CNC router build

**KH0UJ** · 12-09-2017, 05:03 PM

Ohh sorry I forgot to remind you that buying a chinese machine is like a gamble, but if you are capable of fixing / modifiying it then I guess it`s all right, this the 8 shipment of machines in the shop, as you can see I really dont care about the warranty hehehe, right out in the box I cut everything I dont need, modify the electrical system and all the culprits on the chinese machines, it`s cheap but risky to those who dont want to modify

**handlewanker** · 12-09-2017, 10:07 PM

There are machines and machines.....you can't pass a judgment on all from just one bad machine from any source........you also mainly get what you pay for.

Anyone who buys a machine knowing it has to be modified to make it work is a fool with money to burn.......at the same time, some people expect a cheap priced machine to perform like a thoroughbred.

The Chinese are experts at pricing their products down to a price because they know that's what drives their customers........quality is a late comer to the party......but even then you couldn't build a machine to the same design as a Chinese one for the price.
Ian.

ericks · 12-10-2017, 12:22 AM

We all have to start somewhere, i am not sorry i bought the 6040....but its time now to move on

**skrubol** · 12-11-2017, 03:06 PM

Originally Posted by KH0UJ

Buy this instead

Aluminum 0.5-0.8mm depth cut on a 1/4 shank 2 flute carbide bit (for wood) guaranteed, 4000 FRO, doubled the speed on your current set-up, built in pump for coolant (Metal cutting constant temperature), I really envy this machine in the shop, been saving money to buy my own like this, (sold my 2 motorcycles already) more stronger because the table itself is the one moving (X,Y), ordered mine for just $1100, less maintenance on the ball screws because it`s hidden underneath, cuts aluminum like a piece of cake, steel? no problem (0.4mm) shipping cost a bit higher because it`s a 70Kg. machine. I cant wait to have my own

That machine looks to have most of the drawbacks of both a router and a mill with few of the benefits. It's got the short Y and fairly short X and cantilevered design of a mill, along with the limited Z clearance and light aluminum build of a router.

**KH0UJ** · 12-12-2017, 12:18 AM

Originally Posted by skrubol

That machine looks to have most of the drawbacks of both a router and a mill with few of the benefits. It's got the short Y and fairly short X and cantilevered design of a mill, along with the limited Z clearance and light aluminum build of a router.

Well it`s overall design beats our 6040 and 6090 units in terms of Z height, rigidity on the table, faster FRO, and most specially the coolant recirculator bin built in on the unit itself, the material being cut is cold from start to finish (No metal expansion) the only advantage on the 6040 is the wider and larger table, for metal cutting / molding / engraving this thing kicks ass, for the price, it increased our production rate on aluminum / steel products. no need to worry about the ball screws catching saw dusts and metal chips and getting stuck. you can put grease as a lubricant on the ball screws to maintain it`s optimum lubrication, you do that on a 6040 and you`ll get a stuck mechanism in the middle of the program code and will result to a broken tool bit or a damaged work piece due to offsetting while the CNC is moving.

CNC 6040 (2000 FRO) = $1400
This unit (4000 FRO) = $1100

**handlewanker** · 12-12-2017, 02:10 AM

Originally Posted by KH0UJ

Buy this instead

Aluminum 0.5-0.8mm depth cut on a 1/4 shank 2 flute carbide bit (for wood) guaranteed, 4000 FRO, doubled the speed on your current set-up, built in pump for coolant (Metal cutting constant temperature), I really envy this machine in the shop, been saving money to buy my own like this, (sold my 2 motorcycles already) more stronger because the table itself is the one moving (X,Y), ordered mine for just $1100, less maintenance on the ball screws because it`s hidden underneath, cuts aluminum like a piece of cake, steel? no problem (0.4mm) shipping cost a bit higher because it`s a 70Kg. machine. I cant wait to have my own

Hmmmm.....a cantilevered column mill design.....what will they think of next.

I can't see that machine cutting steel to any degree with a water cooled spindle and an extruded aluminium table too.....definitely not for steel.

I think the design would work better if there was a second fixed/main column and the short Z axis column turned 90 degrees between the two columns.....

LOL.....then you would have a cantilevered column moving table router but with the table moving in 2 directions......with a different spindle I think that would mill steel.
Ian.

**KH0UJ** · 12-12-2017, 03:32 AM

Yep I think a 12K RPM spindle would allow me to use HSS multi flute bits, the structure itself had thick steel reinforcements inside that`s why it weighed more than our 6040 even though it`s only a 3020 table.

There`s an additional feature on this unit, it can function like a manual mill (without codes) just push button arrows (XYZ) without using any computer, kinda cool feature if you just wanna reface something or a quick touch up on any machined product

ericks · 01-21-2018, 04:19 AM

Originally Posted by wizard

A lawyer wouldnt hurt either. A good lawyer would be able to explain yiur risks and liabilitues. Generally if you want to sell a product or service you need some sort of corporate protection and some good insurance.

The unfortunate reality is that you can be found liable for all sorts of stupid people tricks. As such you need the legal protection and reasonable insurance coverage.

You are correct.....i will look into it properly before making any plans. It's so frustrating stopping the build. And it looks like our local council's dragging their feet with the shed approval, currently they have not invoiced me so that means they have not even looked at my application. Latest update is that i had to remove part of the fence between us and the neighbor to get the machine stand out. Managed to move it to the new house without any issues

ericks · 01-22-2018, 06:31 PM

Ordered the main power supply...

ericks · 02-16-2018, 05:04 AM

Hi, i really need some advise regarding a spindle motor. When i planned my control panel i made provision for a 0.75kW - 1.5kW Delta drive. At the time i thought that i would not go larger than a 1.5kW spindle. However i have tried to find a 1.5kW Teknomotor and it seems that suppliers don't sell this size due to the fact that there isn't much difference in price between 1.5kW and 1.8-2.0kW motors.

My question....would it be wise to go smaller and settle on a 0.75kW motor??
My machine will be very rigid.....would i limit the machine's potential by using a 0.75kW spindle motor??

Thanks
Erick

**skrubol** · 02-16-2018, 10:13 AM

Originally Posted by ericks

My machine will be very rigid.....would i limit the machine's potential by using a 0.75kW spindle motor??

Could you refresh us on what you're currently planning for your machine? I know you mentioned you wanted to cut wood through aluminum, but what sort of dimensions are you looking at for the router and what are you planning to use for framing?
Real .75kw should give you 2-3 cubic inches/min (32-48 cm3) MRR in aluminum. Should have enough torque to run up to 1/4" tools ok, especially if you're looking at 12krpm spindles. You'll definitely need to do shallow step downs (2-3mm max for slotting,) or use HSM style toolpaths though.
It looks like the Teknomotor spindles even down to .75kw take ER20 collets. Running anything bigger than 1/4" in aluminum probably won't go well with the .75kw, whereas 3/8" (8-10mm) tool should be quite usable in a 1.5-2kw spindle.

ericks · 02-16-2018, 01:54 PM

Originally Posted by skrubol

Could you refresh us on what you're currently planning for your machine? I know you mentioned you wanted to cut wood through aluminum, but what sort of dimensions are you looking at for the router and what are you planning to use for framing?
Real .75kw should give you 2-3 cubic inches/min (32-48 cm3) MRR in aluminum. Should have enough torque to run up to 1/4" tools ok, especially if you're looking at 12krpm spindles. You'll definitely need to do shallow step downs (2-3mm max for slotting,) or use HSM style toolpaths though.
It looks like the Teknomotor spindles even down to .75kw take ER20 collets. Running anything bigger than 1/4" in aluminum probably won't go well with the .75kw, whereas 3/8" (8-10mm) tool should be quite usable in a 1.5-2kw spindle.

Thanks.... This info is just what i needed. The frame is 160 x 80 heavy duty aluminium extrusion.

ericks · 04-04-2018, 07:31 AM

Finally the shed is up, concrete done....only the electrical to be completed. Almost time to resume the cnc build. I will most likely start by making another steel stand/table. Funds are limited atm so i will do a bit of work on the control panel, machine the frame extrusions and assemble

**handlewanker** · 04-04-2018, 01:21 PM

Hi.....the Easter bunny was busy in your quarter no doubt.

With hindsight, one thing I should have done years ago would be to coat the floor of my garage workshop with epoxy sealer before any items went into it.......my neighbours carport was done like that with a grey epoxy coating.
Ian.

ericks · 04-04-2018, 01:54 PM

Originally Posted by handlewanker

Hi.....the Easter bunny was busy in your quarter no doubt.

With hindsight, one thing I should have done years ago would be to coat the floor of my garage workshop with epoxy sealer before any items went into it.......my neighbours carport was done like that with a grey epoxy coating.
Ian.

Hi Ian, we been busy since December renovating. The plan is to install some sort of coating after we come back from holiday end of May. Meantime i have to get all my stored stuff out of the garage into the shed.

**wizard** · 04-04-2018, 09:37 PM

Originally Posted by ericks

Hi Ian, we been busy since December renovating. The plan is to install some sort of coating after we come back from holiday end of May. Meantime i have to get all my stored stuff out of the garage into the shed.

IAN's point is a very good one, my shop is currently in a cellar and I really wish that I had laid down an epoxy floor coating before I started to move stuff in!!!!!!!!!! Unfortunately at the time money was an issue so I'm left with doing it piecemeal and with a lot of effort to move everything around.

**handlewanker** · 04-05-2018, 12:04 AM

Well Wiz....better late than never......it doesn't really need to be a continuous waterproof membrane type of finish just as long as it coats the cement floor you won't get all that dust from abrasion etc. and makes clean up so easy.

I believe it has to go down on a completely clean and dry floor.....that is, no oil or wet patches or it lifts up and peals off.
Ian.

ericks · 04-05-2018, 06:42 AM

I wanted to at least seal the floor before moving stuff in but they said i can only seal the concrete after 30 days....just have to be careful not to spill anything on it meantime and then just take everything out again when i am ready to paint.