Working on Design - Looking for Input

[Jesse B]

I'm finally working on a design that should give me what I'm looking for! But, being as new to this as I am, I'm looking for some input. Be honest, you won't hurt my feelings . Also, I'm not very good at CAD, so I don't wanna hear about that

Anyways, I'll quickly explain the machine and the images:

The first image is just of the whole machine. Pretty self explanatory. I know that the uprights on the side of the gantry need to be changed a bit so that it's somewhat centered over the pillow blocks, but I'm not worried about that right now.


The next image is just the base of the router. This design uses steel tube for the main frame. The motor will be pretty much mounted right to the frame for the x-axis; I'll have to make some sort of access hole in order to attach the coupler, but that's fine. The lead screw will either be 1/2-10 or 3/8-16, haven't decided yet. 16mm supported rails are on the sides, with 2 open pillow blocks for each. Each set of pillow blocks will be connected below; I'll need to find some system of legs to hold the machine up, but again, not too worried about that right now. The lead nut is just attached to a piece of 2"x2" angle stock.

Third image is the router without the Z-Axis, just to show the Y-axis. Same deal as the X; 16mm supported rails, 2 pillow blocks per rail. Not sure on the placement of the lead nut, I just kind of threw it in there. Lead screw choices will be the same as the X-Axis.


Fourth image is the Y and Z Axes. Pretty self explanatory.


Fifth image is just the Z-Axis. This is the part of the machine I'm least sure about. I'm not sure if supported rails will be necessary or not, but I just used them as they'd be more difficult to implement than their unsupported counterparts. Lead screw will be 3/8-16 for added resolution; rapids don't really matter on Z, as the travel is quite short. Just one pillow block per rail is being used. Also, should I have the motor mounted how it is there, or flip it upside down, bring it backwards, and use pulleys/belts? I feel that help act as a type of counterweight, and make the machine shorter.


Anyways, that's it. I'd love to hear some feedback on this design so far.

Thanks for taking the time to read all this,


- Jesse

[stangtjk]

If you put IMG tags around those links the pictures will show up without having to click on them for example [IMG]link to image[/IMG].
The one thing I would change is the y-axis. With it laid down like that there will be a higher moment of force from the router than if it were turned up on its side. Other than that I think it looks pretty good.

[Jesse B]

Originally Posted by stangtjk If you put IMG tags around those links the pictures will show up without having to click on them for example [IMG]link to image[/IMG].

Yeah I know, I just thought I'd keep the clutter down *shrugs*. Fixed that.

Originally Posted by stangtjk The one thing I would change is the y-axis. With it laid down like that there will be a higher moment of force from the router than if it were turned up on its side. Other than that I think it looks pretty good.

I just wasn't sure about that one. I've seen both styles used, and this one seemed easier to implement. What kind of detrimental effects would it have, just curious.


- Jesse

[stangtjk]

That piece of angle that you have shown connecting the y and z will be taking all the moment due to the cutting forces which may cause excessive deflection. If your y axis were turned on its side and the z axis bolted to that black plate the moment would be better distributed on each of your rails.

If you're using photobucket you can make those images clickable thumbnails as well if you don't like them taking up so much space. If you don't see the option you can click "link options" under the first picture in your album and check "clickable thumbnails" under "IMG for bulletin boards and forums"

[Jesse B]

Originally Posted by stangtjk If you're using photobucket you can make those images clickable thumbnails as well if you don't like them taking up so much space.

Thanks, did that

Originally Posted by stangtjk That piece of angle that you have shown connecting the y and z will be taking all the moment due to the cutting forces which may cause excessive deflection. If your y axis were turned on its side and the z axis bolted to that black plate the moment would be better distributed on each of your rails.

Alright, that makes sense. I'll go see what I can manage and post my results.

Thanks,


- Jesse

[Jesse B]

Better?


- Jesse

[stangtjk]

Yep, That's how I'd do it.

[Jesse B]

Originally Posted by stangtjk Yep, That's how I'd do it.

Thanks!


- Jesse

[DIYaholic]

Jesse B,
Looks pretty solid. You mentioned steel tube for the main frame. What materials are you using for the gantry uprights and gantry beam? Also, what final cutting area are you shooting for?

Randy,

[Jesse B]

Originally Posted by DIYaholic Jesse B, Looks pretty solid. You mentioned steel tube for the main frame. What materials are you using for the gantry uprights and gantry beam? Also, what final cutting area are you shooting for? Randy,

Should have mentioned that!

I kind of attempted to color code things, so I'll just say what color corresponds to what! The dark gray will be be steel (ex. the base). The lighter gray will be aluminum (what most of the machine is made out of). The white and black are plastic.

All materials are subject to change depending on the part.

Cutting area will be about 12" x 8" most likely. It could be +/- up to 2 inches though, I haven't actually checked in the design yet, I just wanted to get everything right first.

- Jesse

EDIT: I checked real quick, just for you . X-Axis has approximately 10.75" of travel; Y-Axis has approximately 7.75" of travel; Z-Axis has approximately 3.75" of travel.

[DIYaholic]

I am a curious one. What thickness for the aluminum plate, 3/8?
Besides machine upgrades, what else do you plan on cutting with your machine?

Randy,

[Jesse B]

Originally Posted by DIYaholic I am a curious one. What thickness for the aluminum plate, 3/8? Besides machine upgrades, what else do you plan on cutting with your machine? Randy,

I used 1/2" for most of it, although there are some parts that are 3/8". I was wondering if 3/8" would be adequate? I just felt like making it as beefy as possible, but I'll gladly spend less money for thinner material if it will suffice

Obviously I will be making the odd machine upgrade as you mentioned. I plan on milling a lot of PCB's, as I've been getting into electronics and whatnot lately, and that's pretty much what this machine was designed around. Besides that, I'll just be doing whatever; I have lots of friends who are big into hobby grade RC's, so I'll be making parts for them, probably out of plastic. I'd like to be able to do aluminum (small passes) as well. That's what I'm hoping for at least


- Jesse