DIY Z axis 0 plate. It works perfect!

[tjstraz]

Has anyone set this up with a Soundlogic Mach 2 Breakout board?

I am interested in how it is attached to the input on the board and what settings they are using in Mach 2?

[Beezer]

I would like to add a Z -axis touch probe to my router but I am abit confused how to do it properly. Ok... I am alot confused. LOL

The way my system is setup now I am using all 'NC' micro-switches for the homing of my axises and wired up in parallel according to the diagram found on the Xylotex website. Each switch is connected to it's own input pin on the parallel port. I want to keep my Z- Axis home switch at the top of the axis the way it is since I like to use the "Home All" feature in Mach2, so I can't connect to that circuit for the touch probe. At least I don't see how it would work if I did. I also like to zero my tools from the top of the stock so I was planning to just use a piece of flat aluminum stock .100" thick with a wire lead attached to it. Now I do have one input pin left on my parallel port which I was originally going to use for a A-Axis home switch but I doubt I will need a home switch on my rotary axis, so I could use this last input pin for a touch probe.
The question is how do I go about connecting it properly and setting up Mach2 to know what to do when it gets a signal? I'm guessing it would need to be set as if I was using a 'NO' switch but are there any other setting I need to set in Mach2 for me to be able to use some of the macro scripts I have seen posted, such as the digitize setting? I have already created a button in Mach2 for activating a "Z -Touch Probe" sequence and I used the macro that "termite" posted. The Z -axis goes down slowly as it should but without a proper circuit for the probe it will not do what it is suppose to.

So basically what I want to be able to do is click a button on the Mach2 screen that triggers the Z to move down slowly till the cutter comes into contact with the aluminum touch plate. Once contact has been made Mach2 resets the Z - axis DRO to +.100 or +.101 then moves back up a set distance, say 3 inches. But most important I would still like to tell my Z-axis to go home and it moves up to the home switch.

Is it possible or am I asking too much? If it is possible how do I go about doing it? I have no programing experience so I don't know how to create my own macros.

Thanks in advance for any advise.

Carl

[Beezer]

Well I have finally gotten it to work properly. I ended up using the spare LPT input pin that I was saving for the A-axis home switch. I just ran a long enough wire from the +5V end of that circuit to the aluminum touch plate. I then went into- Mach2 - "Config" > "Ports and Pins" > "Input Signals" and turned on 'digitize. Clicked on Apply.
Then went into the "Input Pins" tab, set 'Digitize/Skip' to Active Low and entered the corresponding pin number. Clicked on Apply.

To double check the plate was triggering properly I went into the "Diagnostics" screen. When I touch the aluminum plate to the end of the cutter the Digitize led came on.

Now when I click the "Z - Touch Probe" button I created in Mach2, the Z axis moves down slowly till the tool touches the plate, resets the Z- DRO to (+.100) then rapids back up 2". I am using the same macro that "termite" posted earlier except with a few value changes. It really works nicely. Thanks termite.


Carl

[pen25]

how bout machining a corner plate to home all.. this will also allow you to set the matierial location as well.

[Beezer]

In post #38 marvinstov did that for his machine.

The only issue I see with that is going to depend on the cutter you are using.
Cutters like router bits tend to have their flutes straight up and down so you would have to make sure that your cutter is rotated at the correct position so the furtherst most point of the cutting edge is what touches your corner plate first. Four flute endmills have more more cutting edges so you have a better chance that one of the edges is going to line up properly. The easiest solution to this is to use a piece of 1/4" diam. ground drill rod in the router instead of a cutter. Probe to the corner locations of your stock, set your offsets then install your cutter then probe down to set the Z to the bottom of your cutter. Abit more time consuming but more accurate. I know most of the time I will be cutting something completely out of a piece of material so having the exact edges of my material is not important. I can set the tool to the corner by eye and that will be good enough.

[Torsten]

krsykes my z reference 0 is at the top of my z axis. I use the posted script that Art of the Mach2 fame and Jim Cullins of the Campbell breakout board fame.....well they're famous to me, help me to refine.

code "g31 z-10 f50" ++++this lowers the z head+++++


While IsMoving() +++if memory is correct don't do anything else while the first move is taking place++++


Wend ++++this ends the first move++++


code "G92 Z0" ++++this sets the switch position at 0+++



code "G0Z3" ++++this moves the z up 3"+++++

While IsMoving() +++again don't do anything while doing the above command+++++

Wend +++again ends above command+++


code "g92z0" +++sets the z axis to 0 once again and this happens to be 1.451" above the centerline of my a axis. I could move it up by as little as I want or till I hit the upper limit again.

Just wondering why not set it to "G92 Z-3." instead of "G92 Z0" the first
time it hits.
This would be shorter and you would not have to reset this again later.
To move 3." up you could then tell it to "G0 Z0" and be done with it.

[pen25]

In post #38 marvinstov did that for his machine.

The only issue I see with that is going to depend on the cutter you are using.
Cutters like router bits tend to have their flutes straight up and down so you would have to make sure that your cutter is rotated at the correct position so the furtherst most point of the cutting edge is what touches your corner plate first. Four flute endmills have more more cutting edges so you have a better chance that one of the edges is going to line up properly. The easiest solution to this is to use a piece of 1/4" diam. ground drill rod in the router instead of a cutter. Probe to the corner locations of your stock, set your offsets then install your cutter then probe down to set the Z to the bottom of your cutter. Abit more time consuming but more accurate. I know most of the time I will be cutting something completely out of a piece of material so having the exact edges of my material is not important. I can set the tool to the corner by eye and that will be good enough.

how bout a set up rings made from say brass??

[vcooney]

I cannot view you attached file...why is that? I'm new to CNC Zone and I can't figure out why I cannot view attached thumbnails.

Vince

[Goose80]

Any idea guys if that will work with PMDX-122 Braking board?
Manual is here: http://www.pmdx.com/PMDX-122/PMDX-122_Manual_15.pdf

My router is under construction, but I am using 4 stepper motors 8,5Nm 6A, (2 for X)and PMDX-122 breakingboard.

I am going to use mach2/3 or turbocnc.


Thank you for any help

[vacpress]

This is neat. If I ever get a working machine together, this is a must.


Vince - you probably havent setup your email address? You need to follow the registration email they send you.

[wjfiles]

In Mach3, can the z axis be homed independently to the x & y.

[mar999]

it works great >>>>>>>>>>so easy thank you

[Sam A]

What a great solution to a pain in the a%% problem.

I built one of these and installed it on my CNC router.

I have a WinCNC controller and software.

I created a SETZ G code file that includes the following two lines.

G31 Z-300 f100
G92 Z9.835

The file aborts do to hitting the limit plate and never runs line two.

Help?

I have emailed both WinCNC and PracticalCNC and have not received a reply yet.

Thanks in advance.

Sam

[balsaman]

It needs to be connected to the z - home input, not the z - limit input.

Eric

[Sam A]

It needs to be connected to the z - home input, not the z - limit input.

Eric

Eric,

I meant to say home input. I am still having trouble with the software seting the Z to odd values after the file runs.

Still can't seem to make it work correctly.

Sam

[trevis1st]

On a Wincnc machine

Make a plate attach a wire.
Plug into the Z - home input.

L91 G1 Z-5 F10 M28
L28 Z0.125
G0 Z2

I haven't tried this yet. I just want to make sure I'm not missing something.

[Sam A]

I created the following g-code for setting zero. My machine is set to metric. These numbers need to be divided by 25.4 if you are set to inches.

Z-300 f100 m28 g31
G0 z25
Z-300 f20 m28 g31
G92 Z10
G0 z30
l92

This works with a 10 mm piece of aluminum plate.

It z's down, touches, goes up, z's down touches sets z to 10 mm and then move z up to 30 mm.

I have since lost my 'z' limit channel on my controller, and need to move it. Just been to busy with other projects.

Sam

[trevis1st]

Thanks Sam

By the way did you put a resistor and or diode on the line?

[Sam A]

No just picked up the 5 v Z + and Z-.

Put plus on plate, put the plate in the plastic wire cage to keep it from not grounding when I didn't need it.

Grounded Z- to plate that held the router. When the bit touched the Z+ plate circuit was closed and stopped downward motion.

You might have to toggle your Z on or off in the ini file to get it to work correctly.

Does anyone know how to find an extra channel to move my Z to?

Sam

[trevis1st]

I wonder if a auxinc#P#B# in the wincnc.ini would work for the 0-plate