Widgitmaster Wide-Router

[Jay C]

Wasn't sure where to put this thread, but Eric put his in the DIY wood routers so I guess that's what this is classified as.

As the title says, I am the proud owner of a limited edition handmade Widgitmaster wide router. The specs are:
MAXIMUM AXIAL TRAVEL LIMITS
X-Axis 21.125" (536.575 mm)
Y-Axis 8.250" (209.5500 mm)
Z-Axis 3.900" (99.06000 mm)

More here.

I got mine with the Proxxon mount.

Some general comments I was saving for my first posted video (soon):
1. Fit and finish are perfect. The uprights are pinned and everything just bolts together
- one issue. The standoffs are all made with the same length of thread. However, the Z-axis top plate is thinner than the other plates. The Z-Standoffs actually protrude (in the case of the front two) and bottom out (in the case of the rear two). I'll just chuck it up and cut the threads down by 1/8" to remedy.
2. Assembly was self-explanatory, but I did have to take part of it apart to complete the assembly (load the Y-lead screw before attacking both end plates )
3. The Proxxon mount is a awesome. Since My Proxxon arrives today I'll follow up with some photos tonight.
4. The machine is a giant tuning fork I took the Y-slide off to lube the nut and really work screw and nut together. My technique was to start the lead screw in the nut then hoist the slide and screw such that the screw was vertical. Then with the other hand, I spun the slide (all 24" of it) around the screw :eek. I used my fingernails to tap the slide and it rang like a bell Explains the resonance and how it got so loud. I'm assuming (take it for what it's worth) that the lightening pockets Eric made help add to this. I added some sound damping sheet (Dynamat) and it still rings, but not as long and not as loud.

So now some photos. It's not in it's home yet. I wanted to get my X2 up and running first.

Photo 1 shows the routers on my workbench. Photo2 is a closeup of the carbide V-bit I plan to etch circuits with. Notice the distance from the tip of the tool to the table ... that is with Z in it's lowest position ... suggestions on how to "fix" this?

Jay

[Jay C]

BTW, the plate on the router ... it's 12" x 3" X .5" I made it for my X2 table. Videos tomorrow hopefully. I'm thinking 1" MDF then mic6 aluminum on top of that .. .what say you?

Jay

[luv2bsailin]

Hello Jay.
Thanks for sharing your project. I think you have the right idea, add a sacrificial tooling plate. I've used MDF, it works OK for most setups. You can get some that's an inch thick and is sold as stair treads, or the more common 3/4 inch stuff. I found some tiny drywall screws that work good for holding down sheet stock, with no pre-drilling needed.
For something a little more solid, Corion or similar countertop material works great. I believe it's acrylic with some kind of mineral filler. I've found people selling scraps on e-bay, or look for a local countertop/cabinet shop. Dremel sells a 1/4 inch router bit that'll fit the Proxxon and it can be used to put a new surface on the plate.
Have fun with the new toy!
Jim

[Khalid]

Really great Job you doing Jay.. Thanks for sharing pics and info...

[Jay C]

Here is a photo of the bottom, and the addition of Dynamat to the pockets I described. Oh, and ignore the PTFE lube over spray

I hope to cut something (I have a block of machine wax but I hesitant to use it based on the videos of it going/getting everywhere ). I also have some nice maple stair tread cutoffs to whittle on.

Much more to follow,
Jay

[Jay C]

Photos of the side gantry

[Jay C]

"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S5auWY-coCc"]YouTube - New Widgitmaster Router First cust

Small letters are .25" high, Big ones are .4". The smallest ones are .125". Feed is set for 20ipm, 5ipm plunge at the beginning. I got greedy and bumped it to 34ipm. The 5ipm worked fine for plunges, but 34ipm retracts resulted in stall and missed steps So I recalibrated all axis to slow things down. I also plan to post process the GCode and add a F term to the Z retracts.

As far as the router is concerned ... it's awesome. 0 backlash ... and dead accurate. Coupled to the Proxxon this setup rocks. Notice how quiet the Proxxon is in the video ... the camera was less than 8" away.

The axis were originally tuned to 105ipm @ 20ipm acceleration. After this attempt the X and Y are now 65ipm and the Z 10ipm. The old HobbyCNC 80-oz-in stepper is just too weak to run the Z. I have some other surplus stepper, I just need to either make my own gear puller, or find one small enough to pull the gear off On the other hand, I am only running the Z-stepper on .5A so that may be part of it too. I tried one amp but the thing burned me after I ran an air cut test. The Gecko 251's are great and worth every bit of what I paid for them. I'm very happy with this first attempt.

Newly machined Y ballscrew on my X2 arrives tomorrow ... BIG thanks to Mike from CNCFusion for threading the screw for free

Jay

[ClaudioG]

Hey Jay,

The machine is looking good but I think you need to beef up those steppers.

What size do you have on each axis?

I've got 305oz-in on XYZ, which is probably over doing it a little but I think 205oz-in would be great. I'm doing around 70ipm on X & Y and around 50ipm on Z.


Cheers,

Claudio

[Jay C]

Cladio. Yeah, I get some serious speed with the bigger stepeprs too, but I was trying to put the 80-oz in I bought back in 2005 with my first HobbyCNC board Oh well, no harm done. I have other motors, just need to solder one up. The next video will be better.

Speaking of which, have you put your's to use other than the Cut3D samples?

Jay

[ClaudioG]

Jay

I haven't made too many real projects as I've been having too much fun playing whenever I get a chance.

I've done some very small engraving for Audio Visual wall plates and some basic, but repetitive, hole drilling in wall plates which has saved a lot of time and had better results than doing it on a drill press. I'm a Custom A/V Installer so I'm trying to use it for work wherever I can to help justify to myself and my wife that it is a serious business tool

When I get some time I'll post some videos and photos and not be so slack.

Cheers,

Claudio

[Eclipze]

When it comes to faster speeds, the limit isn't just the steppers but also the voltage. As the speed increases, the inductance of the stepper windings becomes a big factor into the rate the current (power) can be forced into the windings.

I have 305oz/in steppers running with a 55V power supply and Gecko drivers, and can jog at over 200ipm But it's ridiculously fast for the Widgit machine haha... I actually only use around 100ipm for jogging anyway.

For what your doing... going fast requires very high acceleration, not necessarily high feedrates! Watching your video, it doesn't look like 20ipm. Next time you machine, look at the actual rate from the software running the gcode (such as Mach3). You might the actual speed is going up and down around 4ipm, except for long straight lines where it picks up the speed. Otherwise, the acceleration is probably limiting the machine getting to the maximum feedrate you specified.

If you want to speed things up, increase the motor acceleration! Then you'll see fast machining :-) I use 20ipm on the acceleration... I can go higher, but the stress on the machine from going so fast (changing direction so quickly) makes it practically not worth going higher.

For reference, I have a Kress 800W spindle (much more powerful and heavier than the Proxxon), using 305oz/in steppers and 55VDC power supply. I set the limit (for practical reasons) to 100ipm with 20ipm acceleration. The fastest engraving I do is around 50ipm, too much higher and it will chip the V-tip off. But given the high acceleration, it will go through 3mm acrylic at 50ipm in one pass (1/8" bit). But I wouldn't do that if the acceleration was set too low, otherwise the cornering speed is too slow and the material doesn't cut well (melts, and bit breaks). Material like 3mm aluminium can do at 12ipm, but that's pointless going that fast without adequate cooling, as it just kills the tool bit.

To compare notes, it's best to mention stepper torque (i.i 305oz/in), the current limit set for them, the power supply voltage and the feedrates (including acceleration).

[Jay C]

Great post Eclipze ... thank you. I will do better at watching the Mach screen as you suggested and report actual values. And yes you are right about the fast speeds, but I just love watching the precise cuts at speed

I Have ordered some 276oz-in steppers like I use on my X2. In the meantime, it's confession time. My Z was losing steps yes...but it may not have been the motors fault. You see, I received my new shaft couplers yesterday and as I was changing them out today, I realized I have not tightened down the set screw on the Z-motor shaft ... DOH!

On the good side, these new couplers are nice (set screw and clamping). The semi-bad news, they won't fit on my X2 which has 10mm shafts on the ballscrew side ... DOH!

Finally, I installed the newly machined ballscrew from CNCFusion. The new clamping nut did the trick and the Y feels and moves great. I'll measure it this weekend and post an update.

Today, I need to make a trip to Lowes for a 10-24 tap and die. I twisted the threaded portion of one of the Z standoffs clean off. The screw extractor was a joke and will be returned for a refund. Then I get to make a new standoff.

Jay