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#1
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We currently use a 0.5" thick MDF sheet for the table top.... with 1/4" holes drilled every 1" for securing things. Our surface is 29 x 50. Bolting things to the table isn't always easy because the holes are not threaded and only holes accessible from underneath the table can be used. Ideally i'd like to replace it with t-slotted aluminum, but i'm not sure where to get it from. 80/20 has 2 x 0.5" extrusions that can be lined up to create a work surface table. k2cnc also sells some kind of t-slotted table, although it's about 2 times more expensive. Another option is to get a flat sheet of aluminum... maybe 1/4" thick, drill it every 1" and thread every hole. Of course the clamping possibilities are not going to be as good as t-slotted table. Are there any other alternatives? How do those of you who have aluminum (t-slotted or drilled) table tops protect it from being damaged when entire thickness of material must be routed through? Do you put a piece of wood underneath of your parts? |
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#3
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| Menatep, Checkout grizzly.com they stock several different lengths. http://grizzly.com/products/36-Alumi...ot-Track/H0878 Jeff...
__________________ Patience and perseverance have a magical effect before which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish. |
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#4
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| Hello, There are threaded inserts that could be installed into the MDF to replace the current holes and provide threaded mounting holes. I don't know the cost involved and if you need a new table top it may be time to upgrade anyway. I have 1/4 - 20 threaded holes on a 2" square pattern on my small CNC router work table but it is made of .375" steel and I am used to using a similar clamping set up with single stroke punch presses so I find it plenty useful. Granted that a slotted table probably offers more unlimited clamping but there are not many set ups that require all of those possibilities. Regards,
__________________ Regards, Wes |
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#6
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| Right now we are just in the experimental stage testing out cutting tools, feed rates, and clamping solutions. after we'll be carving wood (mostly pine), high density foam, and aluminum. Lessons learned so far: spiral bits are great and double sided tape doesn't hold big wood pieces in place very well. ![]() How about not damaging the surface work table? any recommendations? |
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#7
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#8
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| I'm the guy using the 1/2" 2012 80/20 profile for his t-slot table. Works great. Hardest part is cutting out a joiner plate. My table is 18"x36". Was $110 USD to purchase. The profile has two holes in the end of the profile that are easily tapped to 10-32 threads, allowing you to attach them to the joining plate. 80/20.net have a profile DXF that you can use to create your joiner plate drawing. I'll be cutting out another pair (used 1/8" AL for the first, now I'll be using 1/4"). It takes some work, but as you discovered, it's way cheaper than K2's solution. |
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#9
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| Attached is a DXF with my drawings. The top is the 2012 profile itself. The next one down is a single link to link two of the profiles via their end faces. The third is a joiner to join 9 of them, which is what I needed for my 18" wide table. The fourthe is the same as the third, but with a little extra material on the bottom, as I anticipated it to be weak otherwise. Have at it! THe 1/2" 2012 profile will be much more sturdy than 1/4" aluminum plate, and much more conventient to clamp (less risk from stripping threads, no need for access underneath table for nuts, etc). -Mark |
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