LVL or Steel base??

[ger21]

I would think that to take maximum advantage of the LVL frame, that you'd want to bolt the extrusion tightly to the LVL, rather than just using brackets.

How about using long carriage bolts (4-6"?) from the bottom slot, and routing pockets in the side to attach nuts to the carriage bolts?

[bobmagnuson]

The carriage bolt idea is great, wish I would have thought to ask before the entire thing was assembled. It's almost impossible to put in the pockets for the nuts now.

What about using something like a model #3379 end fastener and screw that to the LVL. Slide the 1530 onto them and tighten the screws down through access holes drilled through the 1530.

Or even a button head socket cap screw similar to the carriage bolt idea but tightened through a hole drilled in through the extrusion?

[CURVEDMTL]

Bob,
Just a thought, how about getting 2 lvl's, the same as the outer ones, and bolt to the outside of where you have the 1bys at, and leave a gap for say 1/2'' to let your carriage bolts go all the way through. You could use carriage bolts and then coupling nuts to get the lenght,and then tighten from the bottom,with maybe a small square plate,to keep enerything pulled down, Nice and Tight. Hate to see all that Hard Work Go To The WaySide,and would'nt harm the apperence,only you would know.. A Real Great Build, and Best to You.

[vtx1029]

How about using a cross dowel in the LVL?

[bobmagnuson]

How about using a cross dowel in the LVL?

Can you explain how your thinking it would be implemented?

[vtx1029]

Drill a hole in the side of the LVL and insert a steel cross dowel and a intersecting hole on the top of the LVL for a screw to tighten the 8020 to the LVL.

Zinc Plated 1/4 in.-20 x 16mm Cross Dowel Nut Type D (4 Pieces)-54554 at The Home Depot

Drill a clearance hole in the 8020 from the top to tighten down a screw slid down the bottom slot of the 8020

[PaulRowntree]

Drill a hole in the side of the LVL and insert a steel cross dowel and a intersecting hole on the top of the LVL for a screw to tighten the 8020 to the LVL.

Zinc Plated 1/4 in.-20 x 16mm Cross Dowel Nut Type D (4 Pieces)-54554 at The Home Depot

Drill a clearance hole in the 8020 from the top to tighten down a screw slid down the bottom slot of the 8020

From the HD webpage
This item cannot be shipped to the following state(s): AK,HI

Any idea why these cross dowels can't be shipped to Arkansas or Hawaii? What do they think they will do with them there (and nowhere else, apparently)

[bobmagnuson]

I see where your going.

I found these on McMaster... 90835A110 & 90835A210 which would work. Also found this... 90835A410 which may have enough hold.

[ger21]

The carriage bolt idea is great, wish I would have thought to ask before the entire thing was assembled. It's almost impossible to put in the pockets for the nuts now.

How far in do they need to go? You can remove most of the material by drilling, and use a long straight bit in a plunge router to remove the rest of the material. All you really need is a slot.

[bobmagnuson]

The slots would have to be about 1 1/4 deep and probably 3-4" long to allow enough room to tighten the nut.

Now that I think about it, it is doable and probably no more costly or labor intensive than the other options. It would be a stronger connection as well.

How many do you think I would need per 12' side?

[ger21]

Any idea why these cross dowels can't be shipped to Arkansas ........

Alaska Arkansas is AR

[PaulRowntree]

Silly Canuck ! It is SOOOOO much easier having only 10 provinces (+3 territories) to remember.

On top of understanding US geography better, I also (sort of) understand the delivery issue.

[bobmagnuson]

I suppose slow progress is better than no progress.

I was able to get the 1530 extrusions installed over the weekend.

I used vtx1029's idea of cross dowels to attach the extrusion to the LVL rails.

In total, each extrusion is bolted to the LVL rail with 11 cross dowels and 14 5/16 t-nuts. They really have become one with the LVL rails!

Next up is the CRS, just need to wait a bit for the funds to build again.

Speaking of the CRS, how far apart should the holes be for attachment? And should the holes be slightly over sized to allow for a bit of adjustment room?

[jsantos]

I suppose slow progress is better than no progress.

I was able to get the 1530 extrusions installed over the weekend.

I used vtx1029's idea of cross dowels to attach the extrusion to the LVL rails.

In total, each extrusion is bolted to the LVL rail with 11 cross dowels and 14 5/16 t-nuts. They really have become one with the LVL rails!

Next up is the CRS, just need to wait a bit for the funds to build again.

Speaking of the CRS, how far apart should the holes be for attachment? And should the holes be slightly over sized to allow for a bit of adjustment room?

I spaced mine 6 inches apart. I used 3/8" holes. That gave me enough play to get the CRSes parallel to each other.

[bobmagnuson]

Thanks Joe. Looks like I've got to drill a lot of holes!

Did you use a smaller bit first and then use the 3/8"? And did you use a 5/16" or 1/4" bolt?

[jsantos]

Thanks Joe. Looks like I've got to drill a lot of holes!

Did you use a smaller bit first and then use the 3/8"? And did you use a 5/16" or 1/4" bolt?

At least, you've only got one row to drill. I had to drill two rows. :-)

I tried all sorts of things, drilling with a smaller hole first, using cutting oil, etc. In the end, what worked was with CarveOne taught me.

I did not have to drill a small hole first. I drilled 3/8" right away.

1. Use split-point bit. Solved most of my drilling problems. I used the Ridgid 143-degree split-point bit that I picked up from Home Depot. Worked like a charm.

2. Slowed down my drill to 400RPM, the slowest my drill will go. This is probably the other part that really solved my problem.

3. Cut dry. Didn't need cutting oil once I learned how to drill.

4. To quote CarveOne, "no blue or gold chips". I move the drill down at a speed where I avoid "blue or gold chips".

5. Try on scrap first. I got a small piece to practice with. Good thing too. I was really screwing up until I got the hang of it.

6. After you're done, make sure you paint the middle part of the CRS. Helps a lot with keeping rust out. I used Rustoleum on C1's recommendation. Used 1" masking tape to mask the edges. A 1" tape will perfectly cover both sides of the CRS where your carriage will ride.

Hopefully, with the above you won't have broken bits or bits stuck in CRS like I did. :-)

[jsantos]

Thanks Joe. Looks like I've got to drill a lot of holes!

Did you use a smaller bit first and then use the 3/8"? And did you use a 5/16" or 1/4" bolt?

Oops. Missed the last question. I use 5/16" carriage bolts for all my fastening on the 15s extrusions.

[bobmagnuson]

Thanks for all the great tips Joe. Hopefully it goes smooth when I get to that point. I've got to drill a lot of holes!

[CarveOne]

Thanks Joe,

Another point worth mentioning is to use a corded drill with plenty of power. A cordless drill battery won't last long because of the load being applied to it to drill holes like this in cold rolled steel. I bought a Porter Cable corded contractor drill because my Dewalt 18v metal gear cordless just didn't have enough power or last long enough on a charge. Cold rolled is fairly tough stuff even when using a harder than average drill bit.

The center of a standard drill bit is "center rubbing" not center cutting. That is the key to reducing the pressure load required to drill the holes. Use cutting oil, not lubricating oil. I normally drill dry though. With practice you will find the drilling rpm and pressure that the metal "likes" and the drill bit will go in a little faster. Start slow and increase rpm to find this preferred speed.

CarveOne

[vtx1029]

Any updates?