I've been cruising this sight for about a year and a few months ago I desided to take the plunge. I started off by creating it in Mechanical Desktop, then off to build. I used 2" & 3/4" EMT for the rails, 1/2-10 acme rod for drive, MDF, UHMW, assorted shelf brackets, 3/4" x 3/4" alum. angle, rollerblade bearings, Xylotex 3 axis kit w/powersupply, Utili-trak from hartvilletool.com, and a 2 1/4hp Hitachi router. I'll add some pics of my control box later.
Last edited by HUTCHMAN; 05-19-2006 at 12:08 AM.
Wow thats bright. No chance of accidentally walking into it.
Looks real nice.
The only problem I can see is its too clean. Needs some sawdust.
Paul
Nicely made and great colour choice. I like the quick release(simple and colour cooridinated at that). Unfortunately my machine will look at bit dull compared as it will be painted dark blue in order not to clash with the router.
Very Nice.
I see you went with 3 screws to align the axis. What made you decide to go with 3 instead of 4? Is it easier to get alignment? I'm in the process of designing a similar machine and always like to get an understanding of other peoples ideas.
So what was the first that you have cut?
It looks good and it looks like you're real close to the finish line! I'm still somewhere near the middle of my build project and I honestly can't believe how much work it's taken just to get this far! Congradulations on a job well done!
94vette,
I used three screws instead of four because with three I can guarantee I can lock it in position and still have it infinitely adjustable. With four for instants - you could have 3 tightened down , but if one has a gap or isn't as snug as the other ones while you’re running your toolpath it may shift enough to be noticed.
Can you say redo...the idea actually comes from building fixtures for ultrasonic
welding machines so I know it works (I'll take a sure bet any time). I've seen a wobbly 4-legged table but never a wobbly 3-legged table! Also I haven't cut yet, I've just finished wiring up my controller box and I'm waiting on a DB25 cable I hade to order because of it's length. In the mean time I think I'm going to add bellows to my y-axis tabel in the front and back to keep the debre off of my rails and acme rod.
I hope this helps.
Last edited by HUTCHMAN; 05-24-2006 at 10:23 AM.
CanSir,
Thanks for the props. To be honest I'd never thought I'd be at this point ...ever!!! But hay, here I am and now each and every step is getting more and more exciting. I guess now would not be the time to mess up. The electronics are not my strong suit so I've been completely paranoid with every schematic step. Thats also why I went with a 3-axis motor drive kit. Well if your half way here, keep plugging away. And if you have any questions just post them, because if I can't answer it some on this forum will.
Good luck and full steam ahead....and if something breaks you can always fix it...
Here are a couple of pics of my control box I've just finished up. I started with a 9$ tool box from Walmart. Bent sheet metal (used for duct work) to form the floor and then mounted everything to it. I also found another cable that should work. Hopefully by tomorrow I can get this thing moving if I can squeeze the time out that I need.
A toolbox... what an absolutely cool idea! Your design ROCKS!!
vroooom
I've used cheap metal toolboxes for other projects. I would recommend this to others as much better than making an MDF box as some have done. Most connectors, switches etc are designed for mounting on metal so this makes life much easier.Originally Posted by HUTCHMAN
Paul
It could just be my fear of anything electronic that I've soldered together, but I kinda like the fire-containment ability the metal toolbox offers. Good suggestion Hutchman!
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