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#1
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Hi Everyone I Got The Cnc Bug About Two Years Ago. After Looking At Web Sites And Ebay For A 1 1/2 YEARS I Realized I Was Not Going To Find A Good Used Or Cheep Cnc So I Bought A Stepperwold Kit And Built One. Dont Laugh At My First Monster I Built It Before I Found The Cnc Zone [had No Idea What I Was Doing] Anyhow I Came Up With This New Idea And I Think Its Going To Be Pretty Good So I Thought I Share It With You Guys. I Will Post More Pics. Along The Way. sorry i didnt have room for pics of 1st machine in this post i will put them in next one. |
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#3
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| Ok So I Got All The Alu. From 80/20 Garage Sale. I Was Very Happy With It. 6105-t5 Nice Stuff To Work With. I Used Pan Heads Counter Sunk To Bolt The Frame Together. After I Squared It Up I Had To Add A Few Shims To Make It Perfect I Will Post More Pics Tommorow Last edited by jeffg; 02-20-2007 at 05:34 AM. Reason: add pics |
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#4
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| Ok Building The Bearing Blocks. The X Pieces I Used Are The Same Inserts You Use For Bolting The Frame Together They Are Threaded On Two Ends You Just Have To Cut One Ear Off {be Carefull!!!}.then When You Start Bolting Tmem Together The Side Play Adjustment Is In The Form Of Shims And Washers Top And Bottem Play Has Slots On Bottem Of Side Plates With 10/32 Socket Heads For Adjustment. Be Carefull Respect The Machine Becouse It Does Not Respect You. |
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#6
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| I do not think leadscrews will work well for this project unless you are traveling 20ipm to avoid bad whipping, So that being said I would go for a rack and pinion system or belt drive with a min. of 2:1 reduction if not more. Joe |
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#7
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| the only problem i see so far is the hardened steel rollers will wear on the alumn. pretty quickly and you will need to adjust the rollers a little more than usual if it was an all steal construction. Also another note: If you add a cross piece along the bottom of the gantry side to side this will help prevent the Alumn. from tilting on the sides. Please consider these as an opinion only and just as a help sugestion. Joe |
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#8
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| looks good, I hope you add a lot of bracing to the framework. Also are the bearings running on the aluminum surface? unfortunately that wont last long, but it looks like you could easily subsitute a piece of 1/4 steel plate and bolt it on to the sides. I know what it is like to build a monster, my first running router is about 4' square cube in space, yet only cuts 28"x18"x4". Just used materials on hand and that is what resulted. sorry, didnt see joe's post about the rollers... |
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#9
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| HEY GUYS THANKS FOR LOOKING.I AM TRYING TO WORK OUT THE BRACEING AS I GO. TO ANSWER STUDYSESSION WWW.ROTON.COM HAS ALL ACME AND BALL SCREWS THEY STOCK IN 12 FT LENGTHS WILL CUT TO ORDER AND NUTS GOOD PRICES THEY CAN SHIP UPS GROUND UP TO 9 FT.I WAS THINKING ABOUT A 1"ACME WITH BRONZE NUT FOR X AND 3/4 FOR Y. MY OTHER MACHINE CUT AT A WHOPPING 12 IPM I WILL BE HAPPY IF THE NEW ONE CUTS AT 40-80 IPM THE OTHER ISSUE IS THE ALUMINUM WEARING I THOUGHT ABOUT THAT THIS STUFF FROM 80/20 IS 6015 GRADE T5 TEMPERED WHEN I CUT THE 3/8x6 FLAT STOCK ON MY CHOP BOX I WANTED TO SAND OUT THE BLADE MARKS ON THE BELT SANDER IT TOOK SOME TIME TO CLEAN THE EDGES UP BESIDES I HOPE BY THE TIME I WEAR OUT THE RAILS I FIND A GOOD DEAL ON SOME THK RAILS. HERES A PIC. A LITTLE MORE PROGRESS |
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#10
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| HEY GUYS I AM GOING TO NEED SOME HELP IN THE ELECTRONICS DEPT. I WAS THINKING OF USING KELING DRIVES I AM NOT SURE WHAT STEPPERS ? MAYBE NEMA34 600oz? I BOUGHT A POWER SUPPLY ON EBAY 24v 18amp REGULATED CONTINOUS. WHAT IS THE REGULATED AND UNREGULATED?? HERE IS A PIC OF THE POWER SUPPLY. TELL ME WHAT YOU THINK?? |
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#11
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| Depends on the motors and drives you choose, but you'll probably want a 36V to 48V power supply. Something about 15-20 times the motors voltage rating. And try not to type with the caps lock on.
__________________ Gerry Mach3 2010 Screenset http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) |
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