I think those solid brass couplers are a mistake. Unless you've got everything aligned perfectly, they'll eventually snap the shafts off your motors. Try replacing them with Oldham-style flexible couplers.
Hello, all.
Former Taig owner here. I had to sell it during the mortgage crisis, and I've been wanting another machine ever since.
So, I've been parting one together, one piece at a time.
Here's the initial set-up, and cutting of the frame from Series 15 Faztek extrusion.
John Bear Ross: Target Sighted: Work Begins On A CNC Prototyper
Axes were from John at Microcarve. Excellent workmanship.
Spindle is a Hitachi M12. 2.25 Hp.
Fast forward a year, and here's the set-up, so far.
John Bear Ross: My New CNC Machine
I tilted the whole arrangement back because I was having Z binding issues, due to the cantilevered load of the spindle. I took inspiration from slant-bed lathes, and put a pair of risers beneath the frame.
I call it "Lawn-Chair Style."
Now, the Z doesn't bind, the chips and sawdust fall through the gap, and things are peachy. Plus, it's different.
My Mach3 Computer and Deepgroove G540 box.
A more conventional angle.
I just need to save up for some Rhino/STL compatible CAM software, and I'll be cutting chips soon.
My thanks to John at Microcarve, again, for his patience and excellent craftsmanship.
And Amazon Prime and Faztek, for enabling me to order 97" sticks of aluminum extrusion to my doorstep with free shipping.
Best,
JBR
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I think those solid brass couplers are a mistake. Unless you've got everything aligned perfectly, they'll eventually snap the shafts off your motors. Try replacing them with Oldham-style flexible couplers.
[FONT=Verdana]Andrew Werby[/FONT]
[URL="http://www.computersculpture.com/"]Website[/URL]
The solid brass couplers i've used for over 9 years now...many 10's of thousands of them....and
I'm aware of many 10's of thousands more....are Not a mistake.
I've seen a single instance in all that time of a motor shaft actually breaking due to "misalignment"
of the couplings I use....and with all the years and sheer number of couplings in use, I'm in
serious doubt that it was the coupling that actually was the cause. A very sudden binding on an axis
could very well have been what happened.
I've seen 4-5 instances of motors shafts *cracking off* due to bad welds on some motors that
were shipping several years ago. It wouldn't have mattered how well the machine was aligned
or how expensive the coupling was. it was just inevitable. They weren't always straight shaft
couplings in use either....some were flexible couplers.
I make those couplings because it's in my hands to align them before my assemblies ship. I test
run them from different batches of parts to be assured they're aligned properly.
There are reasons i do that. I'm just one person and it takes a Great Deal of time to make
my parts. I avoid having support issues and expenses when i do take a few extra minutes
to double check and and test my assemblies so I can avoid sitting on the internet for hours
answering questions that often have nothing whatsoever to do with any part i made.
I've tried to bend to the popular notion that flexible couplings are somehow..."better". It's
an idea that has some problems if the applications are for extremely fine detailed work
such as engraving, jewelry and die/mold making.
I bought and tried those cheap Chinese things people are using. Batches of them vary
wildly and are exceptionally unpredictable.
People are also very cost conscious with DIYing anything. High quality (consistent) couplers
are not by any means in-expensive. They can add over $150 easily to the cost of a DIY
machine.
I've run support forums and groups for my 9 years of 365 day a year work where i would have
have long long ago be completely aware of any problems with parts and assemblies I make.
And I can absolutely assure anyone reading this that I would have done something to correct
any potential problems.
I take a lot of pride in my work and I do Not send out designs with mistakes in them.
I don't need the support issues. I use that extra time to put into my work and make highly
reliable and consistent assemblies that are in use all over the world.
If someone wants to use those junk Chinese things...more power to them. If they want to
pay the price and use high quality parts...they'll have better luck. But there's not a single thing
wrong with the assemblies and parts that i make. If there were, I'd have know about it long ago.
John Hansford
microcarve.com
I've run everything at 80 ipm, without a wobble or shudder. No problems encountered.
Ok, then. They stay.
Thanks for the clarification, John.
Best,
JBR
Slightly better pics.
Best,
JBR
Been away for a while sculpting and writing. Sorry for the thread necromancy.
I have reconfigured my Lawnchair CNC prototyper, as well as added a lathe and mill from Precision Matthews to the machining cave.
Here's the blog link.
John Bear Ross: CNC Prototyper Update 2017, Part 2
Movie and pics are there.
Best,
JBR
I like the idea of using 2 'Z Axis' units as X and Y. Neat machine!
Part 3. First Cuts to level the spoilboard. MDF everywhere!
4 Youtube videos at the link.
John Bear Ross: CNC Prototyper Update 2017, Part 3
Best,
JBR
- - - Updated - - -
My cheapie CNC enclosure. PVC and shower curtains. I managed to keep it around $40 USD.
John Bear Ross: CNC Prototyper 2017 Update, Part 4
Best,
JBR
Installed a new anti-backlash nut in the X axis after the old one bound up.
My thanks to John at Microcarve for the quick response and shipping.
Best,
JBR
First major prototype!
So, I am experimenting with CNC prototyping a heavy grav tank for 1/100 scale modeling and wargaming. It looks like this in Rhino3d...
I'm going to machine up the turret for my CNC test run.
Here's the result of the roughing pass...
Here's the final result...
Lot of in-progress Youtube vids here at the blog link...
John Bear Ross: Grav Tank 4: CNC Machining The Turret
Best,
JBR
Vid of completed part.
NICE!