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#1
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Ok...after months of looking at different plans, I have started building something of my own. However, keep in mind, I am an extreme newbie who needs lots of help. Hence, my plea for "What Next" I have attached some pictures of what I have done so far. I'm not trying to build cheap, but I don't need everything to be high end either. I enjoy building....but I'd also like to get the damn thing done so I can use it. Included with my pictures is a rendering of someone elses CNC which I like and would like to emulate. Thanks all! |
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#3
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Hmmmm....should I have the CNC Zone Attorney review my plans for patent infringments. I think I should put a X axis lead screw on next, but I'm not sure what to use or how to install/attach it to what I have. |
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#4
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| I would build everything first, get it sliding smoothly (all three axis) then figure the motor, bearings blocks, backlash nuts, leadscrewand etc., placement from that, its easier to adjust brackets, than the whole machine. joe |
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#7
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I'll keep posting and sending pictures as I go. I was hoping for a little more help than I've gotten so far, I don't mean to sound unappreciative here, but I'm a little out of my area on this one. The frame is 30x34. No special reason. I just wanted it to be bigh enough to make a sign or project that was 24 inches. I also picked up the 8020 cheap online. Some questions I have: 1. I was thinking of just making the vertical sections of the gantry out of a 3 inch wide 8020 extrusion bolted directly to the X axis block bearing. I don't know if this is enough. Will this cause binding? I've seen so many projects that spread the vertical section of the gantry on two blocks per side. 2. How tall should the Y axis if the gantry be. I was thinking about running it below the frame so that I could attach it to the X axis lead screw from underneath and then 7 or 8 inches above the frame. A total of probably less than 12 inches. 3. Also...trying to think ahead alittle...how will I attached the lead screw? Stay tuned for more exciting episodes!!! |
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#8
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| On your question on dimensions; If you are confident the designer of this machine is reliable enough for you to copy ,with careful measuring of the drawing all you need is there, well close enough I would say. As for your other question I am not qualified enough to give an opinion although I could if I had to but could be wrong so I wont. One question did you consider fully supported bearing shaft, what was the cost difference and would you think that the difference would not justify the extra $$$. Has anybody else reading this thread built a similar machine; and would like to suggest design changes? John |
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#9
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| One thing you may want to move this thead to the metal machines, this section is wood design machines. I thought that was the design in the first picture was what you are building verbatum. but after reading your comments below, i see you are just using it as a guide. since the rails are unsupported, and you are using one bearing block each side, yes i would use a bottom cross member on the gantry, and attach the x-axis lead screw to it. using the 8020 for the gantry uprights should work fine and make it easier to adjust, the height will depend on the cutting clearance you want and also how you plan on doing the Z-axis which usualy hangs below the Y-axis of the gantry. joe
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#11
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you may be right since it says woodworking machines, a little confusing. |
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#12
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| Machines for cutting wood.
__________________ Gerry Mach3 2010 Screenset http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) |
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