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  #37   Ban this user!
Old 10-02-2007, 11:01 AM
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Canada
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pumelloman is on a distinguished road
Oct. 2, 2007

Alright! It's getting close to the end (hopefully)!!!

Yesterday I went out and bought some locking washers (because they were smaller diameter than the other 5/16 washers) for my bearing assembly. I also finished coating the pieces of wood with Polyurethane clear coat, while the weather was slightly drier (ie, wet but not as wet as it could be).

Drilled some holes for my frame as well, looking pretty good ^^ I'm overall fairly impressed with my work, considering this is my first project. I also discovered that I'd like to mill PCB's with this CNC, but I was reading that some people really discouraged wood due to the humidity and change in the machine's dimensions (low repeatability). Hopefully having some clear coat will help reduce that. I probably should have put more layers on but I'm running out of time. I might do more layers when I take the machine apart later to put on lock-tite.

Going to work on it some more tonight, I'm finally near the part where I'll need to use a cutting board LOL. I was wondering what that thing was for...time to head to Superstore with some Calipers, need the 3/8" THK one.

Enjoy the photos!
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  #38   Ban this user!
Old 10-02-2007, 09:18 PM
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
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gmfoster is on a distinguished road

Originally Posted by pumelloman View Post
Alright! It's getting close to the end (hopefully)!!!

Yesterday I went out and bought some locking washers (because they were smaller diameter than the other 5/16 washers) for my bearing assembly. I also finished coating the pieces of wood with Polyurethane clear coat, while the weather was slightly drier (ie, wet but not as wet as it could be).

Drilled some holes for my frame as well, looking pretty good ^^ I'm overall fairly impressed with my work, considering this is my first project. I also discovered that I'd like to mill PCB's with this CNC, but I was reading that some people really discouraged wood due to the humidity and change in the machine's dimensions (low repeatability). Hopefully having some clear coat will help reduce that. I probably should have put more layers on but I'm running out of time. I might do more layers when I take the machine apart later to put on lock-tite.

Going to work on it some more tonight, I'm finally near the part where I'll need to use a cutting board LOL. I was wondering what that thing was for...time to head to Superstore with some Calipers, need the 3/8" THK one.

Enjoy the photos!
You mention washers being oversize. You are right and I have found two solutions for flat washers. Often the next size down will fit the next size up bolt tightly. For example a 5/16 flat washer will fit a 3/8 bolt very well in most cases. And a 1/4 flat washer will fit a 5/16 in most cases. There may be exceptions but I have generally found this to be true.

Then today I found that "SAE" washers are a much tighter fit than the normal flat washers. The problem is they have to be obtained at speciality houses. However I have found "Fastenal" to be a good source but you might have to buy grade 9 to get the SAE washers.

Garry
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Old 10-02-2007, 09:50 PM
 
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CarveOne is on a distinguished road

Looking good pumelloman!

Looks like I may have to concede defeat soon. My metal parts orders were placed and are on the way but I doubt I will have mine assembled before you do. Don't leave any stepper motor smoke trails as you finish yours first.

CarveOne
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Old 10-03-2007, 12:34 AM
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
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armyliferarmy is on a distinguished road
CopyCarver

...so has anyone have anything good or bad to say about the CopyCarver? I am just in the beginings of investigations. I have a sign carver I bought with my dad 30 years ago and want to expand my horizons.
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Old 10-03-2007, 06:01 AM
 
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armyliferarmy,

There are even simpler designs online if you plug in the correct search terms.

1. You can build one of these a lot cheaper than a cnc carver.

2. The software is free and easy to use. (there is none)

3 . If you have an object that you want to duplicate and have a lot of patience you can use a small bit and probe tip and it can produce some very detailed carvings.

4. The original design from the CopyCarver plans works very well and you can modify it to use a linear bearing and shaft instead of the parallogram box. (It really isn't necessary if you use high quality close fitting hinges on the box.)

Many people making gunstocks for sale online use some variant of this design or other designs to rough out a stock blank quickly and then do the inletting by other means and finish up with plenty of hand work or Fordom flex shaft type tools.

People who make carved signs and props for ultralight aircraft engines use these. It can easily make duplicates of things like architectural carved blocks that you see in the older houses. Bird and fish carvers probably use them for roughing in a copy and then do the detail work by hand. Saves a lot of time and effort.

I attached a close up of my carriage assembly. It is flipped upside down on the rails for the photo. The structure is 1" iron water pipe and fittings, although 3/4" pipe would work fine. The pulley "wheels" are mounted to two 1/2" CRS shafts and have ball bearings at each end of the shafts. The pipe structure is mounted to the linear bearing housing block so that it can slide left/right and rotate up/down. I'm using an old Sears 3/4hp router to cut 1/4" birch ply and lite ply 2D parts with it until my cnc machine is completed.

EDIT -The "T" shaped affair on the right is a counterweight device that is partially filled with lead bullets or tire weights to make the probe almost balanced. You want the probe to be very easy to lift and move but it should be slightly lighter on the router/probe side of the linear shaft.

CarveOne
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Old 10-03-2007, 02:49 PM
 
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Oct. 3, 2007

Had to stay a little later at work yesterday, so I didn't get as much time to work on my machine as I would have liked. However I did do quite a bit, and because I stayed later yesterday, I get to leave earlier today ^^ (a better deal, I think).

Yesterday I just drilled the holes for the endplates (frame), the frame, and cut a piece of 3/4" EMT. Also bought a Cutting board for the motor mounts lol...probably should have just tried to find one but I'm short for time! Oh well.

More photos to come. Today I should be drilling the conduit (I hate drilling the conduit...) and cutting the legs.

After I get this all done though, I have to build a table to put it on!
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Old 10-04-2007, 11:59 AM
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Looking great! Keep up the good work.
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Old 10-04-2007, 04:19 PM
 
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Oct. 4, 2007

Don't have much time to post today, so I will write more later!

I chiseled out part of those feet for the table, and drilled holes in the conduit (as per the holes in the 2x4's, not blindly measuring...learned my lesson from the first one lol). Also received my router speed control, but there is no router to test it on at the moment...so still waiting for that and various other parts.

Ordered my wax, 2lbs of Green and 2lbs of Blue Ferris File-A-Wax. Lately it's cheaper too because of the CAN Dollar lol...sweeeeeet.


Enjoy!
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Old 10-09-2007, 07:07 PM
 
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pumelloman,

No posts from you in a while. Have you returned to school, or just too busy having fun with your new homebuilt?

CarveOne
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Old 10-09-2007, 11:14 PM
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
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armyliferarmy is on a distinguished road

Hey everyone, big question....Instead of a copycarver type setup - what kind of price am I looking at for a CNC wood router setup? I've got the computer but no software yet. Lots of computer knowledge but the mechanicals for the CNC I have no clue how much is involved. I do have mechanical skills but not sure if they are up to the task for this.


Thanks
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Old 10-10-2007, 06:57 AM
 
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armyliferarmy,

If you don't feel the need for a large machine you can build one of the standard RockCliff cnc routers for around $500 or less not including software. If you are a good scrounger of materials you can build it for less. The control board, stepper motors, and power supply will be the largest hardware expense.

Look in the RockCliff forums on cnczone.com and on the RockCliff website for more details. I have put close to $850 in my Solsylva 25x37 hardware so far but some of it is higher priced wood and leadscrew parts. Still need to buy the Mach3 and VCarve software that will cost more than the machine.

CarveOne
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Old 10-10-2007, 09:40 AM
 
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Hey CarveOne,
Yeah I've been pretty busy lately, my girlfriend just moved in so the "CNC Time" became "Time with Girlfriend" lately....it's also good, but it's just sad when I think about my CNC all alone in my shed, sitting uncompleted...I really want to work on it....

I think I'll be working on it this weekend, as well as picking up my machinable wax. I still have not received my transformer yet, (damnit Allied Electronics, charge me $30-$40 for shipping then take your sweet time.....) so I can't work on the electronics yet at home.

I'll look around for those EMT endcaps, seems like a pretty good idea. I have some pictures from some stuff I did before my girlfriend came (cutting the 3/8" cutting board). Now I just have to drill the appropriate holes, make the motor mounts, and I'm ready for assembly :O

So close, yet so far... you might just win the machine-race yet CarveOne hahaha.
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