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Thread: Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses

  1. #25
    Registered LouF's Avatar
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    Louie, good stuff a lot of information I have been using White Side bits they seem to last what are your thoughts on them?

    Lou

    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cnc-router-table-machines/140832-cnc-software.html


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    Community Moderator ger21's Avatar
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    If you can't get new 1/4" bits for less than $15, then go ahead and sharpen them.
    I just bought 8 or 9 new ones for $7 each, which is cheaper than sharpening. I also have about 15 sharpened 1/4" bits from when my previous employer closed it's doors, so I should be good for a while.

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  3. #27
    Registered LouF's Avatar
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    Gerry where do you get them that cheap?

    Lou

    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cnc-router-table-machines/140832-cnc-software.html


  4. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by LouF View Post
    Louie, good stuff a lot of information I have been using White Side bits they seem to last what are your thoughts on them?

    Lou
    They're high quality bits, and I used to buy them locally when I had my shop. They are the Fine Woodworking favorite brand, and the recommended brand for the IncraJig system, which I also have (and am looking to sell).

    I've never tried Whiteside bits on the CNC, however...



  5. #29
    Community Moderator ger21's Avatar
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    Here's a few that I use.

    First one's what I use for my spoilboard. 2-1/4" diameter. It's just like a slot cutter, without the bearing. I got it used for free, and cut the shank down with a grinder, as it was 4" long. It needs a little cleaning. Vortex sells something similar, but they're not cheap.

    Second one is a 1/4" "O" flute that I use for plastics. Works great for plexiglass, no melting. Sorry about the blurry picture. Got it from CNC Toybox.

    Third one is just what you need to cut through 1" board in one pass at 1200ipm and 15,000rpm. 3 flute coated compression from Onsrud. Just got 7 of them in the mail today.
    When cutting laminated particle board, the laminate is so abrasive that a good size groove will wear into the tool in as little as 20-30 sheets. I've cut 80 sheets with one coated tool without ay wear grooves.

    Fourth one is a 2 flute upcut chipbreaker from Onsrud. Great for hardwoods and hard plywoods, as they cut with much less power required than a standard spiral bit. These are also really good for cutting deep mortises.

    Last pic is about $1200 worth of router bits.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses-bits-002-jpg   Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses-bits-004-jpg   Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses-bits-007-jpg   Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses-bits-008-jpg  

    Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses-bits-009-jpg  
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  6. #30
    Registered LouF's Avatar
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    Gerry, I am going to try out that 1/4" "O" flute for plastics I have been using a 2 flute up cut spiral for cutting acrylic not the right one but that is what I have on hand..

    Lou

    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cnc-router-table-machines/140832-cnc-software.html


  7. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by ger21 View Post
    Here's a few that I use.

    First one's what I use for my spoilboard. 2-1/4" diameter. It's just like a slot cutter, without the bearing. I got it used for free, and cut the shank down with a grinder, as it was 4" long. It needs a little cleaning. Vortex sells something similar, but they're not cheap.

    Second one is a 1/4" "O" flute that I use for plastics. Works great for plexiglass, no melting. Sorry about the blurry picture. Got it from CNC Toybox.

    Third one is just what you need to cut through 1" board in one pass at 1200ipm and 15,000rpm. 3 flute coated compression from Onsrud. Just got 7 of them in the mail today.
    When cutting laminated particle board, the laminate is so abrasive that a good size groove will wear into the tool in as little as 20-30 sheets. I've cut 80 sheets with one coated tool without ay wear grooves.

    Fourth one is a 2 flute upcut chipbreaker from Onsrud. Great for hardwoods and hard plywoods, as they cut with much less power required than a standard spiral bit. These are also really good for cutting deep mortises.

    Last pic is about $1200 worth of router bits.
    The coated bit is Onsrud's Marathon compression spiral. The coating supposedly makes the edge harder and protects it from high heat. They also come in 2-flute.

    Onsrud also makes a specialty router bit, made for polishing the edge of acrylics to near-optically-clear. The price... over $1800!

    Gerry you may have to try out these PCD endmills. I just did one run for a client, pocketing over 85 holes and profiled about 40 pieces in fiberglass-reinforced phenolic (Garolite G10 black), and the bit looks like I hadn't cut with it yet. The bits I used were Onsrud PCD SERF. I did pick up a couple RobbJack PCD bits with straight, smooth flutes for melamine.

    I used to regularly break down and cut whole skids of melamine by hand; we didn't even have a sliding tablesaw. I built a long sawhorse with rollers for cross-cutting full sheets. I would go through gloves like no tomorrow; the edges of the melamine are razor-sharp! We did retrofit a scoring attachment on our old Powermatic 70.

    Last edited by louieatienza; 03-29-2012 at 02:32 AM.


  8. #32
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    I'm not ready to spend a lot on bits yet.

    I worry about operator error, and broken bits ! Forgetting to turn on the router before starting the cut seems like it would be an easy mistake. but I'm getting better at the routine

    I might have to try US-Ebay, as we only have cheap ones from china it seems.

    Rich

    My 1st Build (ongoing) http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cnc_router_table_machines/134670-one_big_one_smaller_my.html


  9. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by TrickyCNC View Post
    I'm not ready to spend a lot on bits yet.

    I worry about operator error, and broken bits ! Forgetting to turn on the router before starting the cut seems like it would be an easy mistake. but I'm getting better at the routine

    I might have to try US-Ebay, as we only have cheap ones from china it seems.

    Rich
    Rich, search Onsrud on eBay, they regularly blow out high-end bits for pennies on the dollar. If I had to pay retail for all the Onsrud bits I own it would be at least $4000, but I think I've only spent a couple hundred total!

    Never fear breaking a bit, it will eventually happen, and for any reason. I own four Onsrud PCD SERF bits. I paid $49 for each, they retail for $620. There's nothing better I found for cutting Garolite. But the first sheet I cut, there was a dropoff that jammed the kerf and I susequently snapped the first bit. Could you imagine if I paid retail?! But lesson learned, and I now pocket out any area that would potentially leave dropoff, and even pocket out all the holes instead of profiling them, so that I eliminate the possiblility of a jam.

    I usually don't have a problem with this since the bit usually cuts through a slug, but with this hard-to-cut stuff it became an issue. But if I didn't break the first bit I wouldn't havev learned to adjust my cutting for the particular material.



  10. #34
    Community Moderator ger21's Avatar
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    Rich, search Onsrud on eBay,
    They only ship to the US.

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  11. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by ger21 View Post
    They only ship to the US.
    :/

    oh well !

    Rich

    My 1st Build (ongoing) http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cnc_router_table_machines/134670-one_big_one_smaller_my.html


  12. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by TrickyCNC View Post
    :/

    oh well !

    Rich
    That sux though there are suppliers there in the UK I'm sure you'll find a good source!



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Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses
Router Bits and EndMills: Pictures, Descriptions, and Uses