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#1
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Ok, so I have been reading up on all that I can find about building a CNC Routing Table and then it dawns on me. How do you cut 1/2" or 5/8" 6061 aluminum plate into the parts needed? Nothing complicated, cuts straight cuts. Is this a Catch22 senario? You need a CNC Router to mill the aluminum parts in order to build the table? How about using a router in a jig and make a kazillion passes for each cut. I was about to begin to order raw materials to begin my build but until I can figure this out it's on hold. Any help is greatly appreciated!! |
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#2
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| Straight cuts - I use an 80 tooth carbide blade on a power miter box saw to cut some pretty thick 6061 plate and bar. It works well and leaves a very acceptable finish. Wear earplugs, though. Scott
__________________ Consistency is a good thing....unless you're consistently an idiot. |
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#5
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| If the saw has the power - I can't see why not. I have been using my saw for about 4 years to cut aluminum - that's what I bought it to for - specifically. I plan to buy a cold saw in the future, but for now this is how I do it and the results are good. The Diablo blades seem to work the best for me, but they are around $70 for a 12", 80 tooth blade at Lowes or Home Depot. They make a blade specifically for cutting non-ferrous metals. Spray the blade with WD-40 or something before each cut - this will help prevent the aluminum from sticking to the face of the teeth. Then you have to find the right feed - too much seems to be better than not enough. If you feed it really lightly, the teeth will clog. I feed it pretty aggressively to keep the teeth clear - I bog the saw down a little and use the load of the saw as a guide. If the blade does clog, feed it fairly aggressively into a scrap piece of aluminum to clear the teeth. If that fails, use a fine file on the face of the teeth - it won't touch the carbide, but it will remove the aluminum - just use care not to screw up the teeth - especially the corners. I have tried using wax as a lubricant, but WD seems to work just as well and is easier to mess with. Good luck - keep us posted, and maybe take some pictures of the procedures, darn it!! Scott
__________________ Consistency is a good thing....unless you're consistently an idiot. |
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#6
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| I have hope once again!! I also have a metal abrasive chop saw that I probably could use for smaller parts. But the cuts that I was really concerned about were the long cuts for the gantry uprights. Any other comments or ideas will be greatly appreciated. (Guys, I've got to say that this site is awesome! User support is excellent, ideas are free flowing and I'm not getting flamed because I'm new. Life is good!) I am waiting to hear back on a quote for some steel tubing off Ebay for the base. In the mean time the garage is 90% cleaned up, I'll check the batteries in the digital camera.... "all systems are go" !! |
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#7
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| Use a triple chip blade, and using a sliding cutoff table or sled on the table saw. I've cut 1/4" in one pass easily, without lubricant. For 1/2" I'd make 2 or 3 passes. Make sure the blade is sharp.
__________________ Gerry Mach3 2010 Screenset http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) |
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#9
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| Don't use an abrasive cut off wheel to cut aluminum. The aluminun will clog the wheel and make it useless. I have seen the build up develop in an uneven pattern and throw the wheel out of balance.
__________________ If it's not nailed down, it's mine. If I can pry it loose, it's not nailed down. |
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#11
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| 2muchstuff - thanks for the tip on the abrasive cut off wheel. I'll be sure not to use that. I'll probably just stick with my table saw, 80T carbide blade and WD30. A couple of people have mentioned using a metal bandsaw. And it would give me a reason to buy another tool ...hhmmmm.... it might even look pretty good standing in my garage |
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#12
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Hook me up with the info on the WD-30. I use WD-40, but it's too heavy for some stuff... ..just kidding, dfranks!Personally - I would stick to the table saw and save your $$ for now - the bandsaw would be good to have, but for what you have described the table saw is going to give you more than adequate results - far superior to the band saw - and quicker. A band saw is a future requirement - absolutely. As far as thicknesses of cut - like I eluded to yesterday, I am using a 12", direct drive, DeWalt compound miter box with an 80 tooth Diablo blade made for cutting alum and in the recent past I made a toolpost grinder (kind of) out of a chunk of 6"X4"x3" in one 'chop' per side. The surface finish appeared Blanchard ground when I completed the clean-up cuts and the part was square and parallel within .007". It got a little warm, but it was still very handle-able. This thread is in desperate need of pictures!!! Enjoy - and you are hereby required to keep us posted on the results. Scott
__________________ Consistency is a good thing....unless you're consistently an idiot. |
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