Reply with QuoteG'day TurnTex
How far away is your gantry from the proximity switch trigger Before it triggers.?
Improvement for anyone using a CNC Router Parts machine with prox limit switches
I am a new CNC user and just completed my CNC Router Parts CRP4848 build. When I bought the kit, I went ahead and sprung for their proximity limit switch kit as well. I really like them but hated the metal brackets they send with them. I was constantly bumping them and then my switches would be out of place and not work.
So, for one of my first real projects on the machine, I sat down and came up with a new bracket and thought someone else might benefit from them. They were cut from 3/16" acrylic since that is what I had on hand as scraps! They work awesome and have just enough give in the acrylic that if I mess up and hit the limits when jogging a little too hard, they will give and not break. You will have to change out the bumper screws since they will not be long enough with the new brackets but that is simple.
Anyway, here are some pictures of what they look like installed on my machine.
I have attached the dxf file if anyone wants to use it.
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Curtis O. Seebeck
TurnTex Woodworks
G'day TurnTex
How far away is your gantry from the proximity switch trigger Before it triggers.?
You would be better off putting them at a 90* angle so there is no chance of it crashing into the sensor. At least that's how its done on most automation equipment.
My CRP 48 x 48 build [URL=]http://www.cnczone.com/forums/open_source_cnc_machine_designs/144173-crp_4x4.html[/URL]
I purchased 5 prox switches on ebay cheap and they have been working perfect..I used a spring to keep in place but allow the gantry to hit the stops without damaging the sensors..works great!
+1Originally Posted by vtx1029
While you see it here quite often, you never want to mount sensors or switches in a position where they'll be destroyed if some type of electronic failure occurs.
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]
Mach3 2010 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
[URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
Guys, they are behind the bumpers on my machine. The bumpers stop the machine before they can destroy the switches. If my switches were to get damaged, I would have MUCH more significant problems as the entire gantry would be sitting on the floor after breaking my bumpers and jumping ship! Besides, I was posting this to share with other CNC Router Parts builders. The bracket that is supplied with their switches is in the exact same position mine are in, mine are just improvements. Besides, you guys sure know how to poo poo on someone's parade when they are proud of their first completely designed and manufactured part!I was proud of my part and wanted to share with other CNCRP builders in case they were not thrilled with the bracket provided!
I do appreciate everyone's insight nontheless!
Curtis O. Seebeck
TurnTex Woodworks
Correct me if I'm wrong, but in the picture, it appears that the carriage is nearly touching the switch, and if the carriage were to hit the bumpers, the switch would be hit first.Guys, they are behind the bumpers on my machine.
Looking at it again, it appears that your nicely machined brackets might even break rather than the switch.
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]
Mach3 2010 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
[URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
Yes, the carriage is nearly touching the switch. However, the carriage is on the bumpers in the picture. If I hit the bumpers hard, it may push back the switch. However, the acrylic has a lot of give to it and will also bend back. Besides, if it does break the bracket, I still have the plans to make more! I believe that it would break the bracket before it breaks the switch which would be desirable.
Like I said, I am new to all of this. This is my absolute first introduction to CNC and my brackets seem to be working great. All I did was replace the brackets provided with the CNC Router Parts proximity limit switch kit. The switches are in the exact same position they put them in. I don't know how it would work out to try to mount them 90° to the carriage. I will just use them as they are and if they break, make new ones. It would take a pretty severe hit on the bumpers to cause them to bend enough to break, though.
Curtis O. Seebeck
TurnTex Woodworks
Sorry I was not trying to poo poo your idea and first part. Well done on that account. Just saying that you will have less problems having them mounted at 90*. You can end up scrapping a lot of stuff if you use your sensors to square your gantry and they are off. You can put them thru the spoil board from the bottom up if that makes sense. They will be out of the way from getting bumped from you and the carriages. Your sensors should work fine at a 90* and may actually be more repeatable.
My CRP 48 x 48 build [URL=]http://www.cnczone.com/forums/open_source_cnc_machine_designs/144173-crp_4x4.html[/URL]
Don't worry, my feeling weren't hurt at all! I appreciate the dialogue. Since your sig shows that you built a CRP 4848, do you, by any chance, have pictures of how you mounted yours? I would love to see them to get other ideas.
Curtis O. Seebeck
TurnTex Woodworks
I posted pictures of them on page 5 of this thread. http://www.cnczone.com/forums/open_s...ml#post1151233 They are homemade hall switches.
My CRP 48 x 48 build [URL=]http://www.cnczone.com/forums/open_source_cnc_machine_designs/144173-crp_4x4.html[/URL]
