advice with this design

[GANADERO]

Hello friends

I want to begin the manufacture of a router something like this I've been looking for some old post but can not find someone has made a simple one like this

tanks for you help friends




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[awerby]

If you want a ShopSabre, just buy one. It's not a DIY design, and they probably wouldn't appreciate your manufacturing copies of it in Mexico (or New Zealand, or wherever you are).

If you want to build a machine for your own use, there are plenty of plans available that you can use. Look on the Mechmate forum for a good one: MechMate CNC Router Forum - Powered by vBulletin

[GANADERO]

If you want to build a machine for your own use, there are plenty of plans available that you can use. Look on the Mechmate forum for a good one: MechMate CNC Router Forum - Powered by vBulletin[/QUOTE]



hey friend see this design like this i dont want to manufacture sorry is only for my own use sorry

[handlewanker]

Hi, I think the guy did say "something like this".........and as a CNC router is almost the same as the next one apart from the actual dimensions, "something like this" can be just that.

I doubt he wants to copy the exact size and shape of the design down to the last nut and bolt etc of the one he posted, but it's a starting point anyway.

By manufacture, that would interpret as I want to DIY make one myself etc.

It would be a good starting point to know how big a work zone he needs.......and also how big a budget he has......importing parts to an adobe in the Mexican desert could be quite costly.....LOL.
Ian.

[hanermo]

Importing costs nothing.
I get 40 shipments per year from all over the world.
(But mexico is somewhat of a special case, from experience).

Ganadero:
Building the router is easy.
Loot at a mechmate for inspiration, and use linear guides and ac brushless servos.
20 mm hiwin guides are == 400 / axis x 3=1200,
servos 290 x 3 = 1200,
add ethernet pokeys+cnc for hardware pulse generator / interface, 150,
psu 150, done.
25 mm D(iameter) ballscrews for 1200 mm length, 40 mm for 3 m, about 300 each.

Above prices are approximate costs, to you, in mexico, via dhl.
They are the same prices I get here, with 22% IVA tax.
For the 22% you can have them shipped to you in mexico via dhl.

The above will make an industrial quality router good for running professional work all day every day.
Accuracy will be about 0.005 mm on mechanicals.

Weld up frame, make top frame so a single steel member is bolted onto it, below.
Steel member about 40x60x1200 mm for a 1200 mm length.
Have bolted members milled flat by someone with a Haas VF3 or bigger, drilled and tapped for linear guides, about 300 (takes one hour, max).
Bolt trucks below, so the dust does not go onto the rails, trucks.

If you cant find someone, call Hitech mexico, and ask for a customer of theirs near you.
They are the Haas distributors, really nice guys, I know them.
HITEC CNC | M

[GANADERO]

tanks for you advice friends

[GANADERO]

hi friend tanks It is exactly what I tried to say this model is my starting point , I think something economical and functional

- - - Updated - - -

Hi, I think the guy did say "something like this".........and as a CNC router is almost the same as the next one apart from the actual dimensions, "something like this" can be just that.

I doubt he wants to copy the exact size and shape of the design down to the last nut and bolt etc of the one he posted, but it's a starting point anyway.

By manufacture, that would interpret as I want to DIY make one myself etc.

It would be a good starting point to know how big a work zone he needs.......and also how big a budget he has......importing parts to an adobe in the Mexican desert could be quite costly.....LOL.
Ian.

hi friend tanks It is exactly what I tried to say this model is my starting point , I think something economical and functional

[GANADERO]

Importing costs nothing.
I get 40 shipments per year from all over the world.
(But mexico is somewhat of a special case, from experience).

Ganadero:
Building the router is easy.
Loot at a mechmate for inspiration, and use linear guides and ac brushless servos.
20 mm hiwin guides are == 400 / axis x 3=1200,
servos 290 x 3 = 1200,
add ethernet pokeys+cnc for hardware pulse generator / interface, 150,
psu 150, done.
25 mm D(iameter) ballscrews for 1200 mm length, 40 mm for 3 m, about 300 each.

Above prices are approximate costs, to you, in mexico, via dhl.
They are the same prices I get here, with 22% IVA tax.
For the 22% you can have them shipped to you in mexico via dhl.

The above will make an industrial quality router good for running professional work all day every day.
Accuracy will be about 0.005 mm on mechanicals.

Weld up frame, make top frame so a single steel member is bolted onto it, below.
Steel member about 40x60x1200 mm for a 1200 mm length.
Have bolted members milled flat by someone with a Haas VF3 or bigger, drilled and tapped for linear guides, about 300 (takes one hour, max).
Bolt trucks below, so the dust does not go onto the rails, trucks.

If you cant find someone, call Hitech mexico, and ask for a customer of theirs near you.
They are the Haas distributors, really nice guys, I know them.
HITEC CNC | M

nice advice my friend i will contact at HITEC CNC

[GANADERO]

HELLO GUYS

here the first pics of the 4x8 ft table advices please

[wizard]

HELLO GUYS

here the first pics of the 4x8 ft table advices please

On the long axis of the table I'd suggest at least one vertical support between the two horizontal beams. 8+ feet is a pretty significant distance for an unsupported smallish beam. At least the beams look thin in the drawings.

I missed any mention of what you intend to do with the machine as that impacts the advice we might offer. I'm assuming that a machine this size will be focused on sheet goods which can have a wide array of quality requirements. In any even dimensions on some of those parts would be helpful as it is difficult to tell from these renderings. My initial feelings are that you might want to beef things up a bit in the gantry.

The other concern is to make sure you have an optimal amount of Y axis clearance combined with Z axis travel. There are two issues, one is to make sure you have suitable clearance when once the spoil board, work piece and any fixturing is installed. It is hard to tell from the sketch what your real world clearance will be especially with the Y axis saddle in place. The second issue it that you want enough Z travel to clear the tooling you expect to be working with. This info simply isn't in the renderings.

[hanermo]

You need to make the machine stiff.
A thin, 3 mm steel sheet, riveted or spot welded on the sides all around will accomplish this nicely.

Triple the width of the z axis standoffs.
Make it a triangle.
Width == twice the height.
==> 10x more rigid, 10x better, minimal cost increase.

[victorofga]

mightbe the simplest, you build a baseframe out of 40x40 or 40x60 square tube steel..

for the machine mainframe, you can put onto a rectangle tube what hold itself..
example 2 in by 5 in
50x125 mm

this size, or a 60x150 mm already sufficient for.. you can mount the rails and racks onto..

use steel for the frame, and use hiwin rals.. the aluextrusions are expenses..

probably you can buy close to you this, eliminating a huge shipping cost..

MetalsDepot

and buy parts...

CNCRouterParts

you don't have to buy complete kit, just what really need and you can not make simple way..

[handlewanker]

Hi, whatever you use for the frame, your biggest problem will be getting both sides of the rails level to within a fraction of a millimetre.....over 8 feet........no matter how good the Hiwin rails are, if they aren't level, and that is in three planes, you will have problems apart from odd happenings as the steppers push the gantry along.

If you're only going to rout shapes into wood panels, the router bit will probably produce a raised pattern that won't be too out of shape to be noticed, but a lot depends on how well you align the frame work......it will need to have sufficient levelling screws, at least 4 per side to get the frame to sit level on a floor even if the floor is uneven, so another 2 upright legs....(a total of 4 per side would be better than just 2)..... is needed in the two sides......then add some cross bracing between the end uprights and the middle ones to form a stiff latticed base frame.......the base structure needs to be stand alone without relying on the floor to keep it level.

This construction does call for steel tube all welded etc.......not bolted if you can help it.
Ian.

[GANADERO]

On the long axis of the table I'd suggest at least one vertical support between the two horizontal beams. 8+ feet is a pretty significant distance for an unsupported smallish beam. At least the beams look thin in the drawings.

I missed any mention of what you intend to do with the machine as that impacts the advice we might offer. I'm assuming that a machine this size will be focused on sheet goods which can have a wide array of quality requirements. In any even dimensions on some of those parts would be helpful as it is difficult to tell from these renderings. My initial feelings are that you might want to beef things up a bit in the gantry.

The other concern is to make sure you have an optimal amount of Y axis clearance combined with Z axis travel. There are two issues, one is to make sure you have suitable clearance when once the spoil board, work piece and any fixturing is installed. It is hard to tell from the sketch what your real world clearance will be especially with the Y axis saddle in place. The second issue it that you want enough Z travel to clear the tooling you expect to be working with. This info simply isn't in the renderings.

hello wizard;

tanks very much for you advices, mainly I want to cut sheets of wood for manufacture of furniture and art may someday few small pieces of aluminum

[GANADERO]

You need to make the machine stiff.
A thin, 3 mm steel sheet, riveted or spot welded on the sides all around will accomplish this nicely.

Triple the width of the z axis standoffs.
Make it a triangle.
Width == twice the height.
==> 10x more rigid, 10x better, minimal cost increase.

HELLO HANERMO;

how are you my friend ?thank you very much for your good advice good option put a 3mm steel sheet

[GANADERO]

mightbe the simplest, you build a baseframe out of 40x40 or 40x60 square tube steel..

for the machine mainframe, you can put onto a rectangle tube what hold itself..
example 2 in by 5 in
50x125 mm

this size, or a 60x150 mm already sufficient for.. you can mount the rails and racks onto..

use steel for the frame, and use hiwin rals.. the aluextrusions are expenses..

probably you can buy close to you this, eliminating a huge shipping cost..

MetalsDepot

and buy parts...

CNCRouterParts

you don't have to buy complete kit, just what really need and you can not make simple way..

HELLO VICTOROFAGA;

Hello guy how are you tanks for this link cnc routerparts see the web and they have good products cherrs

[GANADERO]

Hi, whatever you use for the frame, your biggest problem will be getting both sides of the rails level to within a fraction of a millimetre.....over 8 feet........no matter how good the Hiwin rails are, if they aren't level, and that is in three planes, you will have problems apart from odd happenings as the steppers push the gantry along.

If you're only going to rout shapes into wood panels, the router bit will probably produce a raised pattern that won't be too out of shape to be noticed, but a lot depends on how well you align the frame work......it will need to have sufficient levelling screws, at least 4 per side to get the frame to sit level on a floor even if the floor is uneven, so another 2 upright legs....(a total of 4 per side would be better than just 2)..... is needed in the two sides......then add some cross bracing between the end uprights and the middle ones to form a stiff latticed base frame.......the base structure needs to be stand alone without relying on the floor to keep it level.

This construction does call for steel tube all welded etc.......not bolted if you can help it.
Ian.

HELLO HANDLEWALNKER;


what is your opinion about this image

[A_Camera]

If you want a ShopSabre, just buy one. It's not a DIY design, and they probably wouldn't appreciate your manufacturing copies of it in Mexico (or New Zealand, or wherever you are).

He didn't say ANYTHING about making and selling copies of that machine. Why do you assume that? My interpretation is that the picture was an example of a machine he wanted to build for himself, a similar one, not a copy. Besides, the picture shows an ordinary moving gantry machine, nothing really special or revolutionary about that design, as long as he is not printing Sabre on it and selling it as a Sabre it should be just fine.

[A_Camera]

what is your opinion about this image

I don't know the exact dimensions you had in mind, but if that drawing is proportional then I think the parts should be larger. The parts used are simply too thin in my opinion, especially the horizontal ones should be larger, but to provide good stability on the floor and to reduce vibrations, I´d make even the vertical ones at least twice that wide.

Another thing...

Don't worry about welding. I think that discussion (welding vs. bolting) has been going on as long as the two things have been invented. If you are not extremely good at welding then bolt it. It is much easier to do it right, and is easier to adjust when necessary (not IF necessary, because it WILL be necessary). If you are welding and not very good at it you WILL get twisted parts which you have to redo or fix somehow, otherwise your CNC will be rubbish and useless. If you are going for welding be prepared to correct the machine somehow because you most probably MUST do that, especially in a such large machine, and especially since this is your first CNC.

Good luck.

[hanermo]

My machine is welded steel, assembled with bolts as assemblies.
More and more, its bolt-on components.

Rivets are a good, easy, clean, cheap, fast compromise.
Note that the machine structure is very lightly loaded, as are all cnc machines.

By definition, a cnc machine is a very lightly loaded structure.
The loads are usually 1% at MAX, and typicall way under 0.1% of actual strength, as yield strength.