Alum Angle

[Ursine]

I'm planning on a router based on the free plans. I've got limited power tools... saber saw, table saw, drill press and dremel.
What's the best way with limited tools to cut/mill the flats in the aluminum angle for the mounting bolts (see pict). Abrasive wheel on a Dremel comes to mind but they're pretty fragile.

Thanks,

Dave

[ger21]

Do you have a router? I used a router table. Cut a 45° dado in a piece of mdf (2-45° cuts on the table saw) to hold the angle, and slowly slide it over a straight router bit, taking a little off with each pass, using multiple passes. You could do the same thing with a table saw, moving it over 1/8" each time. Use a file to clean it up, if necessary.

[vladdy]

If you already have a drill press, either scrounge a used end mill, or grind off a drill bit flat on the bottom, and just feed the angle back and forth..easier with a vise with cross slide, but can be done by hand...wear gloves and be very careful.. cleanup with file later on ..
that way at least you get the same depth of cut using the drill press stop...
not the neatest [or safest], but first one that came to mind..
you could also strap the angle down and rotate the base plate on the drill press.. safer too...

[pyrojon]

How bout a file, all you need is a flat spot, not high precision.

[joecnc2006]

yes you just need a flat spot for the bolt heat to sit on, If you have a bench grinder just grind down the area then drill the hole at the correct distance.

[ignatz]

Why do you need a flat spot at all? The plans call for a hex head cap screw to pass through a flat washer and then through the bearing. The washer helps keep the bolt square to the bearing. The bearing mount is held to the router by the 2 screws and 2 dowels. I am in the process of building this router and I connected the bearings without grinding a flat spot at all... seems to work fine.

I tried using a dremel to cut the flat spots and didn't like the results. Instead, I put the angle in a vise so that it look like a V and step drill the holes in the angle. I posted 2 pics of my bearings in my build log if you want to have a look: http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showth...0088#post80088

[joecnc2006]

Originally Posted by ignatz Why do you need a flat spot at all? The plans call for a hex head cap screw to pass through a flat washer and then through the bearing. The washer helps keep the bolt square to the bearing. The bearing mount is held to the router by the 2 screws and 2 dowels. I am in the process of building this router and I connected the bearings without grinding a flat spot at all... seems to work fine. I tried using a dremel to cut the flat spots and didn't like the results. Instead, I put the angle in a vise so that it look like a V and step drill the holes in the angle. I posted 2 pics of my bearings in my build log if you want to have a look: http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showth...0088#post80088

You may run into trouble with the y and z axis because the rails will be closer to the angle iron because of the radius of the pipe, and the bolt head may stickup to much.

[Rance]

And yet another method. Make a holder so the angle points down (like a 'v') and then run it across your table saw. Multiple passes to get a wider area. A carbide blade should work on aluminum.

Rance

Yup, ya did. But it always looks better if it was MY idea.

[ger21]

Originally Posted by Rance And yet another method. Make a holder so the angle points down (like a 'v') and then run it across your table saw. Multiple passes to get a wider area. A carbide blade should work on aluminum. Rance

Maybe I wasn't clear enough, but that's what I already said.

[ignatz]

Originally Posted by joe2000che You may run into trouble with the y and z axis because the rails will be closer to the angle iron because of the radius of the pipe, and the bolt head may stickup to much.

You are absolutely correct. I built my X and Z axis last night and the bolt head does get in the way.