I would recommend using steel angle in place of the aluminium as the bearings wear groves and any wood dust/chips that get on the rails are pressed into the aluminium leaving impressions.
Love the pictures, really nice job.
I would recommend using steel angle in place of the aluminium as the bearings wear groves and any wood dust/chips that get on the rails are pressed into the aluminium leaving impressions.
If it can't be fixed with a hammer it must be an electrical problem!
Thanks cncAhrens
If it can't be fixed with a hammer it must be an electrical problem!
Too late to not use the ali now!!! I purchased some on my way to work this morning so I dont have to face the Bunnings crowd at lunchtime!!!!
The great thing about this design tho is that it is easy to pull apart and replace with steel at a later date.
Thanks for the link to that other website, explained it perfectly. Showed my wife the video of him using the router in the bathroom, and she looked at me and said "NO @$%#%ing WAY!!!!" Lucky I have a good size shop in the backyard where I can make lots of mess and noise.
Hey, any chance of getting hold of those dimensioned drawings so I can get an idea of sizes of the components?
Jon
Hi Jon,
I only did drawings for the z and y axis and a some of the parts changed the best and easiest thing for me would be for you to install the free e-drawings viewer and you will be able to use the measuring tool to measure the e-drawing I uploaded in one of the earlier posts. It will allow you see the entire router in 3d rotate, zoom, hide components and measure parts. I hope this helps. http://www.edrawingsviewer.com/
If it can't be fixed with a hammer it must be an electrical problem!
Thanks Daniel.
I have downloaded the eviewer files and program, but am not able to get measurements from it for some reason. Probably just me not being able to manipulate the software properly.
Started my build today, and will start a log of it in another thread.
Jon
(PS created a new user so I have the same username in several other forums I frequent)
Hi Jon,
Good to here you started your build can't wait to see what you come up with. I downloaded the e-drawing I posted and measure is enabled so it should work for you. I have attached a pic showing what to do to use it, I hope this works for you.
If it can't be fixed with a hammer it must be an electrical problem!
I haven't had much time to use my machine lately but I finally found some time over the weekend and made a vaccum table and started cutting out a foam plane for indoor rc.
If it can't be fixed with a hammer it must be an electrical problem!
Looking good.
My machine is coming along nicely, just got to find time to post some pics and write it up.
Machined up the leadscrew ends this week on a friends lathe (20 years since I used one and it felt so natural!!!) and trying to decide on a protective coating for the MDF................
I ordered the Hobby CNC 4 axis 305 ounce/in kit last night and can't wait for that baby to arrive. At the moment I feel like I am stuck in some sort of a time warp when I use my machine as it has a maximum speed of 300mm/min. I am currently in the process of designing my second machine which will be a 1250 x 650 torsion box style machine and I will run 2 leadscrews on the x-axis each with its own motor.
If it can't be fixed with a hammer it must be an electrical problem!
A lot has happened since my last post the machine has done approximately 25 hours and I have had to replace the spindle bearings in my little cheapy ozito router. The router originaly cost $50 and came with a spare set of brushes, which will come in handy as the 1st set have worn down halfway. The replacement bearings cost $14.85 and I’m told they are of much higher quality than the originals.
My Hobby CNC 305oz-in Pro Driver kit arrived and I have started putting it together. I have finished the circuit board, power supply and hooked up the motors and given it a test run, they are unbelievably faster than my current motors. I still have some small issues I believe to be software related with the motors jumping and making a PONG sound while they are running and I am trying to source 22awg cable I can purchase by the meter. If anyone with this kit and running mach 3 has a good starting point for the motor tuning settings I would appreciate a copy of them.
All in all the machine is running good, it is not quite as rigid as I would have hoped but it is fine for now and will be perfect to build mk2. I am extremely happy with the vacuum table I never expected a normal vacuum cleaner to be able to hold small sheets eg 400 x 300 while I run a ¼” through them.
I am still in the design stages of mk2 and will start a new post once I start the build. It will be similar to lionclaws 2nd machine and joes2006 with a few of my own little tweeks.
I have attached pictures of some of my work. I finished routing the Bi Plane and my mate assembled it, it flies but it is tail heavy and needs the motor to be moved forward to balance it out. My wife painted the mobile I cut out for our daughter and we hung it up over her cot. I cut out a box to house my new motor driver kit, it was really awesome to have full control of the size and layout instead of being constrained to what you can purchase from the local electrical store. And finally I cut out some bird nesting boxes for my father, it will be a shame to let something so nice end up covered in sh#t.
Daniel
If it can't be fixed with a hammer it must be an electrical problem!