New DIY build - design suggestions/ideas welcome

[mactec54]

Very tidy!

What material do you recommend for the solid bushing? Something fancy like Drylin or something else?

Bronze oilite type of bushings, they are cheap and easy to find, you can also with this design, have the rods going to the fixed jaw and the moving jaw slides on the rods, so the rods would be fixed at both ends, this type is more robust, but limited to what you can clamp in it

Your open type you can clamp any size you can fit on your machine, you can also add side clamps, to larger work, just make more of the same style vices for the sides

I used a wiper seal also,to keep the rods clean from chips Etc from getting in the bushings

[zeeflyboy]

Cheers for the suggestions. I have looked for olite and I found some pre-made 12mm ID bushings... are those likely to be a good enough fit to lap or will they be too loose? I can buy some cored bar and make my own on the lathe if need be, just wondering if pre-made might be a viable shortcut as it will be significantly cheaper than buying bar stock too.

So anyway my wife gave birth to a happy little baby boy last weekend, which has as you may have guessed been consuming most of my play time! I haven't been able to do any milling but I have made a slow start on my anodising setup. I did a lot of reading up over the past week or two about LCD anodising method, and I've decided that the first thing I want to tackle is the anodising tank itself.

I bought a large polypropylene crate (just look for a number 5 and the letters PP) at homebase, which is big enough to fit the largest pieces I want to anodise at a little over 600mm long.

Problem is that I couldn't find anything with the length or depth required in a narrow width, so the crate is about 80L, probably 60 or so when filled to a level that I require. That's a lot of sulphuric acid, even if it is very dilute when using the LCD method. Seems that the recommended concentration for 6 ASF (amps per square foot) is 1:15, so I will need 3-4 litres of sulphuric acid to mix with 60 or so litres of water. It's also going to be very heavy, so my plan is to build a wheeled wooden frame around this crate to support it and make it easier to move around. There are definitely some logistics to consider with this much acid around and I may end up storing the solution in some appropriate plastic drums when not in use to keep things a bit safer.

To help keep the solution cool and with the happy side effect of displacing some volume from the tank thus reducing the amount of acid required I have made a PVC pipe system that I can pump cold water through to help keep the temperature down. Made using 32mm pipe and chemical welding






Next up will be the cathode bus bar and cathodes. From my reading Aluminium cathodes are better than lead in several regards, and means I don't need to worry about eventually disposing of lead contaminated solution.... but it seems the type of aluminium is quite specific for the best results. 6063-T6 is the specific type recommend, and I managed to find some fairly large extrusion in that formulation.

So far I have just cut up the pieces, the angle extrusion will be bolted to the square bus bar using stainless steel bolts (will be above the solution, not in it).

I am also considering my options for agitation. Easy one is air bubbling, but I've seen a few using acid-proof pumps to move the solution around which seems like a better option and would give me a mechanism for pumping the acid out into drums for storage and vice versa.

Anyone who has any experience with anodising I'm always up for helpful info given I'm a noob.

[wizard]

Cheers for the suggestions. I have looked for olite and I found some pre-made 12mm ID bushings... are those likely to be a good enough fit to lap or will they be too loose? I can buy some cored bar and make my own on the lathe if need be, just wondering if pre-made might be a viable shortcut as it will be significantly cheaper than buying bar stock too.

So anyway my wife gave birth to a happy little baby boy last weekend, which has as you may have guessed been consuming most of my play time! I haven't been able to do any milling but I have made a slow start on my anodising setup. I did a lot of reading up over the past week or two about LCD anodising method, and I've decided that the first thing I want to tackle is the anodising tank itself.

Congratulations!

Make the little lady a big steak dinner for bringing another machinist into the world!

I bought a large polypropylene crate (just look for a number 5 and the letters PP) at homebase, which is big enough to fit the largest pieces I want to anodise at a little over 600mm long.

Problem is that I couldn't find anything with the length or depth required in a narrow width, so the crate is about 80L, probably 60 or so when filled to a level that I require. That's a lot of sulphuric acid, even if it is very dilute when using the LCD method. Seems that the recommended concentration for 6 ASF (amps per square foot) is 1:15, so I will need 3-4 litres of sulphuric acid to mix with 60 or so litres of water. It's also going to be very heavy, so my plan is to build a wheeled wooden frame around this crate to support it and make it easier to move around. There are definitely some logistics to consider with this much acid around and I may end up storing the solution in some appropriate plastic drums when not in use to keep things a bit safer.

To help keep the solution cool and with the happy side effect of displacing some volume from the tank thus reducing the amount of acid required I have made a PVC pipe system that I can pump cold water through to help keep the temperature down. Made using 32mm pipe and chemical welding

Cool. You might try chucks of plastic to displace even more solution and to make dipping racks out of the same material (loaded to keep from floating).

As for keeping things cool is the to your advantage? I don't know as I've never anodized anything but many chemical reactions improve with temperature.

Next up will be the cathode bus bar and cathodes. From my reading Aluminium cathodes are better than lead in several regards, and means I don't need to worry about eventually disposing of lead contaminated solution.... but it seems the type of aluminium is quite specific for the best results. 6063-T6 is the specific type recommend, and I managed to find some fairly large extrusion in that formulation.

So far I have just cut up the pieces, the angle extrusion will be bolted to the square bus bar using stainless steel bolts (will be above the solution, not in it).

I am also considering my options for agitation. Easy one is air bubbling, but I've seen a few using acid-proof pumps to move the solution around which seems like a better option and would give me a mechanism for pumping the acid out into drums for storage and vice versa.

I would tend to think that air bubbles would be very bad. This based on experience with other things like PCB etching and film developing. As such prefer the pumps.

Anyone who has any experience with anodising I'm always up for helpful info given I'm a noob.

As anodizing goes I'm equally a noob so the comments above are mostly based upon other experiences. Some place in my stacks of books I actually have a nice little pamphlet that goes into DIY anodizing but it has been a long time since I read it. Basically I avoid it due to limited area upon which to place and store the materials. Love to see your results.

[mactec54]

Cheers for the suggestions. I have looked for olite and I found some pre-made 12mm ID bushings... are those likely to be a good enough fit to lap or will they be too loose? I can buy some cored bar and make my own on the lathe if need be, just wondering if pre-made might be a viable shortcut as it will be significantly cheaper than buying bar stock too.

So anyway my wife gave birth to a happy little baby boy last weekend, which has as you may have guessed been consuming most of my play time! I haven't been able to do any milling but I have made a slow start on my anodising setup. I did a lot of reading up over the past week or two about LCD anodising method, and I've decided that the first thing I want to tackle is the anodising tank itself.

I bought a large polypropylene crate (just look for a number 5 and the letters PP) at homebase, which is big enough to fit the largest pieces I want to anodise at a little over 600mm long.

Problem is that I couldn't find anything with the length or depth required in a narrow width, so the crate is about 80L, probably 60 or so when filled to a level that I require. That's a lot of sulphuric acid, even if it is very dilute when using the LCD method. Seems that the recommended concentration for 6 ASF (amps per square foot) is 1:15, so I will need 3-4 litres of sulphuric acid to mix with 60 or so litres of water. It's also going to be very heavy, so my plan is to build a wheeled wooden frame around this crate to support it and make it easier to move around. There are definitely some logistics to consider with this much acid around and I may end up storing the solution in some appropriate plastic drums when not in use to keep things a bit safer.

To help keep the solution cool and with the happy side effect of displacing some volume from the tank thus reducing the amount of acid required I have made a PVC pipe system that I can pump cold water through to help keep the temperature down. Made using 32mm pipe and chemical welding






Next up will be the cathode bus bar and cathodes. From my reading Aluminium cathodes are better than lead in several regards, and means I don't need to worry about eventually disposing of lead contaminated solution.... but it seems the type of aluminium is quite specific for the best results. 6063-T6 is the specific type recommend, and I managed to find some fairly large extrusion in that formulation.

So far I have just cut up the pieces, the angle extrusion will be bolted to the square bus bar using stainless steel bolts (will be above the solution, not in it).

I am also considering my options for agitation. Easy one is air bubbling, but I've seen a few using acid-proof pumps to move the solution around which seems like a better option and would give me a mechanism for pumping the acid out into drums for storage and vice versa.

Anyone who has any experience with anodising I'm always up for helpful info given I'm a noob.

It would depend on how much of a press fit, you can do with the bushing as to how much it will close up, so you would have some for lapping, you have your lathe, you could make your own, which is really the best way, does not have to be oilite Bushing

Here is 2 UK suppliers for Bushings
Oilite Bearings | Self Lubricating Bearings | Bowman
https://www.bearingboys.co.uk/Oilite...Bushes--1011-c

Anodizing, you may not need any cooling, when I run my system, if I see the temperature getting to high, I put a sealed plastic bag ( zip lock bags work ) of ice, that works fine, circulation is important, and filtration

You most likely already found this company, http://www.caswellplating.com.au/LCD.pdf they have lots of reading and supplies

[WENTECHCNC]

Truly amazing project! We are envious

[zeeflyboy]

Congratulations!

Make the little lady a big steak dinner for bringing another machinist into the world!

The mother in law treated us to a nice steak dinner the first night back from hospital!

Cool. You might try chucks of plastic to displace even more solution and to make dipping racks out of the same material (loaded to keep from floating).

Yeah, that's a possibility. Have to be careful what types of plastic to use, but I don't think polypropylene is overly expensive.

As for keeping things cool is the to your advantage? I don't know as I've never anodized anything but many chemical reactions improve with temperature.

Yes that's the problem, the warmer the solution the faster it breaks down the film you are trying to create. By keeping it cool you help reduce the rate at which it breaks down... most home type II is done at room temp, but the solution warms over time up due to the current flowing through.

I would tend to think that air bubbles would be very bad. This based on experience with other things like PCB etching and film developing. As such prefer the pumps.

Vast majority seem to use air agitation. Agitation is important, but I don't really like the idea of bubbles in so far as it increases fumes and splashing at the surface... I found a nice pump on aliexpress which should do the job.


Mactec - yeah caswell has been a big source of info for me. I may email bearingboys (that was where I had found the oilite actually) to see if they can give me an indication of how snug the pre-made ones will be if I give them the bar diameter. I'll probably just end up turning my own.

[mactec54]

Congratulations!

Make the little lady a big steak dinner for bringing another machinist into the world!

Cool. You might try chucks of plastic to displace even more solution and to make dipping racks out of the same material (loaded to keep from floating).

As for keeping things cool is the to your advantage? I don't know as I've never anodized anything but many chemical reactions improve with temperature.

I would tend to think that air bubbles would be very bad. This based on experience with other things like PCB etching and film developing. As such prefer the pumps.


As anodizing goes I'm equally a noob so the comments above are mostly based upon other experiences. Some place in my stacks of books I actually have a nice little pamphlet that goes into DIY anodizing but it has been a long time since I read it. Basically I avoid it due to limited area upon which to place and store the materials. Love to see your results.

Your based upon other experiences, is completely wrong, unless you know the process, and have done it, then why say such things, there are lots on the zone, that post large post like you with misleading information that others follow

The only part you got right was the Congratulations!, the rest is BS and of no help for anyone

[handlewanker]

Hi, wish you the best of luck......having worked in the lock and door furniture industry for 20 years the plating section with all it's fumes etc was one area I mostly stayed away from.............after a few hours of work study in that area you went home with a dry gritty taste in your mouth.

There's going to be fumes in the air.......anything made from metal that was shiny will have a dull finish after a while........especially cast iron that turns brown......and all your tools too.

What you are going to do needs to be done outside.......on that score you will definitely wish you had.
Ian.

[zeeflyboy]

Well I wasn't intending on doing it in the living room

Will either do it in the garage with the garage door open and some fans or just do it outside if the weather is conducive. Plan is to store in air tight HDPE drums when not in use. On top of that using the LCD method at 6 asf it is a very dilute solution (about 1:15 with water by volume) which reduces the associated fumes and risks involved in handling it... although I still wouldn't be taking bath in the stuff. Fumes will further be reduced by my plan to use a pump to circulate the solution rather than air agitation. Plating is also quite a lot worse than anodising regarding fumes afaik.

It's only for occasionally use really, just much more cost effective than getting repeated small batches or one offs done by the pro's.

[mactec54]

Well I wasn't intending on doing it in the living room

Will either do it in the garage with the garage door open and some fans or just do it outside if the weather is conducive. Plan is to store in air tight HDPE drums when not in use. On top of that using the LCD method at 6 asf it is a very dilute solution (about 1:15 with water by volume) which reduces the associated fumes and risks involved in handling it... although I still wouldn't be taking bath in the stuff. Fumes will further be reduced by my plan to use a pump to circulate the solution rather than air agitation. Plating is also quite a lot worse than anodising regarding fumes afaik.

It's only for occasionally use really, just much more cost effective than getting repeated small batches or one offs done by the pro's.

Your LCD process will be fine, even if you did it in the closet, I use my acid bath at 50/50 and do not have any problems with machines, steel Etc having any oxidization in 10years from this type II anodizing process, fans are a bad idea as that will blow any fumes around

When you said you where doing the LCD process, I was wondering why you needed the cooling, as this is not normally needed for the LCD process, you can do a lot of anodizing before your acid would get hot

[zeeflyboy]

To be honest it's just that I had some pipe stuff long around anyway and wanted to remove volume from the tank. Gives the option to cool it if I feel it needs it at least. Glad you say the LCD stuff is fine regarding fumes etc.

Back to the build!

So had a chance to make my rail alignment doohickeys:










My plan to cut them so that the critical height is on the same part of the ballscrew seems to have worked well:

13.499mm



13.500mm




Biggest variation i found was 13.497 to 13.503, so max variation of 0.006mm (0.00024 inches if you are that way inclined), so pretty happy with that.


I 3d printed a jig and made some drill bushings on the lathe, looks like a shocked robot:



After drilling, tapping and a quick de-burring I gave the 20mm bed plate a good clean and laid the machine down on it upside down. Wiped each piece and area with an alcohol wipe to try and minimise any dust or dirt before fastening the rail spacers into position against the bed plate as a reference.





Then finally gave the rails a good wipe with a vanguard anti-corrosion wipe (hopefully minimise any naughtiness between the steel rail and milled aluminium mounting surface) before mounting them against the rail guides.




Next up will be re-making the front plate after my motor mount height snafu, then I can crack on and get this lower frame finished off before moving on to the Z-axis next.

[zeeflyboy]

Made one of the screw mounting plates:






Flipped for the rear side, it was previously held down at the near edge too but I removed the front clamp to run the chamfer.




Unfortunately it's way too tall to fit into the CNC for drilling the sides, so I 3D printed another jig and made some drill bushings on the Lathe:






Nice snug fit:




Drilled and tapped:




Assembled:






Fitting to the machine reminded me that I need to flip the nuts on the screws and also showed a small design tweak that's required to then give the nut clearance, other than that though the fit is spot on regarding heights and spacing.

[zeeflyboy]

So flipped one of the ball nuts, they came with some plastic tubes but off course I tried to use the Z-axis 1604 ball screw's tube for the 1605 and the end result is that tonight I learned how to re-pack a ball nut lol. Thankfully I did it all in a sandwich bag so no balls were lost. Helps when you use the right tube

Other than that I made the required design tweaks and modified the plate... I wanted to give the cutout that clears the motor mount a little more clearance and I also made room for the flipped nut.

Aligned the plate using dowels to make sure it was square to the axis, then used a probe to determine zero... occurred to me that perhaps not many have seen the touch probing screen on mach4, quite convenient to use for most circumstances:






modifications made:




Fitted to the machine, for ballscrew alignment the plan is to assemble by the fixed position motor mount here:




Then drive it up to the top with the floating bearing mount screws loosened off, then re-tighten once up there... ensures the screw is lined up to the linear rail at both ends. So far seems to have worked as it's nice and smooth at both ends with no binding.




Now I just need to make the other side

[zeeflyboy]

ta!

So nothing exciting, bit of a wash rinse repeat but in mirror image:










And now got both fitted... next up will be the Z-axis I think.






I also thought I'd just put this little video of my current machine munching some aluminium... I think she does a pretty good job for a 6040 type machine. This particular bit I did with a 6mm x 22mm single flute end mill with 2000mm/min, 1.5mm axial engagement and 5mm depth of cut at I believe 19k rpm.

[mactec54]

zeeflyboy

Looks like some good progress, the pocket for the ballscrew nut mounting looks good also

[handlewanker]

Hi just re-read the entire thread to get a better insight to the build plan.

looking at the final post pics of the underside of the Y axis and the 2 separate L shaped ball nut mounting plates and I would have thought that it would have been better to have the 2 plates as one piece across the Y axis instead of 2 separate pieces.........specifically, to continue the area between the ball nut mountings to make it as one piece across.

That is how they are "normally" made in moving gantry routers.......it adds more stiffness to the gantry assembly as a whole..........even if the side support members are tied against the bottom frame with the linear rails.

The linear rail bearing blocks are now doing a double job of holding the side supports together and guiding the Y axis travel.....they should only be a guiding factor.

The moving gantry type design calls for a closed box frame type construction in the gantry to maintain squareness and rigidity.....this design has made it open on the bottom ......for no good reason and certainly not for a design concept improvement.

This is just an observation, but would be the way to go if most were making it.
Ian.

[zeeflyboy]

It is for good reason, which I've mentioned a few times (but it's a long thread so I wouldn't expect anyone to have read it all) - my current machine can't make a big enough piece to span in one go.

It will probably be an upgrade that the new machine can make for itself as one of it's first jobs as it will easily fit within the work envelope of the new machine.

Mactec, thanks.

[handlewanker]

I like that....the machine re-making itself.....cool.

If you go back to the techniques used for cylinder 'boring" in the 1700's they laid the (huge) cylinder casting on it's side and dragged a lead lap loaded with abrasive compound back and forth with horses to get the bore diam true to within the thickness of a sixpence......we are truly spoilt for choice when it comes to making machinery
Ian.

[NIC 77]

Some pretty awesome workmanship on this build.

[zeeflyboy]

handle - yeah it never ceases to amaze me what people managed back in the day without modern machines!

Nic - cheers!

Managed to crack out the back plate for the Z-axis today:

First fixture




Second fixture (I actually had two screws in the right side holes as well but took them out before I remembered to take a pic)




My replacement 10mm roughing bit arrived last week so I got another chance to use it after breaking my previous one with some stupid G-code. It very happily munches away at 14k rpm, 10mm DoC and 1mm axial engagement at 1500mm/min... makes short work of this 20mm plate as it's all done in two passes! Looking forwards to being able to up the feed rates and axial depths on the new machine I hope though.

Finished part: