New Build - Aluminum Router Table - 2' x 4'

[wwendorf]

Hi Everyone,

I'm starting out on building my first cnc machine from scratch, so I figured that I would create a build log about it here. It will be a 2' x 4' router table, gantry style. The goal for this machine is to cut primarily wood. The main use will be 1/16th in hobby ply for use in RC Airplane kits. However, I ultimately still want it to be able to cut aluminum, so I'm trying to build with that goal in mind as well.

I'm planning on using a porter cable trim router for the woodworking spindle, but for metal, I have a Sherline head that I may try using. I may also build my own spindle assembly with an R8 taper in it, but that will be worked on after the wood router is built. One of my future wishes is to have a spot on the machine with a solid state pumping laser diode at 380mw so that I can do engraving on both metal and wood. I'm aiming for accuracy of +/- .001, but will be happy with +/- .003.

As I have a fair amount of aluminum in stock that is 3 1/2" wide x 1/2" thick, I am planning to use that, as well as some 1.25" wide x 1/2" thick material for a bit of structural bracing. I'm also planning on bolting the entire machine together.

I got rather lucky and picked up a fully functional Z axis with what I believe is a ball bearing precision ground lead screw on twin rails which cost me $35. It even came with a stepper motor with encoder (see pics), tho I may not wind up using that particular stepper motor.

I also found 2 - 25 3/8" thk linear slide rails for $15 each. I'm going to use those for my Y axis which the Z axis will ride upon.

I have also purchased some Glacern supported linear rails and ball bearing blocks for the X axis which are 30mm x 1250mm (a little over 49") long. I also purchased 4 bearing blocks which will support the gantry.

I have attached drawings done in alibre which show the layout for the gantry.

I have a Syil SX3 (converted to X4 electronics) which I will be machining the various parts and pieces of the router on. As I'm making some rather long pieces that will need drilling and tapping, I will be pushing the capabilities of my mill to the limit, but I think it will turn out well. I may use 80/20 extrusion for the table assembly, but I haven't decided on that one way or another yet.

I guess that's good for an introduction, so i'll close for now. If anyone has any suggestions on what i've drawn so far, I'm eager to hear from you.

Also, I'm looking for good suggestions for an electronics package and a good source for leadscrews and ball nuts. I've been considering the 405in/oz 3 axis kit from xylotec, but i'm just not sure yet. As far as lead screws, i'd really like to go with ball screws and precision ground or rolled leadscrews, but if I can find a good option with good accuracy, i'd also consider acme screws. I still think i'm going to be stuck with ball nuts tho in order to get the accuracy I want.

Thanks,
Wade

[DIYaholic]

wwendorf,
Looks like it will be a formidable machine!
I'm sure everyone is going to be anxious to see your machine come together (pic's, video & more pic's PLEASE)!
Good luck with your build!

Randy,

[wwendorf]

Thanks! I'm looking forward to this. It should be a real experience.

I've just finished adding in the rails and blocks. Here's a pic of the drawing thus far. Time for a break.

Wade

[Jesse B]

Looking pretty good so far. Good luck with your build

[wwendorf]

I guess i'm on a bit of a roll. So much for taking a break. LOL

Here's the next pic with the lower box assembly all put together.

Wade

[Jesse B]

Just a quick suggestion. I'd have 4 blocks on the Y-Axis rather than the 2 you have. Would add to stability, imo. Looks good otherwise.

[wwendorf]

Originally Posted by Jesse B Just a quick suggestion. I'd have 4 blocks on the Y-Axis rather than the 2 you have. Would add to stability, imo. Looks good otherwise.

Ideally I'd like to do that, but the rails I got only had 1 block per rail. I have an idea for adding stability if I do wind up needing it. I may also look around and see if I can find 2 more blocks to match the rails I have.

Wade

[Jesse B]

Originally Posted by wwendorf Ideally I'd like to do that, but the rails I got only had 1 block per rail. I have an idea for adding stability if I do wind up needing it. I may also look around and see if I can find 2 more blocks to match the rails I have. Wade

Shouldn't be too hard to find them. Staggering them may help as well, just so it's got a wider footprint.

[wwendorf]

You were right, I was able to find some additional bearing blocks. I got really lucky finding the blocks and rails for $15 each, because the blocks alone are $90 each! I think I may just stay with the 2 blocks for now. I can always add them later if I want to.

On another note, I received the rails and slides I'm going to use for the Y axis today. Dang! Those things are HEAVY!!! The rails alone are 20 lbs each. I've attached a few pics of the rails and slides. They are 30mm rails. That comes out to 1.18" or so. Somehow, I think the gantry will be nice and stable running on those rails.

For the lead screw, I'm vacillating between ball screws and acme screws. I really like the price of the acme screws and nuts better. I'll probably go for ball screws unless I can't afford them. I did find a place that actually reconditions old ballscrews and ball nuts, so I'm going to see if I can get some refurbed ones thru them for a reasonable cost. I've also got a few other surplus stores in the area that I may get lucky at.

On the X axis, I'm going to probably wind up putting the lead screw on the opposite side of the top rail from the linear rails. I've already got a nice little are cordoned off with the 1.25" x .5" aluminum bar on the back side of the gantry, and I won't have to worry about not having enough room between the rails for the lead screw and ball nut.

Wade

[wwendorf]

I haven't done much on this for the past couple days since I've been building and installing a power drawbar on my Syil X3. I'm looking for easier faster toolchanges. I was getting tired of the stupid wrench. It works, now just to hook up a switch. Eventually i'm going to have a tool table as well, but that's going to be a little while down the road too yet. Hopefully i'll get back to the router designing in a day or two.

I'm trying to figure out on the router how I want to support the lead screws, and what KIND of leadscrews I want to buy. I'm tempted to do ACME screws, just because they are cheap and i'm going to 405oz steppers geared at 3:1 to run them, but, my "overengineering" says go ball screws. I'm trying to the best pricing I can.

Wade

[Jesse B]

Originally Posted by wwendorf I haven't done much on this for the past couple days since I've been building and installing a power drawbar on my Syil X3. I'm looking for easier faster toolchanges. I was getting tired of the stupid wrench. It works, now just to hook up a switch. Eventually i'm going to have a tool table as well, but that's going to be a little while down the road too yet. Hopefully i'll get back to the router designing in a day or two. I'm trying to figure out on the router how I want to support the lead screws, and what KIND of leadscrews I want to buy. I'm tempted to do ACME screws, just because they are cheap and i'm going to 405oz steppers geared at 3:1 to run them, but, my "overengineering" says go ball screws. I'm trying to the best pricing I can. Wade

If you end up going with Acme screws, I'd recommend getting either a low TPI, or a multi-start screw. Looking great thus far though

[Riceburner98]

Are you going for 'about' 2ft x 4ft? Just thinking that with a 49" long rail and 2 sets of bearing blocks, it's not quite going to reach 48" travel unless 1 set of bearing blocks falls off the ends of the rails.. Same goes with the 25" rails reaching 24"...

As for electronics, I'd personally recommend *not* using the Xylotex drivers... Their motors are fine, but I at *least* doubled my performance by ditching the Xylotex driver board and using separate drivers. (I use 3 IMS483's from eBay, used to be found for $30 each on eBay) Lots of people use the Gecko G540 controller (the all-in-one thing with multiple drivers in one box) with good results. I popped several of the chips on the Xylotex board while doing stupid things on the mill. They're just not as robust as separate drivers, and the more voltage you can pump into the drivers the happier your motors will be. (50v for Gecko, 35v at the very most for Xylotex) Only down-sides I see to the Gecko G540 is the extra $100, and it only has 10-microstep mode..

Wish I had the room for a 2' x 4' router!!! Good luck!