Yes, i saw them the other time I meant with the autofocus module. Also, does the rotation module does nice job for round things? Does it worth to purchase?
Here's some pics of stuff I've done. There's been more, but I don't always take a pic.
The box with the rose was a box for a valentines day present for my wife, which happened to be the steel rose. The other one is a bunch of parts for a tool holder for my tormach milling machines tool holders.
Wade
Yes, i saw them the other time I meant with the autofocus module. Also, does the rotation module does nice job for round things? Does it worth to purchase?
Handmade Usb, Lighting, Clocks and Fine Art objects
https://www.etsy.com/shop/BatLab
Hope those are the impressions you were referring to. I'm completely satisfied with the laser tho.
There's a few minor things, such as a flip to turn off the air compressor, because the constant buzzing of it is annoying as hell, and the only way to turn it off is to actually flip the breaker on the back of the machine. I fixed that by installing a 30amp light switch inline with the outlet for the laser, so I just have to flip a light switch to turn the laser and the buzzing on/off.
I also don't much care for the dual stepper motor system for raising and lowering the table. If one motor get's out of sync, then you have to tweak the level of the table. I'm probably going to buy a longer belt and tie both motors to the same belt, or just 1 motor to the belt. I may also just put 2 pulleys in where the motors currently are, and drive those with another belt and a single motor. I haven't had time to dink with that yet tho.
Those are really my only 2 grumbles, and they are very minor.
Wade
I haven't installed the autofocus yet. They are making me a video. I've got it tho, it arrived the other day via UPS.
I wouldn't buy a laser without BOTH rotary modules. I have a chuck based one, and friction drive based one. I use rotary for to much not to have it.
Wade
I will say, the first use of it the rotary was a bit confusing, as the chinglish manual wasn't easy to ready, but it only took me about 30 minutes to get a good result. I used the friction drive based rotary for the last picture in my previous post.
Wade
I see.. What is the friction drive based rotary?
Handmade Usb, Lighting, Clocks and Fine Art objects
https://www.etsy.com/shop/BatLab
This is the friction based rotary, you just set something on it, and the drive wheels rotate it.
This is the chuck-based rotary where you have to clamp it in the chuck jaws.
Wade
Nice! I understand that it is complicated to figure out how these modules sync with the laser beam but it is the only way to engrave round material. Thank you very much for your info, you are very king to inform me. Polis
Handmade Usb, Lighting, Clocks and Fine Art objects
https://www.etsy.com/shop/BatLab
It's not really too bad, you just move the laser head over the highest point over the piece, and go to town. The harder part is finding the rotational value to put into the software so it doesn't move too far or to fast and you get the exact dimensions you want.
Once I get the chance to play with the chuck based one a bit more, I'm going to write a spreadsheet calculator for it and probably post it here.
Wade
Thank you
Handmade Usb, Lighting, Clocks and Fine Art objects
https://www.etsy.com/shop/BatLab
Hi Wade, Thanks very much for documenting the buying process and your experiences with Bodor. I am contemplating making an order for one of their 1220x2500 laser cutters. I'm not sure whether to go for a leadscrew or belt drive. the lead screw and servo combination is over $4000 dollars extra and I'm not sure it's necessary. How do you find the belt drive/stepper combination? is the resolution ok any lost steps? I've built a 1220x2440 CNC router which I run 7 hours a day, this is stepper driven and I'm about to upgrade it to closed loop hybrid steppers. I'm thinking that the cutting forces are that mach smaller with a laser that steppers may be OK. My concern is that the gantry weight and quick direction changes may cause belt stretch or lost steps. Also I'm new to lasers, does going for 150w over 100w allow thicker material or faster speeds or both? I was looking at their metal and non metal 150w combined machines but I'm apprehensive about blasting oxygen into the mix for metal cutting and blowing up my workshop. Anyone had experience of this? They seem to offer sealed lasers, RF lasers and combination lasers....I think the combination allow metal and none metals. Could anyone explain the key differences between these types. If I do proceed I will follow in Wade's footsteps and document the process.
Hi Yurtman,
No problem. I kind of enjoyed sharing the experience. I can't tell you what to do about the leadscrew vs. belt drive, but here is what I can tell you. I do a lot of work where I set the power of the laser very low and then "draw" images so it looks kind of like woodburning. Basically the outlines of letters. On my old laser, which was 900x600@80W, I would do this type of work at 100mm/sec, but when I tried that on the Bodor, I found that the gantry is that much heavier and that I would occasionally get a missed step when doing alot of tiny engraving, which makes the head move VERY quickly. I wound up dropping down to 75/mm/sec, and quite honestly, with the ramping up and down of speed for starts and stops that is built into the controller, there was only about a 5 second decrease in time on 3 minute job at 100/mm/sec. The one thing I did notice is that when it did miss a step and screw something up, it actually compensated and corrected itself. I don't think it has encoders, but I could be wrong as it sure acts like it does.
As far as the drive-belt stepper combination, I'm very pleased with it. It is VERY accurate and precise. If I cut a 3/4" hole, it cuts EXACTLY a 3/4" hole. The kerf of the beam is very small too, about .004". The one nice thing is that if your belt does stretch, there is a TON of adjustment room to take up the slack. I wouldn't worry about it myself. The only thing I don't like is that they have 2 steppers which control up/down on the motorized table. I think it should only be 1 stepper as they get out of sync a bit.
The more power, the more you can blast thru. However, I have rarely gone about 80-90W. I wanted the bigger tube (130W) so that I didn't HAVE to push max power thru the laser. Gives you a longer tube life by not maxing it out (IMHO).
Please note the metal cutting machines are NOT CO2, and start at about $66k USD for their 1309-500W fiber laser.
Wade
Hey Wade, the metal cutting model I was looking at is a CO2 but relies on oxygen assist. I'm apprehensive about this, there are a few examples of CO2 cutting metal on youtube but the norm as you mention is cutting metal with a fiber laser. The 150w combination laser is limited to 1.2mm steel, and I'm not sure I'll be cutting much of this. I imagine I'll mainly be cutting plastics, thin ply, mdf and fabrics which a CO2 is ideal for.
I think the larger format machines just lower the Z/laser head rather than raising the bed. Thanks for your appraisal of the belt drive, I'm just a bit concerned on the 2.5m long y axis that there will be backlash problem with the belt, but maybe not.
Any idea what the difference is between their description of a sealed laser vs RF laser?
I would go with CO2. If you want to do metal, get a fiber laser.
I have no issues with backlash whatsoever.
Not sure of the sealed vs. RF - sorry.
Wade
Bit of a novice question.....what eye protection is required/advisable? The smaller machines are enclosed and have a plastic screen, the larger bed machines I am looking at are open. It looks like the tube is concealed but the laser head is open. The machine will be in an open workshop and it's not realistic for everyone in the workshop to wear glasses all the time.
From what research I have done, regular safety glasses will protect your eyes from the wavelength of a co2 laser. I'd still be damned careful tho as a beam bouncing off something and hitting you skin could still hurt you bad. I guess I'd ask people that have open bed lasers how they deal with safety.
Wade
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hey Wade, what's the viewing window made from on your machine? I just read info on this page: Synrad CO2 Laser Safety and it states that: 'Viewing windows, microscopes, and protective eyewear must prevent access above Class I. That is not normally a problem for CO2 laser energy since the 10.6 µm energy is absorbed by polycarbonate, acrylic, and most other plastic and glass window materials'. If this is true, I'm not sure why specific safety glasses are required when any plastic will do.
My viewing window is Acrylic. You asked about a laser with no protective lid. So, REGULAR safety glasses absorb the 10,600 nm range too if you don't have a lid. I never said anything about specific safety glasses.
Sorry if I wasn't clear.
Wade
Sorry Wade, you were clear. I was just checking out some safety glasses online, and their recommended ones are $129 which seems overkill if any plastic lab glasses will do. I just want to be safe, but I don't want to pay top dollar for glasses that aren't necessary. I'm now considering a smaller format enclosed laser cutter like the one you have as I'm nervous about the openly view-able laser head on the large bed type.
Trust me, I panicked and was actually pretty upset when I first got my laser and found out that it had a clear shield. I thought it had to be yellow safety glass. I spent a long time researching and getting quotes on having one made out of laser safe glass. Then I called a company called Laser Safety and got in touch with one of their engineers. He explained the wavelength stuff to me at that point, and informed me that 1/4" acrylic was more than adequate to block the 10,600nm wavelength of the CO2 laser. I actually did get a pair of "laser safe glasses" when I purchased my laser which I use occasionally if there is a particularly bright light when I am cutting. The "sun spots" it can cause are uncomfortable, but a good pair of polycarb sunglasses with tint will cut that glare down too.
Even if you get an open-bed laser, you should be fine if you wear safety glasses, and have anyone that comes to see your machine wear safety glasses before you run it.
The tinting is still a good idea tho.
Wade