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DIY-CNC Router Table Machines Discuss the building of home-made CNC Router tables here!


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Old 06-15-2010, 10:03 PM
 
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Getting ready to solder connections for G540, have one last question!!!

In the manual for the G540 it says....

Pin 1 CURRENT SET resistor
Pin 2 GND Pin
Pin 3 GND Pin
Pin 4 GND Pin
Pin 5 CURRENT SET resistor
Pin 6 PHASE B motor wire
Pin 7 PHASE /B motor wire
Pin 8 PHASE A motor wire
Pin 9 PHASE /A motor wire

When it is referring to the "/B" does that mean B+ or B-?


Also I bought these resistors from Digikey
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...me=3.48KXBK-ND

Are these the correct ones to use with these keling steppers?

http://www.kelinginc.net/KL23H2100-35-4B.pdf
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Old 06-15-2010, 10:43 PM
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/B is B-, and /A is A-. Your resistor looks like the right one to get 3.5A/phase from that motor. Happy soldering

Ahren
www.cncrouterparts.com
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Old 06-21-2010, 07:31 AM
 
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Everything went great. I have always underestimated the value of a GOOD soldering iron. I have always used cheapo ones that I bought. This time I used one we have here at work that is susposed to be a "good one". It made life so much easier and it looks like a professional did it.
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Old 06-21-2010, 02:03 PM
 
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You can get great joints from cheapo irons, but you have to understand the basics:
1. You need a mechanical joint first, then solder. Solder doesn't make a good mechanical connection. If the joint falls apart by touching it, it's not good enough.
2. You need to heat the joint, and add the solder. The most common soldering mistake is to heat the solder. If the joint is not hot enough to melt the solder, it won't work. If you cant get the joint hot enough, usually it's because your iron isn't hot enough. That can come from two common problems - not enough power, or a poor tip to heating element connection in the iron. One of those is usually the problem with cheap soldering irons. They are often way underpowered, and they often have loose tips.
3. Not too much or too little solder. You want to completely wet the joint, and have the solder flow all around. You don't want a blob of solder.

With a D-shell connector, you want a 30 watt or so iron, with a good, small, clean tip. Get it up to temperature, wipe the tip off on a damp sponge, add a little solder to coat it, wipe it off on the sponge and then start soldering. You want to put the connector in a vise, and have some arrangement to hold the wires in the cups without using your fingers. Solder one wire at a time. Heat the joint (cup and wire), until solder touched to a place on the joint not the iron melts the solder. Feed solder into the joint until the cup is filled and the solder wicks up the wire. Remove the iron. NOTHING SHOULD MOVE. Good solder joints are smooth and shiny.

Use rosin core solder only. I hate the no lead solder, but it's sometimes the only thing you can find.
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Old 06-21-2010, 02:36 PM
 
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Thats pretty much what I did. I will never buy a cheapo again.
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