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#1
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Last week, I made up a prototype of the Midi-Router. This helped me prove my ideas, and get a better detailed list of materials to order! X-Axis travel: 8.250" (209.5500 mm) Y-Axis travel: 9.700" (246.380 mm) Z-Axis travel: 2.029" (51.5366 mm) Height: 11.45" (290.83 mm) Width: 13.20" (335.280mm) Length:12.50" (317.5 mm) For starters, I made a new set of soft-jaws out of aluminum, the stock was 12x3x1. The new jaws are nice and high, so I placed 5-of the plates on edge, and used a 3" face mill to bring them to size. Next, I milled a small step in the soft-jaws, so that I could mill the two 1/8" deep, 1/4" wide slots the full length on all ten plates. The slot will be used to align the rail supports, which will be made next! A handy gage pin holder was used to hold the GO/NOGO pins for in process inspection of the slots. After all the slots were milled and deburred, I setup the stop on the vise and milled the plates to length. Then I drilled six #31 holes in the bottom of the slots, These holes get counterbored for #4-40 SHCS from the far side. These will allow for a long screw to go through the plate and the rail suppots, and screw into the hardened rails. Lastly, I placed my big angle plate on the mill, so I could drill & tap the three end holes for #10-24 threads. All ten plates took about 7-hours of shop time. Last edited by widgitmaster; 05-19-2007 at 04:39 PM. |
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#2
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| The nice thing about the new Midi-Router, is that it uses the exact same leadscrew for both the X & Y-Axis! So I used my new lathe which has been converted to an 8-station turrel lathe to run off 20 pieces of 1/2-10 Acme threaded rod! The Acme rod is made of 1010 steel, which is really cheesy, and has a tendency to load on the tool bit and smear a rough finish. So I found a nice 7" dia x 1/2 diamond wheel on eBay, this wheel fits nicey on my surface grinder, and allows me to get my brazed carbide tool bits nice and sharp. This keen edge and a flood coolant helps me turn my diameters with a better finish, which I polish a little with a Cratex (rubber abrasive) stick. Then I ran off a set of 10 pieces of the little Delrin Z-Axis nuts. VIDEO
__________________ www.widgitmaster.com It's not what you take away, it's what you are left with that counts! |
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#3
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| While working with the lathe, I decided to run off the 20 parts that act as spacers between the linear ball bushings on the x-Axis slide blocks! These aluminum doughnuts fit between the Linear busgings and the snap rings in the precision bores of the x-axis slides. VIDEO
__________________ www.widgitmaster.com It's not what you take away, it's what you are left with that counts! |
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#6
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| Cool idea starting a new thread.. I'm real curious now that I'm upgrading to a larger mill (Bridgeport Series 1 2R3E with Boss 10 controller) if things I end up doing will turn out at least a little nicer Widgit is a master. b. |
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#9
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| Today I made 20 Y-axis rail supports! The first step was to mill the stock to the calculated dimension supplied by my CAD software! The reason its calculated is that one edge of the 1/4" thick rail has a .1875 radius, and I needed to rough mill the stock to the theoretical points, leaving the radius operation for later. The bars were 1.125 x .25 x 11.5, they finish at .6102 x .25 x 11.25 So I setup the mill to remove 80% of the excess in one pass, and remove .005" on the return pass. This took me a while, so I ran a few operations on the turret lathe! After removing the 3-jaw chuck and installing the 5C collet chuck, I needed to bore a soft 5C collet to hold the little aluminum spacers that were done yesterday. This allows me to hold an odball size of .870, which fits too sloppy in a standard 7/8" collet. I like to use the soft collets, as I have made several just to hold the parts I make for the Mini & Midi-Routers! Also, there is no need for a collet stop, as the bore has a flat bottom for the parts to stop against! The facing of the aluminum spacers was a short run, so back to the rail supports! Once I had the width milled on all 20 rails, I milled them all to length! Now its time to mill the .1875 radius down the edge center of the rails, so I loaded up a .375 ball end mill, and took a light pass. Then I placed a steel rail in the radius, and used a micrometer to measure the distance from the bottom of the rail support to the top of the steel rail. After adjusting the mill depth, I reset the knee to zero, and backed it off .002. Took one rough pass, and moved .002" for a cleanup pass. The dimension from the top of the rail is critical, so I used my electronic micrometer to measure each piece to keep them all within .0005" parallel! The last operation is to drill the mounting holes through the rail supports, this operation was quick as I could flip the rail and drill a hole the same distance from each end, followed by one in the middle! Another set of parts finished! ![]() The Y-Axis slide blocks and bronze bushings are next! Widgit Last edited by widgitmaster; 05-20-2007 at 07:20 PM. |
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#10
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| Another good day in the shop! The blocks for the y-axis slide have been squared up on the mill, along with the z-axis top & bottom plates. The z-axis slide block neeed more than just squaring up, so I spent the remainder of the day milling them to print! The z-axis slide has three little t-slots, so after milling the center slot I milled the t-slots. VIDEO1 (over 55MB) VIDEO2 (over 55MB) The jaws in the vise are hardened, and I have milled a step in them to eliminate having to use parallel which always cause problems! The jaws were easy to mill with a 1/2" solid carbide 4-flute end mill, after the vise was carefully dialed in! The next operations will be to drill, tap, & bore all the holes in the Y&Z axis components. Last edited by widgitmaster; 05-23-2007 at 09:50 PM. Reason: added more pics & text! |
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#12
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| I just thank Eric for providing access to them! Garry |
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| Tags |
| 9.125 x 8.250 x 3.900, delrin acme nut, kress proxxon dremel, midi & wide routers, midi router, nema23 steppers |
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