Rob's 'Evolution' router

[robe_uk]

Another project I did was to make a stool for the garage/workshop, I really like the look of the Squash Me Chair by Ross Graham.

I had an old office chair swivel base so it was only the seat part I had to make, I used 18mm plywood I had in stock, although I ended up not using squash balls as it would have pushed the cost above what I was willing to pay for something for the garage I used foam pipe insulation which turned out the work well enough.

Each seat slat is separated by a round spacer and 22mm wooden dowel goes through the lot and friction fit holds it all together, the dowel and spacers are separated from the slats by the foam insulation allowing movement of the slats up and down, quite comfy.
Picture 5 shows the bracket used to attach to the swivel base.

The pictures show how it goes together but ask if you have any questions.

Rob

[ger21]

I thought when I homed it would move all axis at once but it does Z then Y followed by X+A.

In the back of the 2010 Screenset manual, I have instructions on modifying the homing to do whatever you want. If you can't figure it out, shoot me an email and I'll get you going.

[robe_uk]

Thanks Gerry, being a typical man the manual is the last place i think to look

I'll have a look later.

Cheers Rob

[robe_uk]

Few more pictures of my machine,

1. Worktop after holes being drilled, each hole has a threaded insert.

2. Switch for the cross hair laser mounted on router plate, also probe plugs in here.

3. Cross hair laser, probe plate(zeroing plate?) and xbox controller.

4. Home switch for Y axis.

5. Fixed block for zeroing tools during tool change macro. You can see the spoil board on top of my work surface.

I haven't installed any limit switches on my machine although I do have an extra parallel port card fitted to the computer I think I will just use soft-limits for the time being.

[robe_uk]

Been busy with other projects but I've made a sign for a friend and had a go at 3d carving with file from vector art 3d. Over all quite happy but will have to look into why am getting tool marks on the carving, anyone any ideas.

[DonFrambach]

I assume that the objectionable toolmarks are in the last two pictures. Looks to me like the step value was too high. I find best results with a stepover of 6-9% of the diameter of the ball mill I use for finish cutting. What tooling and cut parameters did you use?

[Phife]

Been busy with other projects but I've made a sign for a friend and had a go at 3d carving with file from vector art 3d. Over all quite happy but will have to look into why am getting tool marks on the carving, anyone any ideas.

Probably getting tool marks from too high a stepover, or wrong kind of bit, What are you using for the 3d work? it should be a ballnose bit.

[robe_uk]

I used a 1/8 ballnose, software was vector 3d machinist on default settings, I'll try reducing step over to see how it goes, thanks lads

[louieatienza]

I used a 1/8 ballnose, software was vector 3d machinist on default settings, I'll try reducing step over to see how it goes, thanks lads

You could create a toolpath with a larger tool, the fre-toolpath with a smaller tool and stepover; this will reduce cutting force at the tool tip....

[robe_uk]

sorry louieatienza not sure I follow what you mean.

I had a look at the default setting of VectorArt 3d machinist and the default step over is 20%, I'll reduce this down to about 6% and try it.
Thanks again lads

Rob

[louieatienza]

sorry louieatienza not sure I follow what you mean.

I had a look at the default setting of VectorArt 3d machinist and the default step over is 20%, I'll reduce this down to about 6% and try it.
Thanks again lads

Rob

Runit in two passes (make 2 g-codes). Run the first with maybe a 1/4" ballnose and the 20% stepover, then create a second with your 1/8" ballnose and maybe even 5% stepover. You can run the 1/4" bit at a higher feedrate to hog out the material, and then you can run the 1/8" at a higher feedrate since you're not doing full depth cuts with it.

[robe_uk]

thanks louieatienza i understand now, for this model I just used the one pass as that is what is shown in the demo videos on the vector art 3d site using this model, but you are right and I will use two tool paths for a larger model.

I redid the flower using 6% step over 1/8'' bit with one pass and the finish was a lot better, took about 25minutes to complete, what sort of times do others get?

I used an oak floor board and will have to look into ways to stain/finish to make it 'pop', any suggestions.

Rob

[robe_uk]

Hi again, as usual I've been very poor at keeping up with my log

So what have I been at, well bits n pieces and not a lot. I haven't looked and any more 3d carving since last post but I will when time allows. I've done a few signs for people/family/friends but nothing that pays and also carved into our garden bench.

[robe_uk]

Hmmm what else,

I finally made a hotwire cnc foam cutter, this is something that I have wanted to make for several years and I made the push and got on with it. I thought it was worth a mention as I 'borrowed' cnc router parts design for my linear bearing. I cut them out of 25mm plastic material, I forget the actual type it is as i bought it years ago. The thread for the foam cutter is here and might be of interest to some. Typically now that it is made I've done next to nothing with it once I get more time am sure i'll make use of it

cutting bearing block


first hotwire cut

[robe_uk]

My latest project was an arcade machine for my kids, I used the cnc to cut out the parts then it was a matter of assembling,

Picture,
1 is a unit i made for my daughters tv/dvd/wii
2 side panel
3 control panel being cut out
4 front of arcade machine
5 back of arcade machine with sub woofer

cutting side of arcade machine, slow as I was losing steps in Y again


cutting control panel

[robe_uk]

As I mentioned before I seem to lose steps on my Y axis, I have to slow it way down to be reliable but then it is annoying watching it (acceleration also turned down), I have never been able to work out exactly what the problem was but i suspect a combination of weak motor and wrong gearing (4:1) so I took a gamble and bought a motor with the specs below from ebay, and I also changed the gearing to 3:1.
I have been able to cut the back panels of the arcade machine at 2000mm/min with no loss of steps which makes me happy

New Nema 23 stepper motor 425 oz.in 3.0A 112mm CNC/MILL JS1819

Features:.
Step Accuracy: +5%
Temperature Rise: 80℃ Max
Ambient Temperature Range: -20℃~ +50℃
Insulation Resistance: 100Mω Min.50V DC
Dielectric Strength: 500V AC 1minute
Step Angel: 1.8 Degree
Motor Length: 56mm
Rate Voltage: 3.6V
Rate Current: 2A
Phase Resistence: 1.8ω
Phase Inducatance: 2.5mH
Holding Torque: 129/90 (N.cm)
Lead Wire: 6
Rotor Inertia: 300g.cm²
Motoer Weight: 0.7kg

[dodger889]

Your video is set to private So we can not see them.

[robe_uk]

Your video is set to private So we can not see them.

Oops must be the default setting, changed now, not that u where missing much lol

[robe_uk]

I've been admiring all the aztec calenders people have been doing over the years and thought it was about time I had a go myself
The diameter is 35cm across and I used and 90 degree bit. turned out ok once I applied stain but some detail has been lost due to the shallow cut depth, I zero'd z in the middle of the work piece which may have been bowed up slightly and maybe if I used a 60 degree bit the cuts may have been deeper.

Short clip of cutting (very short lol)


Took 2.5hrs to cut so maybe I could look at increasing acceleration 'if' I get motivation to try again.

[robe_uk]

Couple for my latest projects have been celtic cross's cut in mdf and then stained. Basically I slap the stain on and wipe the excess off with a rag, the uncut surface of the mdf doesn't take the stain as quickly as the cut surfaces so you get the nice contrast with minimal effort.

oh and the obligatory cutting video



Edit: the cross with the names is 60cm tall and the other is 30cm, 18mm mdf