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#1
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| I saw in the Lowes flyer that they have a 9" band saw for $89. Looks like a decent saw. Except that it only has one speed 2600fpm (1750RPM). Has a work light, laser line, 3.5" cutting capacity, adjustable rip fence, table and miter guage Anyone have one of these? Think it may work good for aluminum? |
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#2
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| Oops, forgot the link.... http://www.lowes.com/lkn?action=prod...-38307-LS9BSUL |
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#3
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| Bandsaws less than 14" are fairly ineffective. Also note that most blades you find in stores will dull quite quickly with aluminum -- expect to pay around $17 per blade for anything with any quality (buy from Highland Hardware or Suffolk Machinery and you'll be amazed at the difference). You'd probably be able to accomplish your cuts on a miter saw or table saw for about the same cost in blades -- do you have a particular plans for this bandsaw? |
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#5
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| I couldn't get your link to work. I bought a Delta 9" bandsaw. It is a real piece of crap to be honest. It has plastic wheels!! It was cheap though $75. And it WILL part aluminum. Although making a straight line is near impossible. The blade did dull very quickly. It vibrates and makes a lot of noise, and it leaves a horrendous butcherd finish. But at least it will make small pieces out of big ones, which is all I wanted it to do anyway. Swami |
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#6
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| You don't have to go broke on a bandsaw....but I've also gone the 9" route... and like said already.... couldn't cut a straight line with a fence. And anything over 1/4... forget about it.... not happening... Check this out... Wholesale Tool I've gotten some equipment from them, some import.. some standard.. If you get a decent known import manufacturer, it's hard to beat. Just a thought... good luck! -Art |
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#7
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| I myself have been looking at the HF unit...it's $169 on their website and the local HF store said they would honor that price with a print out from the website. Most of the reviews that I've seen end up replacing the motor after a couple of years for a US motor. Also they run unattended and at a much lower speed then the wood bandsaws you'll also use the 4 or 6 tpi bi-metal blades. |
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#8
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| I was lucky enough to score a 14" bandsaw made by Rikon, right before all the Woodworkers Warehouse stores closed up, It's got a 1 1/2 hp motor, 2 speeds.... accepts up to a 3/4" blade. Granted it does run alittle fast for cutting metal, which I'm going to gear it up to change that very soon. But believe it or not, I've had some of the best Bi-metalic blades made ... by Starrett, Lenox... the $ 28 to $35 blades..etc. and they didn't last near as long as a plain old carbon blade of between 6 -10 tpi. I'm also primarily cutting aluminum, but I've cut up to 1 + inch solid plate 6061 with no issues on a carbon blade. Once I get the speed down in the 80 - 220 fpm range... I'll have to see if there's a difference then. I've found that when the blade is running too fast, the teeth clog up with AL, and it can turn into a dangerous situation quickly if you don't realize what has happened. just my .02 -Art |
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#9
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| FYI guys, you must apply flood coolant to bandsaw aluminum, or at least a tiny stream of it anyway. It makes a world of difference. I've sawn lots of 5.25" solid round without a hitch with coolant, but dry cutting (even with wax) is a nightmare.
__________________ First you get good, then you get fast. Then grouchiness sets in. (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) |
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#10
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I cannot flood my bandsaw. Will a little cutting fluid help, or would it be insignificant? Thanks, Swami |
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#11
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| If you're cutting thick runs of ALuminum Or Steel... 4" plus then adding coolant is a must, not an option. But in my experience, if the blade speed is slow enough, I've had excellent luck with just using an old candle prior to cutting. Hold it against the blade with the bandsaw running ( Do this carefully...even laying the candle on the table then slide it over against the blade ) Hold it on each side of the blade for 5 to 10 seconds per side, then you will notice quite a difference in cutting ... especially Aluminum. ***I'm not knocking HuFlungdung's suggestions, flood cooling does make a world of difference... but can take some doing to rig up on certain saws. If it's not that large of a saw.... use an old powerhead from an aquarium setup for your pump.... they work pretty good. -Art |
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#12
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| You can rig up a temporary coolant bottle. If you have an empty 16 oz Safe-Tap fluid bottle, it has a little lift up nozzle to dispense the fluid. Buy a few inches of 1/8" flexible copper tubing. This size tubing, you can just force tightly into the nozzle and it won't leak. Then, fill the bottle with some water soluble coolant (because its cheap and aluminum isn't too fussy). Then, you can hold the copper nozzle right against the side of the blade while the saw is running to dispense a bit of fluid. Keep your fingers well away from the blade, if it takes the nozzle on you, so be it...make another one. It doesn't take a whole lot to be effective. I don't say it even has to be continuous flow, but if the whole band gets wetted every 15 seconds or so, it should help.
__________________ First you get good, then you get fast. Then grouchiness sets in. (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) |
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