First machine

[wriley]

This isn't much, just a pile of hardware, but you have to start somewhere.

I am going to build a 2' x 4' CNC router based on the http://buildyourcnc.com/ design. The plan is to cut wood, acrylic and possibly very thin (25 and 50 mil) aluminum. At the very least it will be a learning experience and I can cut parts for the inevitable next machine.

More to come.

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[mactec54]

Hi Wriley

It might just look like hardware to some, but wondrous things can be made from it.

[Hdale85]

Is that aluminum angle? If so and you are using it for the linear bearings you may want to grab some steel angle as I believe the aluminum wears down rather easily. Maybe I'm wrong though.

[wriley]

Is that aluminum angle? If so and you are using it for the linear bearings you may want to grab some steel angle as I believe the aluminum wears down rather easily. Maybe I'm wrong though.

Yes, it is aluminum angle for the bearings. I have not heard of any wear problems but will look into it, thanks.

[Hdale85]

It's just that it's quite a bit softer then the steel variants. Good luck with he build though!

[alt.don]

Aluminum for the bearings should be fine. If you're using the aluminum for the rails then you might run into a problem with wear.

Are you planning on using Acme screws or hardware store threaded rod?

[wriley]

Aluminum for the bearings should be fine. If you're using the aluminum for the rails then you might run into a problem with wear.

This machine won't be used for day to day, full time production but I will definitely keep an eye on the rail wear.

Are you planning on using Acme screws or hardware store threaded rod?

For starters I am going with threaded rod. I want to get up and going cheap and then I can upgrade or build a new machine on down the road. 1/4-20 seems too flimsy so I am going to look at some of the bigger rod.

[mactec54]

Hi wriley

I saw the bearings that he is using do not use that type ending in ZZ you want to have the same bearing # but ending in 2RS

ZZ are only shielded, 2RS are rubber shielded/sealed & will keep the dust out better

[Hdale85]

Wouldn't threaded rod have issues with binding and what not. Generally ball screws are used.

[FandZ]

mactec54, thanks for the info on the bearings. I assumed the rubber bearings were inferior to the steel shielded ones.


1/2 10 ACME rods can be had for 9$ per 6ft.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...PARTPG=INLMK32

You can also get the bolts for 1.69 each.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT

I know people somehow use the bolts and a thrust bearing or two get near or 0 backlash instead of useing a derlin nut. I'm just not sure how the configuration is done. I went with a derlin nut myself. But my point is, it's cheap and something you could move to your next machine. Plus the speeds you'll get from 1/4 20 will be horrible. Just saying, it's cheap and superior.

I'm running my X axis on aluminum. There is an obvious track where the bearing rolls but wear doesn't seem to be much of an issue. No Idea on how long they will last but I'm sure it's over a hundred hours of use. You'll just need to watch for swarf getting between your bearing and your rail. The aluminum will deform before the steel bearing does.

Anyways looking forward to your build.

[wriley]

Thank you for the info mactec and FandZ, that is very helpful.

[wriley]

Small update, my bearings have arrived so this week I hope to get started on the linear guides.

[wriley]

Well, based on a lot of forum reading I have decided to build a jgro router instead. Last night I cut the aluminum angle and drilled holes for all 3 pairs of linear guides. As soon as I get some 1-1/4" 5/16 bolts I will attach the bearings and have my first completed assemblies.

[wriley]

Tonight I finished the linear guides. some of the notches turned out ugly but I think they will hold OK.

I made another Lowe's stop on the way home from work to get gas pipe and enough MDF for the rest of the build. This weekend I hope to have time to get started on some of the structure.

[wriley]

Here is a quick progress report.

Tonight I got nearly all of the adjustment blocks cut and drilled and you can see the aftermath in #1 and #2. Note that I used HDPE for the blocks instead of MDF and there is a spade bit somewhere under all that plastic in #1. Picture #3 show what to me seems like a pitiful amount of pieces to show for the mounds of MDF, aluminum and HDPE chips in my garage. Pictures #4 and #5 show the x-axis nearly completed.

It is slow going with all these little pieces that have multiple size holes all over them. This thing should start taking shape once I get a few more large pieces cut out.

[wrnchbndr]

Another newbie here...
I saw the linear bearings at the same website and was blown away by the design and its economy. I've built a number of tools using linear bearings and unless you score well on used rails and bearings the cost is prohibative and you're also stuck with designing around the junk you have acquired. I don't see that wear should be a problem as long as your rollers are well aligned. I do see an issue with the angle being exposed to debris and the rollers running over dust. I believe that a small well aimed stream of air in front of the roller(s) is needed to keep the roller running on a clean surface and that this is very easy to incorporate using nothing more than aquarium tubing and a homemade brass nozzle. I have used hardware store threaded rod to drive a single axis carriage and my drive coupler was made by using a product called "Friendly Plastic" sold by one of my luthery suppliers Stewart McDonald. This is a product that comes in the form of BB sized plastic beads. When heated in water, the beads go soft and you can hand mold this plastic to any shape you want. When it cools to room temp, it is very hard and can be repeatedly used over and over again. If you form it over threaded rod with a coating of vegatable oil on the rod, you end up with a nut of any length you want and any exterior shape. Lubricated and limited to speed of rotation, I cant see it wearing out and the resulting accuracy is far better than you'd get with an off-the-shelf item from Lowes with the benefit of the exterior shape meeting your need. You could also capture a pair of steel nuts within the molded piece.

[wriley]

In spite of having the flu over the weekend I have all of the MDF pieces cut. Now all that remains is a lot more drilling and assembly. I didn't get any pictures taken but I have the z axis assembled and have started on the bed support.

@wrnchbndr
I think with a proper dust collector setup the debris on the rails should be very minimal. If it becomes a problem I will keep your suggestion in mind. Thanks!

[wriley]

This project is not dead, just on hold until it gets warmer in my garage. Before winter completely set in I completed the bed support and cut all the MDF for the base support. When spring hits I have a lot of drilling, tapping and assembling to do. I can hardly wait to made the dust fly.

[DIYaholic]

wriley,
Did you get a chance to put a sealer on the MDF prior to putting your build into a long winter's hibernation? I mention this because MDF tends to swell with humidity. If you have not already done so, you may want to find a way to do this prior to warmer, moister air settling in. Just a suggestion. Please remember, we all like to see pictures, video and even more pictures.
Good luck with the rest of your build.

Randy,

[wriley]

I have not yet sealed the parts but will do so before the hot muggy days of St Louis summer. Thanks for the tip.