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  1. #201
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    Alright, Thanks Hoss. Also for what it is worth I have learned a bunch from you. I think I have read your entire site hossmachine.info. It has been a great read with a lot of very helpful knowledge. It was the first site I really started reading once I realized that my cnc router wasn't really what I was looking for and decided I wanted a full machine. You currently have the two machines I am very interested in the Grizzly 704 and the rf-45 ( I am very interested in the MTW) for the large table. Any way I would love to be able to give some knowledge and suggestions back in the form of help, for all the help and knowledge you have given to this community.



  2. #202
    Member Khalid's Avatar
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    Hoss Nice part, and you used the full bed to make that one..How long it took to complete?

    http://free3dscans.blogspot.com/ http://my-woodcarving.blogspot.com/
    http://my-diysolarwind.blogspot.com/


  3. #203
    Member arizonavideo's Avatar
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    Great job as always Hoss,

    On a part like the filament spool stand it looks like you could mill those parts out of PVC or something but you would, like many parts, wast most of the material.

    Their must be a fairly large material cost advantage to just printing the material needed

    In the long run stock cost really does add up.

    What do you think the cost advantage is between making a part like that printing -V -milling?

    I'm in on the printer idea just need to fine some space and time and something to make... Just need to get this extra G0704 moving along.
    .



  4. #204
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    Quote Originally Posted by arizonavideo View Post
    ...
    What do you think the cost advantage is between making a part like that printing -V -milling?
    ...
    I've been wondering that too. Maybe we could compare the weight of a reel of plastic wire and its cost, to the weight of a piece of flat plastic and its cost?

    I would expect the wire to cost more per kg but there are obvious material savings in the printing of course.

    Another saving is the ability to print hollow parts, or semi-hollow parts ie with internal struts or honeycomb.

    Did someone mention what the max (unsupported) overhang angle is?



  5. #205
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    Of the different types of plastic available, does anyone know which ones would provide the must structural rigidity? Like for the parts hoss is currently making?



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    pla is very rigid but brittle. abs on the other hand is very strong provided the right infill plus it is a little ductile so it wont break it also withstands heat well.
    i have built all of my 3d printers for personal use as well as the ones i sell from abs in my eyes abs is far superior.



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    Quote Originally Posted by Whizbang View Post
    pla is very rigid but brittle. abs on the other hand is very strong provided the right infill plus it is a little ductile so it wont break it also withstands heat well.
    i have built all of my 3d printers for personal use as well as the ones i sell from abs in my eyes abs is far superior.
    thanks Whizbang!



  8. #208
    Member hoss2006's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RomanLini View Post
    I've been wondering that too. Maybe we could compare the weight of a reel of plastic wire and its cost, to the weight of a piece of flat plastic and its cost?

    I would expect the wire to cost more per kg but there are obvious material savings in the printing of course.

    Another saving is the ability to print hollow parts, or semi-hollow parts ie with internal struts or honeycomb.

    Did someone mention what the max (unsupported) overhang angle is?
    I figured the 1 lb spool of PLA has about 260+ feet of filament.
    The support I made used a little under 10' to make it so about 55 cents per part.
    Took 65 minutes to make it but I've only been at this a few days.
    I'm sure the amount of filament used could be lowered ( I'm using 25% fill, rectilinear) and the time to make it
    could be lowered( I'm running about 50mm/sec)
    Sure a simple part like I made could be milled out but think about trying to mill something like these parts.


    Check out the parts made on thingiverse.com for a look at what these can do.
    Hoss

    Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- [URL]http://www.g0704.com[/URL]


  9. #209
    Member Fastest1's Avatar
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    You already know how to mill. This an additional tool for the toolbox! I am sure the little wheels upstairs are already thinking of ways to improve the results!



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    Hoss, does your Y axis belt clear the Z Axis cross support on the bottom?
    It's late tonight and I didn't look too hard but it looked like it was going to rub.

    Richard



  11. #211
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    Yeah it skims across the threaded rod, I wrapped it with some Kapton tape so it's a little smoother.
    Trying ABS for the first time, can't quite get the hotend much over 200 with the bed on too so I'm gonna get a new PS.
    Still extrudes at 199 though it looks a little thick.
    Hoss

    Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- [URL]http://www.g0704.com[/URL]


  12. #212
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    Quote Originally Posted by rwskinner View Post
    Hoss, does your Y axis belt clear the Z Axis cross support on the bottom?
    It's late tonight and I didn't look too hard but it looked like it was going to rub.

    Richard
    If you make the Z axis smooth rods an inch longer you could mount the threaded rod crossbar
    underneath instead and have plenty of clearance for the Y belt.
    hoss

    Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- [URL]http://www.g0704.com[/URL]


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    I realized that after I had already cut everything and started the assembly. I ended up making a small Nylon Idler that keeps the belt off that all thread.
    I'm not sure why they didn't do it the way you stated to begin with as it would give a lot more clearance.

    I just have a little wiring to do then start the calibration process. It went together much faster than the H1 did (fewer parts)

    Richard


    Quote Originally Posted by hoss2006 View Post
    If you make the Z axis smooth rods an inch longer you could mount the threaded rod crossbar
    underneath instead and have plenty of clearance for the Y belt.
    hoss




  14. #214
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    Hoss, 195 to 205 is the perfect temp for abs with the bed at approx 110 to 115 if you desire higher temps from your extruder increasing your psu really may not be the answer assuming it is 300watts at least. Try wrapping you hot end with a few layers of kapton tape and make sure its good and insulated that will keep the heat in better and raise your temps. also make sure your thermistor is touching before you wrap the hotend with the kapton.



  15. #215
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    Yeah I tried 205 but with the bed on it just couldn't get there, with the bed off it had no problem going over 220.
    And the best I could get from the bed is 90.
    Have a 30 amp psu on the way.
    I have the j-head wrapped in Kapton, was going to get some ptfe tape to try and keep the heat in better
    plus keep the fan from cooling it down though I haven't been using it for these parts.
    Lots of little things to learn to get it just right.
    Thanks, hoss

    Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- [URL]http://www.g0704.com[/URL]


  16. #216
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    Hoss it sounds like you are heading in the right direction, I know that J-heads can be a little tricky, I had one but have since put MG extruders on all my machines ( just preference). Printing is a lot like milling you learn temps and speeds like feeds and speeds. We are currently doing the opposites. I am learning milling and deciding on the proper machine and you are learning all the little things of 3d printing. I can assure you, you will be glad once you get it it is truly the way of future manufacturing.



  17. #217
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    Talking

    Holy mother of God Hoss you're on post 216 on a new thread...aaaaaaaaargh my brain is melting at the thought of trying to read it all

    Eoin


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    I have a home-built aluminum foundry and have done a fair amount of casting. I have been wanting to try using a hobby 3-D printer to make my patterns with. It would be an interesting experiment because you would have to deal with the shrinkage in the plastic when you print the part plus the shrinkage in the part when you cast it.



  19. #219
    Member hoss2006's Avatar
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    I'm running off 12 of the same part and just checked and the parts are within .005 of each other.
    That's using PLA for half and ABS for the other half running one part at a time.
    I still have to run some of the calibration tests when I get more of a handle on getting it running smoother.
    The layers it's putting down are .0098 thick so I would expect a tolerance of +/- .005 could be the norm.
    We'll see.
    Hoss

    Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- [URL]http://www.g0704.com[/URL]


  20. #220
    Registered MRM RCModels's Avatar
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    Hoss,

    Now you're building printer too? Awesome thread, cnczone should put you on payroll or something.



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