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| DIY-CNC Router Table Machines Discuss the building of home-made CNC Router tables here! |
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#1
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Hi, I currently use my traditional router table to make custom profile wood molding in oak. I hand feed the work past the cutter very carefully and raise the bit several times to achieve the right dept of cut. Since I don't have a automatic roller feed, the results are not always consistent with a few burns and dips due to the hand over hand feeding. I recently built a cnc router with a true 32" X axis travel and would like to use it to make these very same wood molding. Here is just a few of my thoughts on how I would do it. Maybe somebody can chime in with some other tips and setup ideas. 1. build a jig which holds the 3/4" thick 3"tall oak material vertical. 2. it would be either clamped at both ends or screwed to the back of the jig. 3. create a g code to move the y axis for shallow cuts and cut length wise down the x axis. cut down the x in both directions? 4. after the finish pass, move the work piece another 32" In theory it should but work, but I maybe missing something. If you successfully made molding with the cutters in the picture and with your cnc router, I would like to hear from you. If have any pictures of your setup or mounting jig, that would be great. I did a long search in the zone and did not find any mention of what I had in mind. If I missed it, please pass on the link to me. Thanks in advance, Rod San Francisco |
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#3
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| Building a simple power feed for your router table would be much easier than making a CNC jig that will keep your overlaps invisible. Re-indexing work in a straight line is a big pain in the butt if the contour is continuous because any deviation in alignment will show. |
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#4
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Drassk,Thanks for chiming in. I'm a capable home shop machinist but not that capable of building a power roller like the photo. My machine build is here: http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102439 Besides, I built my cnc router for projects like I suggested. Otherwise, it would be gathering dust instead of chips. I would like to get maximum usage from my cnc router like using it as a pen plotter for large drawings I can't do myself. As far as the jig. It would be simply mounted to the table and as parallel as possible to the X axis. The work piece would bottom out on a cleat and the back would rest against the jig. The difference in work piece thickness should be the only special consideration? The cutter comes in, does its cuts and back away. Then I reposition the piece if it's longer than the jig and 32" cutting path. Any thoughts and comments would be great. Rod |
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#5
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| If you can use a long vacuum plate, you might get enough repeatability. Otherwise, you'll need to screw the boards to a plate from behind. Without the board being completely held down hard against a dead straight backer, the witness lines between passes will turn the piece into a sanding exercise or scrap. It's doable, but the fixturing has to be perfect and it seems like a lot of extra work for little gain. On the other hand, the number of pointless projects I've made on my VMC really destroy my credibility in the 'take the easier way' department |
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#6
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| Drassk, You have some very good points. Especially how critical the fixture has to be and how secure the work piece has to be mounted. I'm thinking that anything has to be better than hand feeding the work over and past a very large cutter. As careful I am to feed the work at a consistent rate, I still get inconsitant results and end up with some sanding. Then there is the issue with material not being completely flat which produces poor results if not kept pushed down against the table. Been there, done that and am still doing it! Cnc router to the rescue? Sure, it would take more time setting up and cutting on a cnc, but it will be safer and much more enjoyable. zip zip zip (sound of screw gun mounting piece to the backerboard) Press Run on Mach3 Watch that machine you spent $$$$$$$ and months to make, do it with ease. Repeat. Rod |
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#7
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I have made jigs like you memtion with fully adjustable rubber rollers with bearing to keep the work snug and free rolling from all four side with "moulded" plastic guides for more complex compound curves on the out feed side. Having a power feed would be nice but i find having a buddy sure helps, just remember to when your stop pushig the othe guy is still pulling the workin on the out feed side when your feed by hand. all hands are safe distance away from the bits... and cut scrap peace identical to the orginal for feeding the last foot or so as push stick.
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#9
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| i made my own but I have rollers from all side ie built in the fence also rollers top pushing down on work and from the side via feather brd and rollers are you try to do long striaght lenghts only or any thing? i would make a flow threw spoil brd or pods and have the pcs stationary and have 4x8 cnc you can make any thing then YouTube- NEMI Slider Pods! |
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