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Thread: Steel / aluminum CNC router design

  1. #13
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    Default Re: Steel / aluminum CNC router design

    Quote Originally Posted by Reinier View Post
    That`s a very nice looking machine!
    I am a little confused as to the comment you make. I assume it is the same comment as the first one from Wizard, and then the 'problematic' axis is what I thought people normally refer to as the X-axis (the two rails that sit on the gantry itself), not the Y-axis. Is that what you meant?
    For now, that is at least what I have modified.
    I have modified the design to something that is indeed much simpler. I originally chose the design I used to minimize the distance from the spindle centre to the bearings on the Y-axis to minimize the torsional moment on the gantry. With this new design, this distance is a little larger, but it is a much simpler construction. I do have to look into a way to fasten the bolts for the rail carriages, because they are now interfering. Since it is only a rough design, I will look into it when making the final design.
    Attachment 359218

    On the flowdrilling: it is indeed a very nice proces, but I now realized I cannot use it here. I will be leveling the rails on a slab of self-leveling epoxy, and that will melt / burn of when flowdrilling afterwards. I think it will be a bad idea to flowdrill the holes before laying the epoxy.
    I agree with you all that 3 mm is actually too thin to tap nice M6 threads, but I do not want to change to larger wall thicknesses of the main beams (my supplier sells 100 * 100 * 5 also, but it is more than 4 times the price of the 100 * 100 * 3....) Instead, I think I will weld in pieces of steel bar of e.g. 20 mm dia and 10 mm length at the bolt locations, see example below.
    Attachment 359220
    I think this current version is better. I believe the best configuration is for the ballscrew to be as close to the same plane as the linear rails as possible, which would minimize any bending forces on the screw; so in my estimation it is a stiffer configuration. I also believe it would be better to move the lower bearing blocks on the Z carriage as low as possible, even if it meant lengthening the Z carriage plate and rails somewhat.



  2. #14
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    Default Re: Steel / aluminum CNC router design

    Well, it has been some time since my last post about my new machine build, so it is about time for an update

    I was able to get some very nice blasted steel beams of 100 * 100 * 3 mm for a nice price, so I didn`t hesitate long for that. The big advantage of the blasted steel is that I do not need to grind the mill scale of before being able to TIG weld on it. It worked like a charm!

    I have completed most of the welding on the frame, and am now working on getting the ballscrews mounted. I will show some pictures of the process and current state of the machine. My workshop is fairly small, so it tends to get a bit messy when I am working there, please ignore that in the pictures

    The picture below shows the anti-torsion plates that I have added to the longitudinal beams and gantry. I also added these in the lower longitudinal beams exactly below positions of the vertical beams and legs to stiffen the frame. I have welded them on a steel shaft to slide them into the beam, and then welded the plates to the beam from the outside through 8 holes that I drilled in the beams. You can also see slots in the plates on the right sides that will hold the flatbar in which the screws for the linear rails will be tapped.
    Steel / aluminum CNC router design-cnc1-jpg

    Here are 2 pictures of the base of the machine without the gantry present.
    The casters on the legs are only temporary, they help me a lot to access all sides of the machine for welding etc
    The legs are bolted onto the base, as are the bracings so that I can take it apart. (my workshop is on the 'attic' of the former garage, and otherwise I would not ever be able to get the machine out of there). Furthermore the leg-part of the machine can also be taken apart into 2 pieces, so that it will fit through the stairway.
    Steel / aluminum CNC router design-cnc2-jpg

    Below you can clearly see the 'spot'welds that fix the anti-torsion plates in the beams. Furthermore, the welds from the flatbar on the inside of the longitudinal beams can be seen. I will tap threads through the beams into these flatbars to hold the bolts for the linear rails.
    Steel / aluminum CNC router design-cnc3-jpg

    The last picture is the status as off today: the gantry is also mainly finished and I have temporarily attached the first ballscrew. I just attached it to make sure it will fit and that I do not have to weld on the frame anymore after casting the epoxy linear rails beds on the gantry and frame.
    Steel / aluminum CNC router design-cnc4-jpg

    I did not do any measurements on it yet, but the machine did get really solid and stiff. I think it will be more than fit for the purpose!

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Steel / aluminum CNC router design-cnc1-jpg   Steel / aluminum CNC router design-cnc2-jpg   Steel / aluminum CNC router design-cnc3-jpg   Steel / aluminum CNC router design-cnc4-jpg  



  3. #15
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    Default Re: Steel / aluminum CNC router design

    Your strategy for the internal bracing plates (weld onto central rod, weld to beam through small holes) is great!!!

    7xCNC.com - CNC info for the minilathe (7x10, 7x12, 7x14, 7x16)


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