) and is 5' x 3', bolted together with 1/2" x 3" bolts and UniStrut 90 degree brackets. All through bolts are sleeved with a piece of black iron pipe as a spacer. I still need to make and bolt up the lower stretchers and then I'll figure out if/where I need some angle braces.

[AUGuru]

Got stretchers on the table/stand legs and it has a bit of wobble in it. Trying to avoid welding the stand and I want to have some dust control anyway, so I'm going to case the sides in with plywood and add a sloped base with a 6" dust port on one end.

Also spent an evening working on the cover to the power supply/control box. Got the fans all wired up to the low voltage power supply.