Lowes band saw`

[Swami]

With my bandsaw, I have a feeling that would lead to an incredible mess. Woudln't even a "temporary" setup need to have a way to collect all the fluid? I guess I could set the whole bandsaw inside of a tub....

Swami

[HuFlungDung]

No, it actually doesn't. You don't have to have so much coolant that it is running everywhere. That's just the easier method. But, sawdust makes a mess anyways, so you do need a tray to collect the waste.

[ViperTX]

So, we are all in agreement that you need a lower speed for metal then wood, that coolant is required to maximize the efficiency of the cutting process and that bi-metal blades are the preferred option, but these options can be personalized.

[Swede]

The ubiquitous $230-or-so 4" x 6" metal cutting band saw has to be one of the best bargains out there. If you can afford it vs. a plastic bandsaw, then I'd say go for it. I use mine 95% as a chop saw, but it's pretty easy to rig up a slotted table out of, say, 3/8" aluminum plate, and go vertical with it. I've never flooded it, just dribble in some tapmatic gold in the Kerf now and then, but I have no doubts that flood would improve the cut.

Most of them have three speeds. Here's the harbor freight model at a ridiculous $169. I've had mine for 10 years with no problems. You do need to do the blade guide setup correctly with feeler guages. Once set, it'll do an impressively straight cut. There's nothing like a hacksaw vs even this bandsaw through a 3" aluminum or brass round. It'll do steel too.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=37151

[Kmed]

Look into one of the msc band saws. They are a little more expensive but have 45" or so blades, good cvariety and variable speeds. they also have tables, or can use them as a chop saw. They dont cut perfectly staright, but nether do moany or the larger industrial saws (depending on which one, or the thickness of material. Only realy way for a really straight cut is with a cutoff saw which is crazy expensive)... I believe my small MSC saw was about $250, and my new one was $6500 (used). I still use the MSC often as it works great for aluminum bar stock under 1" and with my home made drip collant, works wonders for the money spent.

[DAB_Design]

I actually picked up the one Swede posted a link to from Harbor Freight. It's on sale online for $169. I get to the store with the print out of the price (they'll honor it) and the lady is like "you don't want this price". Um....ok I say. "We have it marked at $149". Sold!

[sol]

Yeah I picked up one of those Chinese jobs in the late 80s (looks just like what Harbor Freight now sells- see Swede's link, post 16) and it is still performing well enough. A tray between the flimsy legs stabilized the thing while adding storage for cut-offs. Some real wheels made it much easier to drag around as well.
The motor did die after a few years and the switch gave up too, but the castings are solid if rough and the wearing parts are adjustable so the price to use ratio seems pretty good.
For cooling/lube I use a squeeze bottle filled with coolant. There is always a bottle leaving the kitchen...dish washing liquid, syrup, ketchup, etc. to replace the coolant bottle when it gets nasty and worn.
I've had mixed results with different blades of varying quality. Not sure if the expensive ones are worth the price since cheap ones are so much cheaper. Were the saw not cutting every kind of scrap metal that came through the door I'd probably stick with the better blades but it only takes one goof to ruin a blade. Oops, there went another $30...ahh fiddlesticks.

[TJJ]

WD-40 has worked for me when sawing or maching aluminum. It seems to make the chips not hold to the saw blade and clog up so easy. And I suppose it aids in cooling and lubricates too.

[DareBee]

I use WD-40 for that as well.
WD-40 is about as common as tiolet paper as well