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  1. #21
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    Default Re: The Black Beast

    There is an option to add a second ball nut to each screw, in which case the outer two sets of holes would be used. My understanding is this in only necessary on a longer machine to help reduce ball screw whip. Hopefully that won't be an issue with mine as those 25mm screws don't flex much, however my easy servos can spin up to 3000rpm If there's any issues with the machine running full tilt I'll report back.



  2. #22
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    Default Re: The Black Beast

    I've started attaching the cable carriers, and will need to make a few more custom brackets before everything can be finished up. Also need to make extensions for the proximity sensor wires, find and order the right breakout boards to go between the leadshine drivers and the UC300 and decide if I'm going to keep my current electronics cabinet (which is a re purposed filing cabinet, or scrap it and go with a more traditional box) Doing a good job with wiring is not nearly as straightforward as I had hoped, and is causing a few headaches.

    Attachment 341594

    The Black Beast-img_3028-jpg



  3. #23

    Default Re: The Black Beast

    If you get a chance, could you measure the bottom of the gantry to the top of the side rails, please. I believe I read somewhere that this machine had 12" of Z travel but wasn't sure if that was gantry clearance to the rails or actual travel of the Z-Axis.

    Thanks



  4. #24
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    Default Re: The Black Beast

    The z axis travel is 12", however the clearance under the gantry is only 6". I'm a little disappointed in this as I wanted a machine with more clearance and this wasn't mentioned. There is a workaround as it's possible to install a sub table beneath the bed, in which case there could be up to 36" of clearance below the gantry. I may end up making myself some new side plates once the machine is up and running if the clearance causes too many issues for me.


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  5. #25
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    Default Re: The Black Beast

    Thought I'd show some more of the progress I've made. I managed to squeeze all the wires I'll need into the cable chain along with a fluid line and an air line so I can run a coolant mister for aluminum and air for plastics and wood if necessary.



    My homemade setup is essentially a water filter that I'm modifying with pressure regulators so I can control air and fluid flow. I'm going to add solenoid control at some point too so it can all be cnc controlled.



    There's a few brackets missing from this design when it comes to anchoring the cable chain. I've been improvising for the x and y axis, however I haven't settled on a solution for the z axis. The mount for the tekno spindle doesn't really have any extra space to attach the cable chain, so perhaps a larger mounting plate will be necessary. This would have the added benefit of additional room for auxiliary attachments like a laser and 3D printing extruder.



    I've been working away at getting the control box set up as well. Planning out the wiring is more work then I had anticipated, especially since there are lots of little bits and pieces that need to be sourced. Anyone with experience who can share tips would be greatly appreciated.



    I'm still waiting for my breakout boards and VFD to arrive so I can get the next big chunk of wiring done, and finally get things under power.



  6. #26

    Default Re: The Black Beast

    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew22 View Post
    The z axis travel is 12", however the clearance under the gantry is only 6". I'm a little disappointed in this as I wanted a machine with more clearance and this wasn't mentioned. There is a workaround as it's possible to install a sub table beneath the bed, in which case there could be up to 36" of clearance below the gantry. I may end up making myself some new side plates once the machine is up and running if the clearance causes too many issues for me.
    That is indeed a disappointment and something I'll need to give further consideration. A spoilboard or table is going to take away from that even more. I understand the side plates are 1" thick, can you give me the overall width and height of those pieces?

    Thanks again.



  7. #27
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    Default Re: The Black Beast

    Side plates are 8" wide and 19.5" tall overall



  8. #28

    Default Re: The Black Beast

    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew22 View Post
    Side plates are 8" wide and 19.5" tall overall
    Well, I wasn't too far off, thanks. On the model I'm drawing up in Fusion 360 I came up with 19.65" on the height and 10.34" on the width. This is just based on pictures and whatever dimensions are available. 8" width will provide a little more Y travel and 10" would provide a little more rigidity. Everything's a tradeoff on these things. I suspect if I were to cut all the aluminum plates myself (or more likely have them cut) and use these extrusions, I'd keep the width at 10" and increase the height a couple of inches.

    Looking forward to hearing how the machine runs once you have it all together.



  9. #29
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    Default Re: The Black Beast

    Andrew22,

    Looks like your running SO cord in the cable chain. I hope that is not going to your spindle, if so you will most certainly need to replace it with a shielded or double shielded cable for the spindle or you machine will go into reset as soon as you start the spindle.

    Russ



  10. #30
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    Default Re: The Black Beast

    Quote Originally Posted by CNCMAN172 View Post
    Andrew22,

    Looks like your running SO cord in the cable chain. I hope that is not going to your spindle, if so you will most certainly need to replace it with a shielded or double shielded cable for the spindle or you machine will go into reset as soon as you start the spindle.

    Russ
    Hey Russ, good point about the SO cord. I've ordered cable along with my spindle which should be properly shielded, but I was planning on using the SO cord as an auxiliary power for a laser or 3D printing extruder. The easy servo power cables run 220v as well, and they don't appear to be shielded so I wasn't really thinking much about EMF. Do you think 60hz will cause problems?


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  11. #31
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    Default Re: The Black Beast

    Andrew22,

    Running un-shielded AC power cables down those cable runs will absolutely be a problem. You need to ensure all lines carrying AC power are shielded, as they will interfere with the low voltage in the same cable runs. Normally on a Servo power cable you have 220 AC power running to the main lines of the servo driver and then you have simulated three phase power that goes from the servo drive to the servo motor. These cable should all be shielded. Do you very best to keep all AC power cables away from low voltage lines. When they have to run in the same tray it is best to use shielded cables for both the low power and AC cables. I am just trying to save you a huge number of headaches down the line when you start to use the machine. I have been there myself. Ugh

    RUss



  12. #32
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    Default Re: The Black Beast

    Quote Originally Posted by CNCMAN172 View Post
    Andrew22,

    Running un-shielded AC power cables down those cable runs will absolutely be a problem. You need to ensure all lines carrying AC power are shielded, as they will interfere with the low voltage in the same cable runs. Normally on a Servo power cable you have 220 AC power running to the main lines of the servo driver and then you have simulated three phase power that goes from the servo drive to the servo motor. These cable should all be shielded. Do you very best to keep all AC power cables away from low voltage lines. When they have to run in the same tray it is best to use shielded cables for both the low power and AC cables. I am just trying to save you a huge number of headaches down the line when you start to use the machine. I have been there myself. Ugh

    RUss
    Well it looks like I have a bit more work cut out for me. None of the power cables Leadshine supplied appear to be shielded, and I can't tell if the encoder cables are shielded (hopefully they are). My proximity sensor cables aren't shielded either. The cables I bought to go between the drivers and the motion controller are shielded so at least I've got that.
    Any ideas on wrapping the servo power cables? They've already got the right connectors attached and I'd hate to throw away that much cable.


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  13. #33

    Default Re: The Black Beast

    It looks like these machines can now be ordered on www.InMotion.com. A few items in this build may be optional upgrades now, but the motor kit is included (free for limited time it says). I was quoted $4K for everything but electronics and $700 for the motor kit, so the website price is actually a little less than that with most optional upgrades. Guess I better start saving my lunch money. lol



  14. #34
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    Default Re: The Black Beast

    Andrew22

    You can save some of those cables by ordering some copper braided shield. The stuff is not that expensive and looks like Chinese handcuffs. You slide it over the cable then put a couple of inches of heat shrink on each end. You twist some of the braid at the end to attach to ground.

    Russ



  15. #35
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    Default Re: The Black Beast

    Andrew22,

    This is the stuff I am talking about you can slide this over the cables with the connectors and then stretch it tight and use a couple of two inch pieces on heat shrink on the ends to hold it in place. This stuff works great, you just twist one end to make a wire cable and attach that to the ground point.

    Russ


    50 Ft' Flat Braided Tinned Copper Wire 1/4" Wide Ground Strap USA | eBay

    30 FEET 3/4" BRAIDED GROUND STRAP GROUNDING Tinned Copper Flat Braid MADE IN USA | eBay

    50 FEET 1/2 BRAIDED GROUND STRAP GROUNDING Tinned Copper Flat Braid | eBay



  16. #36
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    Default Re: The Black Beast

    That should do the trick for the most part. There's short pigtails coming right out of the servo with a connector on the end that I wouldn't be able to slide a sleeve over, do you think something like aluminum hvac tape would work for small sections or should I look for a specialized wrap?


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  17. #37
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    Default Re: The Black Beast

    Andrew, you don't really need to address that unless you really have a noisy system. On mine I actually left the end the plugs into the servo motor long and put the heat shrink back a little and after you plug in the servo motor you can slide the shield over the short 8" servo cable and then I just use a tie strap to hold it in place, that works well. They sell the braided tinned copper in various sizes which is really nice.

    Russ



  18. #38

    Default Re: The Black Beast

    Are you up and running yet? Anxious to see how this machine performs, so any updates are appreciated.

    Regards,
    Ed



  19. #39
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    Default Re: The Black Beast

    Nearly up and running. My tekno spindle and VFD arrived and I've got that working well. That spindle is awesome, I put a dowel pin in the collet to test for runnout and it's under .0002". I'm in the process of making a dust shoe as well, but the biggest hurdle so far has been electronics and software.

    Maybe because I'm more of a mechanical guy, but there's lots of little details when it comes to wiring up a controller, and it's very time consuming to build without pre sourced components and/or a manual. To be clear, the leadshine easy servos and drivers are easy to install, but there's a whole lot of extras that interface between those drivers and the motion controller to make everything work safely. I think I'm going to get some fancier breakout boards so that I can control the VFD through UCCNC software, but I still need to make sure I have the proper breakers, switches and other fail safes for the control box before that can be considered finished. All of this adds up to a lot of work when there isn't a BOM to help source parts from. As it stands right now, I'm still looking to source the final components, but hopefully I'll be able to get the machine moving soon.

    The Black Beast-img_3086-jpg

    The Black Beast-img_3092-jpg

    I had to make some custom brackets to hold the cable chain, and the 1.8kw spindle required some modifications to the standard tekno mount I bought for the machine, but it's mounted now and feels quite solid. I'm going to use the extra holes tapped on the sides of the spindle to hold auxiliary mounts for a 3D printing head, laser, and other accessories that may need to be bolted on and off in the future. I'll probably figure out a bracket for a dust collection hose too.



  20. #40
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    Default Re: The Black Beast

    What are the solenoid valves for?

    Gerry

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