Support For Gas Pipe Rails

[cbcnc]

Ijoe, mvaughn, et all,

I posted some photos in the photo section under CBCNC. I'll do a seperate message later giving all the specs for any who are interested.

Pminmo-

Good idea . I don't imagine the pipe would sag if you placed them every 6" or so.

Chris

[Mr.Chips]

Originally posted by Hobbiest
Or for another idea, scribe a line down the edge of the pipe lengthwise. Drill holes every 6" or so, and tap for 1/4" NFT. Drill corosponding holes in the base of the machine, and insert a bolt. The bolt must have no shoulder. Put two hex nuts on the bolt, then thread into the pipe. Set the two ends to their height, then tighten the nuts to the pipe end, and the base end to lock in place. Go down the line and do this at every bolt, and you have a mounting system that is not only solid, but is infinately adjustable for absolutely true ways! Length is also not an issue, as the bolts run the entire length of the ways.

There might be a problem with side forces just using the nuts against the pipe. Think you might need to cradel the rail in some way with a fairly wide base to further prevent side forces.

I like the ability to have multiple adjustment points. Just would like to be able to make lateral adjustments that didn't have to be done from the bottom.

Thanks
Hager

[ljoe1969]

how bout using a cove cutting bit in a router and a router table to cut the groove in the wood?

[Hobbiest]

Thomson (I think) sells shaft that is pre-drilled for this purpose. In the book "How to Build a Workshop Bot", this is how the author manages his system. I do agree though that lateral adjustment would be nice. For the wood idea, set your skilsaw, or tablesaw blade to 30 deg, rip one piece 3 in (or whatever is necessary) wide, set blade back to 0, then cut corresponding piece. Laminate together to form a V shape. Drill holes in the center to reach the pipe. For lateral adjustment, use bolts and jam nuts to push/pull the supports where you need them. Then again, in my experience with bearings and pipe, it really doesn't matter too much if they are out by a bit. Don't want sag though.

[Mr.Chips]

Originally posted by ljoe1969
how bout using a cove cutting bit in a router and a router table to cut the groove in the wood?

The Cove bit would have to be the exact radius of the pipe, so as to obtain as much contact as possible, which is desirable. Otherwise you have a two point contact situation. If I had to go that way I might use some kind of filler (epoxy, bondo. . .) to maximize the contact.

Thomson does make this part, but the challange for me is to DIY cheaply and have it hopefully work as good as the Thomson.
Hager

[Hobbiest]

But why does it need to be complete contact? Even if it is, the contact point is still less than 15% or so of the available surface of the pipe. I think it is kind of an apples to oranges situation, and that a V shaped support will work just as well. Besides, like we have all stated, these machines are built this way for a reason...simplicity, and they are inexpensive. The parts can only get so well aligned, especially if you are running gravity loaded roller beraings in the first place. Now if some type of pre-load is present...
Jens

[Mr.Chips]

Originally posted by Hobbiest
Besides, like we have all stated, these machines are built this way for a reason...simplicity, and they are inexpensive. The parts can only get so well aligned, especially if you are running gravity loaded roller beraings in the first place. Now if some type of pre-load is present...
Jens [/B]

I agree, there are many ways to mount rails and each person will choose the method that they have the equipment to make and will work best for them in their machine design.
Hager