Problem- Problem with router relay

[wbegg]

I recently switched out my router on my table for a Porter Cable 892 2.25 HP vs router. Now my relay to auto-start the router has some issues. With the router switch on, Mach3 will not activate the relay when told to. If I turn the router switch off, tell Mach3 to start spindle, and turn the router switch on, it starts, and will stop if told so by Mach3.

I am using a solid state relay that requires a load to activate. Could it be that the soft start feature of the router is not allowing a large enough initial load for the relay to close? Would a pull-up resistor on the control voltage (pin 14, LPT1) help?

I'm Confused!

[Al_The_Man]

How do you have it configured?
Is the P.P. output to the SSR direct?
What is the part # of the SSR?
If there is any issue with the SSR switching, I believe it would be on the output side, not the input, the input side does not know what is happening on the output as it is isolated.
Possibly the issue is because if the router has variable speed, the input to the router is a solid state device also.
I have never come across this before, but the worst case you may have to go with a relay and use 2N7000 on the port pin to drive it.
If you need more on how, just do a search with 2n7000.
Was your previous router directly fed? no variable speed?
Al.

[wbegg]

Thanks Al for the quick response.

The relay is an SSR Opto22 model 120D25. Funny thing, I can plug in a load in parallel with the router such as a lamp, and routerworks fine, so I'm thinking it has to be a load issue. The "contacts" will not close if the output sees no load, or if nothing is plugged to the output side.

I have the control side directly coupled to an output pin on my Breakout Board (pin 14).

Right now I have a wall wart plugged in parallel as a work-around

[Al_The_Man]

That would indicate the initial load current of the router is too low, as I mentioned, probably because the router input is high impedance due to S.S. device on the input.
I know its redundant, but as a work around, you could stick a 120v relay on the SSR output and switch the router with that, it would save a power waster resistor.
Al.

[amishx64]

Originally Posted by Al_The_Man That would indicate the initial load current of the router is too low, as I mentioned, probably because the router input is high impedance due to S.S. device on the input. I know its redundant, but as a work around, you could stick a 120v relay on the SSR output and switch the router with that, it would save a power waster resistor. Al.

Or maybe try a small night light and bulb? Try 4 or 8 watts. That would be small enough not to be bothersome to leave lit at the same time as the router.

[wbegg]

I think I'll go with the small light thing, maybe with a red dome so I can see when the router is on, as I'm sure I'll be deaf eventually from all these power tools.

Thanks all.

10 fingers in ... 10 fingers out.

[Dean448]

I ran in to this same issue when powering a Porter cable 890 router. These routers have an electronic module that prevents them from running below a certian voltage. If you measure the voltage out of your solid state switch you might see about 15 volts. If you turn the switch on and then power the router off and on again it will run because the SSR has a load that eliminates that leakage voltage out of the SSR.

I guy at work who deals with these devices on power tools gave me a large capactor that I connected from the hot black leg to the neutral white leg. I don't think the exact capacitor is critical but the one he gave me measures 1 1/4" square by 1/2" and says 1uf 250 volts. It just adds a load and works great. I have a vacuum on the other output that powers on without the capacitor.

[amishx64]

Originally Posted by Dean448 I guy at work who deals with these devices on power tools gave me a large capactor that I connected from the hot black leg to the neutral white leg. I don't think the exact capacitor is critical but the one he gave me measures 1 1/4" square by 1/2" and says 1uf 250 volts. It just adds a load and works great. I have a vacuum on the other output that powers on without the capacitor.

Yea, the exact cap shouldn't be critical, but please don't pick one with a too low rated voltage! Otherwise.... BOOM!

[Al_The_Man]

If you use a capacitor it should be Continuous AC RATED also.
If not heat will destroy it.
Al.

[wbegg]

Dean, You da man!

I put in a 600V 0.1uF, and everything seems to be working properly. This should be quite enough for continuous ac (probably around 300V).

Thanks to everyone for your input. I'm off and cutting again!