SHOW YOUR DUST BOOT/PICK-UP SHOE...

[Mountaincraft]

Getting ready to design and build a dust collection system for my brand new baby CNC (born just this weekend!)...

I'd like to get a look at the various ideas and ingenuity others have come up with in regards dust control at the cutter head..

So if you got pictures of your dust boot, post 'em!

If there is another thread like this already, point me to it... If not, a thread with a whole bunch of pictures on the subject would be a nice thing to have..

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[Senna]

Here's my version of a tunnel dust shoe. I used a neoprene dust skirt instead of brushes. I never could keep the brushes from occasionally pole vaulting my Z axis. Works a charm...!

[ger21]

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/661623-post167.html
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/661872-post168.html

[Mountaincraft]

Really interested in seeing mounting systems too.. forgot to mention that...

[cyclestart]

If there is another thread like this already, point me to it...

I asked this question last year and got a number of responses
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cn...dust_shoe.html

ger21's advice back then on the dust collection end of things was spot on. No regrets.

As far as the shoe I went with KentCNC, a nice guy who makes a great product. If you prefer to make your own consider copying his design. The clear top allows you to watch the cut in progress. My router has LED lighting on the bottom end but it should be possible to view without the lighting. The picture shows part of a T-square beneath the boot.

[louieatienza]

I went the stationary route. Though it is adjustable, I want to revise it with cam locks to make adjustment faster. Also to make the body out of HDPE instead of plywood, just because... Can't find the pics, but here's the video...

[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JVpKLBXvtSs&feature=channel_video_title"]YouTube - DIY CNC Router, cutting BMX chain sprocket, Part 1: Pocketing[/nomedia]

[tulsaturbo]

This is my solution to the dust issue for flat panel type routing/milling. Two screws quickly adjust the shoe height above the work surface. By enclosing the area below the router bit a venturi effect is created thereby increasing suction to the vacuum port, also when the shoe extends past the work area, less vacuum is lost.

[Mountaincraft]

Louie.. what do you think about the idea of having a couple shafts going down to near the work piece, mounted to the Y>Z carriage assy.. and then a dust boot that is not actually 'fastened' to the rods, but slides down to the work surface on the rods and it's own weight keeps it down on the work?..

I'm thinking that something could be mounted on the Z carriage so that when it raises to a certain height, it would catch and lift the dust boot (ie for when it goes 'home')

[Mountaincraft]

This is my solution to the dust issue for flat panel type routing/milling. Two screws quickly adjust the shoe height above the work surface. By enclosing the area below the router bit a venturi effect is created thereby increasing suction to the vacuum port, also when the shoe extends past the work area, less vacuum is lost.

I like that idea!

What size hose is that, 1 1/2"?

What are you using for vacuum? Is it a smaller job vac, like the little genie that has the 1 1/2" hose all the way back to the vacuum?

What material did you make the pickup out of, and how thick is each piece?

You've given me some ideas for sure...

Thanks,
Mark

[Mountaincraft]

I went the stationary route. Though it is adjustable, I want to revise it with cam locks to make adjustment faster. Also to make the body out of HDPE instead of plywood, just because... Can't find the pics, but here's the video...

Louie.. what are you using for a vacuum, and what size hose?

What happens if you don't bother locking those rods down on the top end, leaving them free to ride up and down as needed?

[louieatienza]

Louie.. what do you think about the idea of having a couple shafts going down to near the work piece, mounted to the Y>Z carriage assy.. and then a dust boot that is not actually 'fastened' to the rods, but slides down to the work surface on the rods and it's own weight keeps it down on the work?..

I'm thinking that something could be mounted on the Z carriage so that when it raises to a certain height, it would catch and lift the dust boot (ie for when it goes 'home')

I had thought of what you described, and the problem lies when you have work of sharp elevation changes; the boot or the rods may get caught up where it should "ride" the surface. Which is precisely why many dust boots use strip brushes in the first place! It's cheaper, and easier to have the brushes conform to the material than to devise a mechanism to let it ride up and down. It may work for sheet ggoods and flat work; but then again, it's far easier to just keep the boot at a fixed height. Maybe velcro attached to different length strip brushes would add a little versatility.

I shamelessly borrowed the ShopDroids idea with my design, though his is a little nicer. I think cam locks would be far more convenient than screws. I use nuts and washers and it's a pain. But I do agree that the volume under the boot shouldn't be too large, to maximize the vacuum effect...

[louieatienza]

Louie.. what are you using for a vacuum, and what size hose?

What happens if you don't bother locking those rods down on the top end, leaving them free to ride up and down as needed?

I'm using a mini 2.5 gallon ShopVac, the hose is 1.75 inches I believe... I will be upgrading to my larger ShopVvac and hose once I get my cyclone built, whenever that happens...

[tulsaturbo]

I like that idea!

What size hose is that, 1 1/2"?

Hey Mark,
I can't remember (old age creeping in)... it may be a 1 1/2" or 1 3/4" hose...

What are you using for vacuum? Is it a smaller job vac, like the little genie that has the 1 1/2" hose all the way back to the vacuum?

Yes, its just a small generic vacuum that I picked up at Lowes...

What material did you make the pickup out of, and how thick is each piece?

The framework is 1/4" steel with 1/4" thick acrylic (top and now the bottom). I had used a different plastic for the bottom before (cutting board material) but now with the clear acrylic on the bottom I have full view of the work area...

You've given me some ideas for sure...

Thanks,
Mark

Glad to hear it!

[Mountaincraft]

I had thought of what you described, and the problem lies when you have work of sharp elevation changes; the boot or the rods may get caught up where it should "ride" the surface. Which is precisely why many dust boots use strip brushes in the first place! It's cheaper, and easier to have the brushes conform to the material than to devise a mechanism to let it ride up and down. It may work for sheet ggoods and flat work; but then again, it's far easier to just keep the boot at a fixed height. Maybe velcro attached to different length strip brushes would add a little versatility.

I shamelessly borrowed the ShopDroids idea with my design, though his is a little nicer. I think cam locks would be far more convenient than screws. I use nuts and washers and it's a pain. But I do agree that the volume under the boot shouldn't be too large, to maximize the vacuum effect...

What I got going on in my head, lets the thing ride on the material 'on a circle of short bristles'...

Some ideas starting to 'gel'... then comes the cold hard slap of reality when I try and put what's in my head into practice.. LOL

[ger21]

What I got going on in my head, lets the thing ride on the material 'on a circle of short bristles'...

Until it gets caught and rips the whole thing off. The best way is to use a long brush at a fixed height, slightly below the tool. That's how all the $100,000 routers do it. And use a 4" hose and dust collector.

It's easy, and it's dust free.

[louieatienza]

Until it gets caught and rips the whole thing off. The best way is to use a long brush at a fixed height, slightly below the tool. That's how all the $100,000 routers do it. And use a 4" hose and dust collector.

It's easy, and it's dust free.

Heck, that's how a lot of the $200,000 routers do it as well! The Onsrud's have a large brush that drops down, but looks to be at a constant pre-determined height....

[cyclestart]

A brush type shoe that moves up and down with the router will ride right over clamps and other protrusions as long as the protrusions are not higher than the flexible portion of the shoe. If the work is flat and the work path doesn't approach clamps the fixed height shoes appear to do a nice job. My 3" brush is far from vacuum tight but moving a large volume of air compensates for that pretty well or at least I believe so, dust at the micron level is hard to see

Different horses for different courses ?

[Mountaincraft]

So, what are some good sources for 'brushes?'.. and what is an effective method of attaching them to the shoe?

I have some push brooms I could steal brushes off of, or I could go to the local dollar store and look for scrub brushes with 1" or so bristles.. I'm thinking that something reasonably stiff is better.. like the bristles on the brush of my shop vac?...

Is horse hair better than nylon? I really don't want to spend a fortune on ordering some sort of custom bristles no matter how cheap, shipping is liable to be 15 bucks or so.. and after buying this software.. money is going to be 'real' tight for the rest of the month.. especially this week...

Someone mentioned using neoprene, and I have seen others use the clear vinyl from carpet protectors...

I like the idea of medium stiff nylon bristles though... So I'm looking for creative ideas of inexpensive things to steal them from, and then equally creative ways to attach them once stolen..

Worse comes to worse, I'll have to try the vinyl though I think.. at least for temporary..

[ger21]

The brush I used was $11 at McMaster Carr, and their shipping to me is usually about $5

[Mountaincraft]

I think I'll start with a version of the shop droid.. 'maybe' put a gasket like louie did.. That'll get me going... I probably won't hit perfection with the very first attempt anyways...

Nick, what size is the opening at the bottom and the top of the cutting area?

Should I leave a gap between the work surface and the shoes so that air can be draw in for the vacuum? Or does the router generate enough air for the vacuum?

I'm using a 5hp peak (yeah right) Genie shop vac, with a 2" hose... Will be building 'some' form of a dust deputy this week as well..