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Thread: Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses

  1. #37
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    Excellent thread, being a newbie at this myself it is good to see what others use.

    Seeing as I broke my only 1/4 downcut spiral bit, what would be a recommended starter "pack" for MDF and ply. I am thinking a couple of 3mm end bits, a 6mm end bit, 60 and 90 degree Vee bits and 2 & 3mm ball end bits. Sound reasonable for someone just starting out and on a budget?

    Cheers
    Bruce



  2. #38
    Community Moderator ger21's Avatar
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    My recommendation would by bits you need, rather than a set. When you buy a set, you usually end up with bits you never use.

    For small bits, like 3mm and smaller, get them from China on Ebay, where they are dirt cheap.

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
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    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  3. #39
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    Thanks Gerry

    By "set" I just meant a collection of bits to buy. My list is pretty much what I *think* i would need - 3mm for cutting out things like the puzzles and small holes, 6mm for profiling etc, Vee bits for carving the ubiquitous Myan calendars etc and ball ends for smoothing.

    I'll check out ebay for small bits, I seem to remember someone recommending drillman (or similar) for them. Initially I will have to buy locally (A$$$$$$$$$) but at least they will be me started while I wait for the ebay purchases.

    Cheers
    Bruce



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    Quote Originally Posted by racedirector View Post
    Excellent thread, being a newbie at this myself it is good to see what others use.

    Seeing as I broke my only 1/4 downcut spiral bit, what would be a recommended starter "pack" for MDF and ply. I am thinking a couple of 3mm end bits, a 6mm end bit, 60 and 90 degree Vee bits and 2 & 3mm ball end bits. Sound reasonable for someone just starting out and on a budget?

    Cheers
    Bruce
    Like Gerry says, when you need it, that's when you buy it (and it's subsequent spares.)

    For wood and wood products I've been using single edge spiral-o-flutes for 1/8" and 1/16" sizes with great results. Especially with smaller routers they run better at higher RPMs, they really work well. The upcut cuts very clean in MDF and plywood. I bought 10 Kyocera 1/8" spiral-o's for $29, and this is a relatively high quality import brand. Onsrud typically sale up some metric sizes in their auctions.

    If you can't find single edge spiral-o flutes inexpensively, you can look into single edge straight flute bits, which are more common. Agan the theory is the same; with only one flute, the flute is larger and has more clearance for chips; and you can run them at higher RPMs without burning your material.

    Cheap V-bits are hit-or-miss. I've yet to find consistant quality from them. This is one reason I turned to Amana's insert V-bits. Perfect point, sharpenable, and reversible. They cost a lot, bu the replacement inserts are reasonably priced. I've waited for cheap bits in the mail, only to find out that I can't use them and then have to buy a good one anyway.

    I say, don't be afraid to break a good bit. In fact, using a good bit is incentive enough to chech and double check your setup before you press Start. Of course accidents will occur, but by being careful and sure you minimize them. And you end up wit better quality work with better bits.



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    Quote Originally Posted by racedirector View Post
    Thanks Gerry

    By "set" I just meant a collection of bits to buy. My list is pretty much what I *think* i would need - 3mm for cutting out things like the puzzles and small holes, 6mm for profiling etc, Vee bits for carving the ubiquitous Myan calendars etc and ball ends for smoothing.

    I'll check out ebay for small bits, I seem to remember someone recommending drillman (or similar) for them. Initially I will have to buy locally (A$$$$$$$$$) but at least they will be me started while I wait for the ebay purchases.

    Cheers
    Bruce
    drillman is a good example of someone on eBay who sells high quality bits for a good price. I've purchased from him, and shipping was very fast.

    If you buy bits locally, try Freud Diablo (red), Bosch (blue), CMT (orange), or Porter Cable (darker red). I've had good luck with Sears Craftsman bits. Stay away from any Ryobi bits (blue). I've had nothing but bad luck with them. You can even find Whiteside (no paint) at some woodworking stores.

    One reason of starting this thread was to make others aware of these quality brands, and that you can get them for a lot less than you think, and maybe only a slight premium over the cheap Chinese stuff. Solid carbide bit bblanks are sintered, meaning the blanks are made from powdered material compressed with high heat to form the blank. With the more reputable companies, the quality control on these blanks are quite high. Who knows with these cheap imports? I've had more break than I could count.



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    Registered LouF's Avatar
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    I would like to say Thank you Louie for starting this thread and Thank you Gerry for your input on various bits I just purchased some from E bay Onsrudcutter2010 and saved some big $$.


    Lou

    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cnc-router-table-machines/140832-cnc-software.html


  7. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by louieatienza View Post
    drillman is a good example of someone on eBay who sells high quality bits for a good price. I've purchased from him, and shipping was very fast.

    If you buy bits locally, try Freud Diablo (red), Bosch (blue), CMT (orange), or Porter Cable (darker red). I've had good luck with Sears Craftsman bits. Stay away from any Ryobi bits (blue). I've had nothing but bad luck with them. You can even find Whiteside (no paint) at some woodworking stores.

    One reason of starting this thread was to make others aware of these quality brands, and that you can get them for a lot less than you think, and maybe only a slight premium over the cheap Chinese stuff. Solid carbide bit bblanks are sintered, meaning the blanks are made from powdered material compressed with high heat to form the blank. With the more reputable companies, the quality control on these blanks are quite high. Who knows with these cheap imports? I've had more break than I could count.
    Thanks Louie for both your replies, they have extended my knowledge greatly. I'll just buy a few bits at first and then get what I need when I need them.

    Being in Australia I am dependant upon ebay and US suppliers that will ship internationally. For my initial local purchases I will be buying HSS bits from McJing in Sydney (McJING Online Tools Products Search) as carbide bits are way to expensive here. For US based suppliers I found these guys: Cutting Tools Source End Mills Cutting Tools Custom End Mills CNC Machine Tools Burrs & Drills who make all their own bits out of solid carbide. I might grab a few from there too unless someone advises against it. As for other US suppliers, I'll just use Google to find them again unless people have recommended suppliers they use frequently. I'll also order from drillman for the smaller bits as I need them.

    Cheers
    Bruce



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    I've seen a few people say they pocket out any internal cutouts, to avoid moving material and broken bits.
    I wonder what the difference is from wanting to keep the small cut outs, if you were making lots of small parts, for instance ?
    Are Tabs the way to go, or the 'onion skin' method of not cutting all the way through , or both ?

    Surely pocketing is just making more dust, and creating more wear on the cutters ?

    My 1st Build (ongoing) http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cnc_router_table_machines/134670-one_big_one_smaller_my.html


  9. #45
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    I've never used tabs. I prefer the onion skin approach myself.

    I also never pocket out cutouts, but I can see Louie's point if the cutouts are phenolic.
    But, I don't use bit's any smaller than 1/4" when cutting out parts, so breakage from loose wood cutouts isn't really an issue.

    Small parts can be very tricky, and different parts can require different methods

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  10. #46
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    so should I not be too worried about my 1/4" spirals ?

    They've shot a few bits off the table , but been ok so far.

    Rich

    My 1st Build (ongoing) http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cnc_router_table_machines/134670-one_big_one_smaller_my.html


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    Quote Originally Posted by TrickyCNC View Post
    so should I not be too worried about my 1/4" spirals ?

    They've shot a few bits off the table , but been ok so far.

    Rich
    I suppose that depends how ridgid your machine is. If the cutout gets jammed then some deflection could happen.

    I use tabs most of the time but I get a cleaner cut when I use the onion skin method. My z axis alignment must be a bit off.



  12. #48
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    I have used tabs on Acrylic when the protective film is gone never on a wood project but I am a newbie...

    Lou

    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cnc-router-table-machines/140832-cnc-software.html


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Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses
Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses