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  1. #141
    Member ger21's Avatar
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    ger21 - Are you using CarveOne's box dimensions?
    Nope, I measured it this morning. Here's the drawing I used to cut it. The aluminum heatsink is there to show the orientation. The dxf is in inches, but the hole spacing was metric.

    From the bottom of the board to the top of the LCD is about 15/16" or a little less, and I routed 1/4" below it to clear the pins and screws on the bottom. The "standoffs" in the .dxf should be a little smaller, as some of the pins are right up against it.

    I don't have any screws to test my hole spacing, but it looks good. I drilled and tapped them 6-32 and will pick up some screws tomorrow after work.

    You going to do anything for airflow?
    No, but I'm going to mount a piece of aluminum to the heatsink, something like 3/8"x1"x3", since I have 3/8" mic6 plate (I bought it for another project )

    How is it you guys always seem to just have 1 1/2 acrylic just lying around your garage?
    We did a job with a few sheets of it at work a few years ago. When my previous employer closed their doors, there was a lot of scrap for the taking. I've got about 1/3 of a sheet that weighs about 100 lbs or more, and I'll probably never use. Unless I start using it for stuff like this.

    If you want the full drawing of the box, let me know and I'll post it tomorrow. It's a pretty tight fit, though.

    EDIT: I updated the .dxf to include the pocket I routed below the board, 1/4" deep. I also picked up some screws and checked the fit, and the holes are perfect. I used 6-32, as that was what size tap I had, but an M3 should work to.

    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by ger21; 11-08-2010 at 09:27 PM.
    Gerry

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  2. #142
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    Ger21- That's a PorterCable 690 (you said PC690)? It does look a little tight there. In doubt just some cleaning and silicone can do wonders to hold the sensor, they glue huge fishtanks together with silicone and a lot of commercial products have components secured with silicone too.

    Thanks Gerry for the idea about showing the PCB dimensions and mounting holes, I'll add that to the instructions, I'm also working on a "quick start guide" too.

    Wow that's nice carving a box out of 1.5" clear acrylic! Sexy stuff, you should make electric guitar bodies out of that stuff people go crazy for them! If you polish it with progressively lighter wet and dry paper, lubed with vaseline, you can get it to a glass clear high gloss finish. I've done some clear gear knobs and a guitar body is on my to-do list when I get some time...

    Thank you too for posting the SP.dxf file for your box.

    Khalid- Good to hear you got the SuperPID delivered ok. Just let me know if you need anything.

    Jay C, thank you for the pictures of the Colt router. Can you confirm that the adjustable speed router has no "click" at the full speed position (ie it has no bypass switch?). If it does not, then it needs to be bypassed. The bypass mod should be as easy as joining all 3 pins of the TRIAC. This will not hurt the TRIAC and should always be reversible.

    CarveOne- Excellent! I checked your build log too for the comprehensive photos you posted.

    Thanks for the tip re the fuse ratings printed on the PCB, that will be changed with the next production batch.

    Revwarguy- Thanks for the Colt pictures, even though your Colt is NOT variable speed controlled it does use TRIAC electronics to give the soft start feature, and probably some type of fixed speed control. Looks like it was time you pulled the dust cover and gave it a brush out anyway!



  3. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by RomanLini View Post
    Jay C, thank you for the pictures of the Colt router. Can you confirm that the adjustable speed router has no "click" at the full speed position (ie it has no bypass switch?). If it does not, then it needs to be bypassed. The bypass mod should be as easy as joining all 3 pins of the TRIAC. This will not hurt the TRIAC and should always be reversible.
    No click correct. Speeds 1 - 6.



  4. #144
    Member ger21's Avatar
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    Ger21- That's a PorterCable 690 (you said PC690)?
    Yes.

    Gerry

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  5. #145
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    Default Box design

    Thanks, Gerry for the drawing of the board. The advantage of a clear cover is you don't have to place a cut-out for the SuperPID's screen.

    I've attached a screen shot of a box design I'm going to try make out of .5 baltic birch plywood for the top, bottom, and sides, and 1/8 inch lexan I found lying around the garage.

    The lexan parts (blue) on the top and bottom are vent windows. The top is cut through in the middle, and the bottom will be pocketed .25. This gives a depth of 1.25 for the inside of the box. The lexan cover is the same size as the top will be just screwed on. If I need more depth, I can just cut more sides of whatever thickness material I need and glue them up. It looks like one set of sides will give a total depth of 1.25 inches, so even though two sets are drawn, one should be enough.

    This is all done just using profiles and pocket operations, and assumes a .125 bit.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Super-PID new low-cost router speed controller-spboxlayout-jpg  
    Last edited by revwarguy; 11-08-2010 at 02:32 PM.
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  6. #146
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    i've been keeping my eye on this device since i saw the ad pop up, and its pretty cool! i'm 95% sure i'll ditch my VFD and go with this on my next upgrade.

    Any hopes of getting modbus or straight serial control of this device? Would be great for on / off and RPM.

    i'm trying to keep my output usage to a minimum



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    Thank you Jay C and Ger21 for the confirmations.

    Revwarguy- Nice box design! To see all these boxes coming together is exciting. Good point about the clear cover, I prefer at least a 2mm clear cover over the LCD as the LCD glass is always quite thin, and on my machine anyway things get knocked about with brooms and vacuum cleaners.

    Multiplex- Sorry, no immediate plans to utilise Modbus, there seems to be only a very small % of people using it. Maybe at some point in the future? I have left a serial comms pin on the microcontroller available for future possibilities, but at this time everyone just seems to be using parallel ports.

    Accessories update.

    I have ordered some samples of tiny fans, 40mm and 50mm which are made to work from 5v and have the new hi-tech ceramic bearings for very long life and quiet running. If they seem ok in testing Val has said he will order stocks and make them available as an accessory for a few dollars extra. For small to medium routers the fans are not important, but they will be good for very large routers and/or people who insist on lots of general overkill on their machines.

    We're still on the lookout for plastic enclosures to offer as an accessory, but most are flimsy ugly looking things and once they start to get nice/large then the price gets up into the $30 - $40 range (and it may bump shipping costs due to the bulk).



  8. #148
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    "For small to medium routers the fans are not important, but they will be good for very large routers and/or people who insist on lots of general overkill on their machines. "

    There ya go, talking about ME again.....

    CarveOne

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  9. #149
    Member revwarguy's Avatar
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    Here's the box.

    Left pic, the pieces hot off the table. (on the table?)

    Right pic, how it looks together.

    Just had time to cut it out. Needs to be glued up, sanded a bit, poly'ed and mounted, but that's all I have time for today. I'll make room for wiring holes after the device arrives.

    I have another device with a blue backlit serial display (4x20) it it looks fine through the smoked lexan.

    Inside depth is 1.5 inches.

    This is great stuff - Gerry gives me the dimensions of his, allowing me to fab a custom enclosure, all before the device even gets here!

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Super-PID new low-cost router speed controller-rawpieces-jpg   Super-PID new low-cost router speed controller-spbox1-jpg  
    Last edited by revwarguy; 11-09-2010 at 02:41 PM.
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  10. #150
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    Nice job, I'll clone that no doubt



  11. #151
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    That's looking nice revwarguy! Once it has finish on it it will look even better. When you guys mount the board, shift it over to the left side of the box because you will need room for the AC cables to come into the box unless you already allowed for it. Especially if you bring them in through the bottom like I did.

    I got out the Hitachi M12VC router today and removed the black plastic cover. The triac is potted in an aluminum block where it can't be reached. One of the screws is so tight (probably has thread lock on it) that I can't get the remaining cast aluminum cover off easily. I can't tell if the block can be removed and bypassed entirely. I don't want to destroy this brand new router badly enough to proceed with this, so I will just say good luck to anyone who wants to try it and move on to the Bosch Colt router sooner than I expected to. It will be a shame to not be able to use the Super-PID with this router. Maybe there is a version without the speed control.

    I will post the Bosch Colt photos in my build log very soon. It's all finished except for a short test run.

    CarveOne

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Super-PID new low-cost router speed controller-dscn0134-jpg   Super-PID new low-cost router speed controller-dscn0135-jpg   Super-PID new low-cost router speed controller-dscn0136-jpg  
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  12. #152
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    Default Hitachi M12VC

    Carveone - I also dis-assembled by M12VC router last night to take a look. Yes, one of the screws was VERY tight! I was concerned about stripping the head, but managed to break it loose with a LOT of down force on the phillips driver. Once the other screw is out, the aluminum casting slides off exposing the speed controller block. Yes it is completely sealed, but is very easily removed and bypassed. It has three wires, two heavier gauge wires that would be cut from the controller and spliced together. The third wire is a small gauge and just brings in the other leg of the AC power to provide power to the module. It should be able to be cut and ignored.

    One interesting note, the speed controller module covers the end of the motor shaft which has a ring magnet at the top. The speed controller has a coil in it the senses the magnet rotation for feedback to the controller. With the speed controller removed, there's plenty of room to mount a sensor in its place. It may be possible to use the optical sensor and white paint on the magnet at the top of the shaft. This would be away from the dust, and should work great providing that there is adequate ambient light that can be reflected off the paint.

    An even better solution would be a magnetic sensor that could be triggered by the existing ring magnet on the shaft. It would be interesting to see if Roman's new magnetic sensor could work directly with the existing shaft magnet.

    When I receive my Super-PID, I'll probably start working to see if I can put the sensor in the top of the router. Roman, do you have any idea how much light is required for reliable sensor operation?

    Todd



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    That's good to know. My screw must be tighter than yours. My full weight on it with an almost new screwdriver wouldn't do it. I was looking at my hammer drill but backed off. I'm not sure I'm ready to cut the wires. The PC7518 will be the one I use on my big machine. I'll hold the M12VC in reserve.

    CarveOne

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  14. #154
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    Quote Originally Posted by thoug View Post
    An even better solution would be a magnetic sensor that could be triggered by the existing ring magnet on the shaft. It would be interesting to see if Roman's new magnetic sensor could work directly with the existing shaft magnet.

    Todd
    If you can determine if the ring magnet is bipolar, has both N & S pole on one revolution it should work with the present sensor specified.
    If not and it is removable, you could use the type of magnets Roman uses.
    I would imagine it would be preferable to an optical, although I believe the optical sensor used is retro reflective, which according to the PDF it provides its own infra red light source.
    Al.

    Last edited by Al_The_Man; 11-09-2010 at 09:10 PM.
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  15. #155
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    When you guys mount the board, shift it over to the left side of the box because you will need room for the AC cables to come into the box unless you already allowed for it. Especially if you bring them in through the bottom like I did.
    I'm bringing mine in through the side, right at the terminals. But it's such a tight fit that I figure I'll have to wire it before it's mounted in the box, then pull the extra wire out when I mount it. But I wanted it as compact as possible, since it'll be sticking out from the side of the gantry.

    With the speed controller removed, there's plenty of room to mount a sensor in its place. It may be possible to use the optical sensor and white paint on the magnet at the top of the shaft.
    I thought about mounting the sensor on the top of the shaft on my Porter Cable, but didn't think there was enough room. Looking again, it looks like if I filed a small notch into the casting it would work, but I'd need to disassemble it completely to get enough access to the shaft to paint it. I'll look into this when I need to change the bearings.

    Roman, would there be any issues if the sensor is under a cover with very little light? And could sparks from the brushes cause problems, although the sensor shouldn't actually see any sparks?

    Gerry

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  16. #156
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    After 2-1/2 painful hours of sanding, I'm calling it done. Now I just need to drill for the cables and mount it. I do need to route two small pockets for clearance for the heatsink screws, and make a quick heatsink.

    It looks even cooler in person.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Super-PID new low-cost router speed controller-sp_03-sm-jpg   Super-PID new low-cost router speed controller-sp_04-sm-jpg   Super-PID new low-cost router speed controller-sp_05-sm-jpg  
    Gerry

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  17. #157
    Member revwarguy's Avatar
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    Very cool looking! You can clearly see the work that you've put into it. Nice job, Gerry.

    "72.6 per cent of all statistics are made up on the spot." - Steven Wright


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    Very nice enclosure Gerry! Don't forget to backlight it.

    CarveOne

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    CarveOne- "General Overkill"... I just got a mental image of a cartoon style seven-star general holding a REALLY big gun!!

    Revwarguy- Nice box! It's great to see all these boxes happening.

    Ger21- Likewise, that clear box is looking magic. I'll talk with Val and see if he's open to the idea of utting a "Users gallery" on the superPID.com web page. How does everyone feel about that, ie putting up a photo of your machine/box and a simple one paragraph description?

    Re the Hitachi M12VC variable speed router.

    Here are a couple of photos I found in another thread, the orig poster Marzetti says the M12VC uses a 12 pole ring magnet on the shaft and the sensor is buried inside the electronics.



    The photos are a bit small, but it looks like you could easily remove the electronics "blob" or block, and join it's two large wires (are they the BLACK and WHITE wires Thoug?) to bypass the speed control.

    Then some white paint on that black ring magnet should be a good setup for the optical sensor to detect.

    Unfortunately if Marzetti is correct that the ring magnet has 12 poles it is not compatible with the SuperPID that needs 2 poles (ie N,S to give one pulse per rotation). I can't tell from the photo if the ring magnet can be easily removed, but if it can then it might be easy to make a small plastic ring magnet holder similar to the white ones I posted photos of earlier (post #125).

    Ger21- (and Thoug) The optical infra-red sensor supplied with the Super-PID does not require light, it shines its own light and detects it (which Al_the_man already said). So darkness is a perfect environment for it.

    I am not sure how sparking at the router brushes will affect it. It uses shielded cable, and has good noise filtering built into the SuperPID, so it should be ok. My router has a plastic cover and the sensor cable runs right past the brushes, next to the plastic cover and there has been no noise evident on my setup. But there is always a chance of electrical noise on any machine.

    The optical sensor won't see the light from the sparks, there is very little light energy there and most of it at the opposite end of the light spectrum, the IR sensor has an IR filtering in it to reject non-IR light.

    Thoug- Any more info you have on the Hitachi M12VC would be appreciated, like a good photo of the magnet ring or if you can test the number of poles by running a little steel screwdriver around the ring etc. Or confirmation if the ring can be easily removed, and confirmation that it is the WHITE and BLACK wires that need to be joined to bypass the controller.

    Dimensions drawing;

    I whipped this up, I think it shows most of the dimensions people might need and hopefully has no big errors.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Super-PID new low-cost router speed controller-spid_dim-jpg  


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    I'm going to remove the Colt and Super-PID from my machine, install the M12VC router, and continue on with other CNC things until my second Super-PID arrives. You guys have fun with this endeavor and I'll watch the progress with much interest for a week or two.

    Roman - Maybe that should be my new user name...

    CarveOne

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