best 4x8 cnc 30k to 40k

[1enick72]

I've done some research but I'm sure I'm missing alot of companies. I've looked at the Precix machine for a while but want to make sure. A lot of people here have great experience. I build custom poker tables and use mostly 3/4" ply, mdf and particle board. I kinda like the shop saber but want to make sure it's heavy enough. Machine will run 2 to 3 hours a day.
thanks

[dertsap]

precix is or was our sister company not exactly sure , i know very little about them but it is to my understanding they are building pretty solid machine setups , a number of the guys there are good cnc machinists who are desinging and building them ,which beats some guy who is sitting behind a desk and never cut a chip in his life

[BensMillwork]

Hello, In that price range shopsabre now has a machine that cuts at 1200 ipm.
I have the 4896 from last year that tops out at 600 ipm, good company,
no complaints. I will be reviewing their 4896 laser around the first part of April as some friends of mine are getting one.I saw the sample cuts ,the detail in wood was incredible.
Thanks,
Ben

[todd71]

Originally Posted by 1enick72 Machine will run 2 to 3 hours a day. thanks

I've ran mine up to 36 hrs straight with no problems. And that's with the vacuum table going. I've been averaging 60-70hr week for the last couple of months, as well. SS should workout fine for your needs.

Todd

[cabnet636]

you can go see my new machine being fabricated at www.camaster.com in lafayette GA just an hour or so up the road from you

below is my first 4x8, the new one is 5x10,atc.lathe,

jim

[KustomKoncepts]

Originally Posted by BensMillwork Hello, In that price range shopsabre now has a machine that cuts at 1200 ipm. I have the 4896 from last year that tops out at 600 ipm, good company, no complaints. I will be reviewing their 4896 laser around the first part of April as some friends of mine are getting one.I saw the sample cuts ,the detail in wood was incredible. Thanks, Ben

Ben I ran into my first problem with SS. There is no stop on the gantry Y axis and I ran it off the back side of table and wrecked one of the HIWIN EG 25's where do you get these from? There is a very simple fix to make sure that the gantry can't go past. a simple rubber stopper that I will now put on. It is hard to think they do't think of this. the stopper is a $4 part found in the boating section of any hardware store now I just wrecked probubly a $100+ part and am down for a week. also what did you do for dust skirt. Their skirt gets cought in the tool change. Thanks Later

[cabnet636]

does your machine have limit switches??

jim

[KustomKoncepts]

Originally Posted by cabnet636 does your machine have limit switches?? jim

Nop, Homeing Switches. I guess it was probubly another grand for limit switches. the program is supost to have soft limits to stop it but the soft limits are set to far out.

[ger21]

Originally Posted by KustomKoncepts ...........wrecked one of the HIWIN EG 25's where do you get these from?

http://www.automation4less.com/linmed.htm

[todd71]

How did you break the slide? That's crazy. Your soft limits should be denoted by the red
box on the screen. If the gantry goes past that with the soft limits on there's something wrong. Another option would be to MANUALLY run your tool back to the farthest point in Y to see it you'll have problems. The machine only does what your program tells it to do.
As for the hairs on the dust skirt. I gave mine a hair cut on the tool changer side. Which solved the hair issue but not the dust collection. After that I just set up the camera to watch so I could leave the room. I figure, after the first pass whats the point of being there anyway.

Todd

[KustomKoncepts]

Two, $3.99 ruber boat stops is a lot of insurance for me to not see the gantry Hiwin berring block not be able to run half way of the rail on the back side of this machine. plus the rubber gives it a soft stop instead of when the steel on steel hit yesterday and yes I did home it. it allows it to go and the back block runs half way off the rail exposing the ball berrings and causes a heck of a problem when you try to run it back in. if I had done it by hand cranking the Y axis it most likely would have been fine But now I never have to worry.


P.S I was able to find all but maybe one or two of the ball bearings and took that apart and found you can take the cap off and just put the ball's back in so I did not order a new part I fixed it myself.

[BensMillwork]

Originally Posted by KustomKoncepts Ben I ran into my first problem with SS. There is no stop on the gantry Y axis and I ran it off the back side of table and wrecked one of the HIWIN EG 25's where do you get these from? There is a very simple fix to make sure that the gantry can't go past. a simple rubber stopper that I will now put on. It is hard to think they do't think of this. the stopper is a $4 part found in the boating section of any hardware store now I just wrecked probubly a $100+ part and am down for a week. also what did you do for dust skirt. Their skirt gets cought in the tool change. Thanks Later

Hello, did you call mike at shopsabre and let them know.Yes ...it sounds like it may have been left off.I know I have limit switch on the front and a stop,to be honest I never paid much attention to the back.I will look at mine and see what it has.I'm still using the stock skirt and occasionally one of the hair will be in the tool holder ,but has never caused a problem, but I want to split the 4" duct into 2- 2" and come down each side of the motor and use those adhesive tie down to hold the hose and each hose will have an angle cut on it .That way I''ll have the suction much closer to the bit and be able to see better.Let me check this out and I'll post laster today.
Thanks,
Ben