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  #361   Ban this user!
Old 09-24-2009, 04:37 PM
 
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Thanks! Which command will restore X after the driver install is successful? Just shut down and restart? Or log out then log in again?

CarveOne
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Resistance is not futile. It is voltage divided by current (R=V/I).

Last edited by CarveOne; 09-24-2009 at 06:32 PM.
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Old 09-25-2009, 05:41 AM
 
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I didn't do anything to the CNC machine yesterday and will be doing other things today and tomorrow as well. I'll pick up a sheet of metal of some sort and an oak board when I go into town today. Will start construction of a control box on Sunday. Worked on the banjo neck yesterday.

CarveOne
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Resistance is not futile. It is voltage divided by current (R=V/I).
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Old 09-25-2009, 09:08 AM
 
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Originally Posted by CarveOne View Post
Thanks! Which command will restore X after the driver install is successful? Just shut down and restart? Or log out then log in again?

CarveOne
you can just type

reboot

from the command prompt once the driver install is complete
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Old 09-25-2009, 10:23 AM
 
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You can do startx should start up the xWindow. If we're talking about linux here
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Old 09-25-2009, 10:46 AM
 
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Originally Posted by Hdale85 View Post
You can do startx should start up the xWindow. If we're talking about linux here
Thanks!

Ubuntu Linux 8.04 for EMC2 machine control use. I have it set up as a dual boot installation with Vista Business edition. I'll get back to the driver install later this weekend and see what happens.

CarveOne
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Old 09-26-2009, 05:40 PM
 
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CarveOne's no-welding, cheap to build, CNC monitor stand

A plumbing department mini-build project.

The parts for it are all 2" diameter schedule 40 PVC plumbing pipe and couplings with some scrap red oak and plywood added. After cutting and gluing I sprayed it with hammered silver paint for that "Faux galvanized pipe" look in keeping with the decor of my machine's metal parts. Just about $25 usd total cost involved (not including the red oak scraps). The plywood monitor plate in the photo has been replaced with red oak. Zip ties hold the monitor stand to the pipe stand securely enough. The stand has about 45 degrees of swivel range. The monitor itself can swivel vertically. There is a little flex when shaking the monitor but no freeplay in the vertical pipe to the leg mounts. The monitor and keyboard is at a height that works well for standing, or sitting on the stool.

Parts list:

1ea. 2" x 60" schedule 40 PVC pipe (2 each 2"x24" will work ok also)
2ea. 22 1/2 degree elbow
1 ea. shower base drain (Oatey #42045 PVC, screw-in strainer assembly is not used, just the housing)
6 ea. #8 x 3/4" Phillips head sheet metal screw (Drain housing to monitor plate mounting screws)
6 ea. 2 1/2" deck screw (mounts support plates to the table leg)
1 ea. 1"x 8"x24" red oak board (I had scraps of this on hand)

CarveOne
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Old 09-26-2009, 06:13 PM
 
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Control box construction

I picked up two 1"x8"x24" red oak boards and two 16 gauge 12"x18" mild steel sheets yesterday while getting the monitor stand parts.

The box is 6" high, 12" wide, and 24" long. Each steel sheet is bent 90 degrees at 6" from one end of the 12" width. The 24" bender I have is not able to make sharp bends in 16 gauge (~1/16") steel, so I rounded off the corners of the oak to match the bend radius. The sheets are butt-jointed together in the middle of the box and will be MIG tack welded every inch spacing along the joint under the box and the tack welds ground flush before painting the sheet steel. The oak will be finished with Early American stain and polyurethane spray.

The top will be clear Lexan and hinged. The #8 hex head sheet metal screws will be changed to Phillips head wood screws. There should be room for the power supply in there but I prefer to put that in a separate box of similar construction. For heat sinking purposes I'm thinking of mounting two G203V drives on the steel sheet at each end of the box, with X axis at one end and Y and Z axis at the other end. There will be rubber feet on the bottom of the box.

CarveOne
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Old 09-27-2009, 04:14 PM
 
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I made the red oak monitor mount today and cleaned the tools off of the table for better photos (below).

The control box wood has been stained and sprayed with polyurethane. The control box metal has a coat of hammered silver on the outside of it and I'll reassemble it in another hour when it has had more time to dry enough to handle. Photos of it to be posted later this evening.

Lowes only had one size of 1/4" Lexan that was three times the size I needed, so I will get a custom cut piece at a local glass shop instead.

CarveOne
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Old 09-27-2009, 04:23 PM
 
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Found it!...wow nice work here, I love your motion bearings very neat and look just the job.I will keep a watch on you controller box
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Old 09-27-2009, 06:48 PM
 
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The control box still needs a lid, and I have a piece of 1/8" clear acrylic that I could use if I inlet it into an oak frame. The piece of acrylic has some scratches on it and it isn't very rigid, but it will do the job well enough. It is just needed for seeing the LEDS on the C11g breakout board.

The inside of the steel sheeting has not been painted. I won't do that until I tack weld the butt joint in the middle of the box.

CarveOne
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Old 09-27-2009, 06:58 PM
 
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Originally Posted by markraws View Post
Found it!...wow nice work here, I love your motion bearings very neat and look just the job.I will keep a watch on you controller box
Those are 1/4" x 4" x 6' cold roll steel flat stock from Fastenal, and cncrouterparts.com carriages. The X axis uses four of Ahren's longer carriages. The Y and Z axis uses four of his shorter carriages.

CarveOne
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Old 09-27-2009, 08:33 PM
 
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Originally Posted by CarveOne View Post
Thanks!

Ubuntu Linux 8.04 for EMC2 machine control use. I have it set up as a dual boot installation with Vista Business edition. I'll get back to the driver install later this weekend and see what happens.

CarveOne
Well then yeah if you are at the command line and everything is setup properly (xwindows settings) then running startx should get you right back into Gnome or whatever window manager you have set as default.
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