Randy's Router - #1

[randyf1965]

OK, I used the toner transfer method and etched my boards. Found that Sharpie permanent marker does a good job repairing traces.

Also etchant works about twice as fast when it is WARM compared to room temp.

Having trouble getting the toner off the boards now, have to get some Acetone unless someone has a better method.

I scanned the boards before and after etching (once I figure out HOW to post them!)

[trubleshtr]

Did you use an iron to transfer to the board?
I was wondering did you use the sharpie to fill in the missing toner?
I have never done my own boards, but I have a starter kit in my basement I want to try out one day.

[WP1]

Not only does warm etchant work faster, but an aquarium air pump and air stone also makes a big difference by maintaining agitation. An aquarium heater works nicely as well.

The only problem with this is that you still have headaches aligning double sided boards, no plated through holes, no solder mask and no silk screen.

There are a lot of PC fab houses now that will give you free board layout software and produce small run DS/plated through/solder masked and silk screened boards in week for under $75. A few even have an ultra basic DS/plated through option without the mask and screen for even less.

You can find many of these outfits advertising in Circuit Cellar, most are US or Canada.

It's about at the point where it's not worth the trouble to etch your own boards and have the uncertainty of alignment and hairline cracks when a few $ more will have pro quality boards on your doorstep by the end of the week.

I used to etch my own boards in the past, but I doubt I will for my next project, even though I like playing with chemicals.

Pete C.

[chuckknigh]

Why are you trying to get the toner off the boards? It'll protect the copper, and "disappear" with the heat of the soldering iron.

If I were you, I'd just leave it.

So, how did you do the toner transfer? Plastic overhead transparency sheet, or clay coated paper, or what? I've read mixed reviews of every process, though your boards seem to have come out rather nicely.

Give us some hints!

-- Chuck Knight

[randyf1965]

Staples "Picture Paper" (30-sheet package): item #471861. It is $9.99 for 30 sheets. www.staples.com

it cost me:

$9.99 for the paper (30 sheets)
$4.00 for the boards (2-4x6)
$3.99 for the etchant (16oz)
Knowledge gained PRICELESS!

I printed the toner transfers 6 on a page at work. Cut them out, 2 minutes of ironing. Soaked in hot water for a couple of minutes then rubbed the paper off and used an old toothbrush to clean off the rest.

The first board with cold etchant took 20 minutes in a plastic container rocking back and forth. the next 3 took less than 10 after I sat the container in a sink with HOT water.

I don't think a double sided board would be that hard. I would iron 1 side to the board then drill 4 holes (maybe 2 would work) thru the board at opposite corners. Drill the other side toner traces int he same spot then use jumper wire to align it long enough to iron a couple of spots on the board to secure the toner sheet to it. Remove the jumpers and iron it on and continue as before.

If you look at the boards I made after they were etched, there are initials etched on the boards the upper left was my first try, Sharpie marker was on too thin but the others turned out great.

I am going to try roughing up the front of the board with sandpaper (fine) then printing the front silkscreen with yellow toner (work again) and ironing it on.

[randyf1965]

Ordered my stepper from AutomationDirect the 276oz Bipolars.... still working on the pic reprogram of 2 flaky pic's. Should have it working tomorrow, get the steppers Thursday.

Looking to buy my wood this weekend and start cutting and building.


Plenty of pictures to follow

[vladdy]

It's not neccesary to remove the toner, it'll protect the copper a bit, but if you want it gone, easiest way is scotchbrite or steel wool pads, fast..

After assembly and soldering you can always spray on a layer of conformal to protect it after, or if you're cheap, semi transparent glass paint from Walmart works pretty good too, I like the blue myself..

[randyf1965]

I am looking for a 8.2v zener diode. I built a JDM pic programmer but only had a 6.2 and a 9.1v zener and neither work. Plan calls for a 8.2v but I can't find it locally (Joliet IL) and shipping stinks on a $.09 part (Mouser $5.59)hahahaha

I can't get it to program the pic. keep getting verify errors in WinPic
Verifying 0x002007..0x002007
Verify Error: 002007: read 003FFF, wanted 003F45
ERROR: Programming FAILED !

Anyone work with this programmer? or have one that use 5.1v, 6.2 or 9.1v zeners! or know where a 8.2v zener is used? PC power supplies? vcr?

[vladdy]

you can add standard diodes on top of the 6.2 zener [forward], as each will have the standard .67 volt drop, so...three diodes on top should give around 8.2....should be close enough for that circuit, as most zeners have a +/- of .2v

enjoy..

[randyf1965]

on top?

[vladdy]

yep...remember, zener voltage is 'aaproximate, so this will be 'close'

image enclosed shows voltage levels with three diodes inserted, I used models for 1N4001 diodes, 1N914 will give similar reference..

[gmfoster]

Originally Posted by randyf1965 on top?

In serries..

Garry