I would like to say Thank you Louie for starting this thread and Thank you Gerry for your input on various bits I just purchased some from E bay Onsrudcutter2010 and saved some big $$.
Lou
drillman is a good example of someone on eBay who sells high quality bits for a good price. I've purchased from him, and shipping was very fast.
If you buy bits locally, try Freud Diablo (red), Bosch (blue), CMT (orange), or Porter Cable (darker red). I've had good luck with Sears Craftsman bits. Stay away from any Ryobi bits (blue). I've had nothing but bad luck with them. You can even find Whiteside (no paint) at some woodworking stores.
One reason of starting this thread was to make others aware of these quality brands, and that you can get them for a lot less than you think, and maybe only a slight premium over the cheap Chinese stuff. Solid carbide bit bblanks are sintered, meaning the blanks are made from powdered material compressed with high heat to form the blank. With the more reputable companies, the quality control on these blanks are quite high. Who knows with these cheap imports? I've had more break than I could count.
I would like to say Thank you Louie for starting this thread and Thank you Gerry for your input on various bits I just purchased some from E bay Onsrudcutter2010 and saved some big $$.
Lou
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cnc-router-table-machines/140832-cnc-software.html
Thanks Louie for both your replies, they have extended my knowledge greatly. I'll just buy a few bits at first and then get what I need when I need them.
Being in Australia I am dependant upon ebay and US suppliers that will ship internationally. For my initial local purchases I will be buying HSS bits from McJing in Sydney (McJING Online Tools Products Search) as carbide bits are way to expensive here. For US based suppliers I found these guys: Cutting Tools Source End Mills Cutting Tools Custom End Mills CNC Machine Tools Burrs & Drills who make all their own bits out of solid carbide. I might grab a few from there too unless someone advises against it. As for other US suppliers, I'll just use Google to find them again unless people have recommended suppliers they use frequently. I'll also order from drillman for the smaller bits as I need them.
Cheers
Bruce
I've seen a few people say they pocket out any internal cutouts, to avoid moving material and broken bits.
I wonder what the difference is from wanting to keep the small cut outs, if you were making lots of small parts, for instance ?
Are Tabs the way to go, or the 'onion skin' method of not cutting all the way through , or both ?
Surely pocketing is just making more dust, and creating more wear on the cutters ?
My 1st Build (ongoing) http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cnc_router_table_machines/134670-one_big_one_smaller_my.html
I've never used tabs. I prefer the onion skin approach myself.
I also never pocket out cutouts, but I can see Louie's point if the cutouts are phenolic.
But, I don't use bit's any smaller than 1/4" when cutting out parts, so breakage from loose wood cutouts isn't really an issue.
Small parts can be very tricky, and different parts can require different methods
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]
Mach3 2010 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
[URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
so should I not be too worried about my 1/4" spirals ?
They've shot a few bits off the table , but been ok so far.
Rich
My 1st Build (ongoing) http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cnc_router_table_machines/134670-one_big_one_smaller_my.html
I have used tabs on Acrylic when the protective film is gone never on a wood project but I am a newbie...
Lou
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cnc-router-table-machines/140832-cnc-software.html
Gerry to note, I snapped a 3/8" bit, which was carbide body with PCD tips!
There are a few thoughts on this. It really depends on what you're doing.
For harder materials, pocketing may be the way to go. Especially if it's a long run with many holes. You might think that you're wearing the bit more but it may not be necessarily true. If you pocket and use a large enough bit, you can take deeper cuts, even through cuts, and take more aggressive rough cuts. You'll generate less heat since you're cuting more on the edge of the tool which is way more efficient than the bottom. The finish pass would then be the full depth profile. You'll actually get better tolerances this way, and it's the way they do it in metals. Some CAM (even Cut2D) have rest machining for pocket clearance as well. If you profile cut the holes, you'd normally have lower doc since you have full width bit engagement. You're climb cutting on one side and conventional on the other, so the bit wants to move toward the conventional side. If your machine is not super-ridgid, you'll have tolerance issues. I understand m machine is not the stiffest, therefore to achieve a certain tolerance, I run finish pass on 'mission critical' features.
For larger holes, it may be beneficial to do a drill op on the center of the holes and fix the soon-to-be slugs down with screws, before cutting the profiles out. Another way would be to onion skin with a larger bit, then come back with a smaller bit to profile cut the rest out. The smaller bit won't grab as much, and the onion skin will prevent the slug form binding the bit. Yet another way, and probably only worthwile if you had to do a large run, or have many holes, is either to raise the workpiece, or create a fixture with pockets or holes, this way the slugs fall down and out of the way. Yet another way would be to tack the slugs down with a 23ga pinner.
I had to cut out some letters out of thin gauge (1/16") brass sheet. The best way I found was to glue the sheet down with CA glue, let it cure, profile cut the letters, then remove them with acetone. I tried spray adhesive but there is always a little 'creep' and the glue gums up the bits. Plus if you spray a tiny bit of lubricant it will work under the letters and pop them out and ruin them. I got the tip from Ron Reed at precisebits.com.
But yes, when cutting out holes, you'll have to assess the situation and consider the tools you need when deciding whether to pocket or profile.
Believe it or not, I've kept the bottom film on Mic-6 aluminum plate and have profile cut right to the film, keeping the part in place, though I've only done this on a couple pieces.
You might want to use tabs on a 3D relief, like an ornamental, where there are intricate details that may get lost or not be as crisp by sanding the onion skin off.
I did that the other day it don't happen to often but it was cool I lifted it right out all that stayed was the film..
Lou
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cnc-router-table-machines/140832-cnc-software.html
Louie I am subscribed to your you tube channel I really enjoy the videos what did you use to carve the aluminum Harley Davidson logo? Some great work I was showing my wife and Daughter they really like the videos as well.
Lou
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cnc-router-table-machines/140832-cnc-software.html
I really like this Amana spoilboard cutter. The inserts are 2 bucks a piece and they have 4 edges.
Buy my Multicam!
Louie thanks for the information I forgot to ask you what spindle speed and feed rate?
My wife and Daughter have a embroidery machine and are in to basically the same thing but the use fabric so this is up there alley
Lou
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cnc-router-table-machines/140832-cnc-software.html