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#1
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Here goes a quick build. I bought 3 ball screw units. 230mm travel approx 9" 750mm travel approx 29" 1190mm travel approx 46" these units are complete ready to go units. They have the NEMA 23/34 mounts, bearing blocks. this is my drawings for designing. I will add pictures of the real parts tomorrow. I will be using 8020 for the frame. Im hoping this goes fairly quick [IMG]back and front of units[/IMG] |
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#6
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Here is where I am at today. I drew up the frame and I think that I got it how I want it. Im going to use all 8020 extrusions. The square stock in the picture is 3030 and the rectagular is 1530. I put the linear slides on the sides of the frame to keep it out of shavings and dust. I spread them out to the outsides of the uprights, it is about 7.5" apart at the moment. If needed, I could use 1545 for the uprights and then the bearings will be about 10.5" apart. I will make a small plate for the ball nut and attach it to the cross member underneith the table. Also the lead screw is mounted below the frame. Frame will have brackets, either "L" brackets or flat mounting plates from 8020. My main goal with the 8020 is that I can square up the rails and make them parallel by sliding up and down the slots. Does any one see anything that I may be missing??? comments???? [IMG]picture[/IMG] |
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#8
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I put the Y slide rails on. and I mounted the lead screw inside the bridge. Add comments here. Is there anything that you dont like or do you think this is solid design? I will try to add the Z axis today. [IMG]bridge[/IMG] Last edited by cncfoam; 01-25-2006 at 11:00 AM. |
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#9
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Here is the final design. I will make a few changes, but only to the lengths I will make a longer plate for the router mount, so that the router will hang below the bottom of the bridge.(gantry) Also, I will raise the Z verticals(darkest color) so that they will also be no lower than the bottom of the gantry. I will probably make the uprights to the bridge longer so I can get more clearance under the gantry. 2"-4" The bottom of the vertical pieces(yellow) that hold the Y screw assembly will also be chopped off. I didnt want to change that in the drawing. I think I am going to use 1545 instead of 1530 on the uprights, this will spread the gantry bearings out about 10.5". Please let me know if any one see's anything that may be a problem. I have designed this with versatility in construction, in mind. example is that I can move the screws along the extrusions to maximize the screw and slides, in all directions. Also the mounting plates for the ball nuts will have slots cut, there for you will have adjustability in both directions. Along the slot of extrusions and up and down along the slots on the plate. Lets here some noise. I want to start cutting as soon as I get my last rails.(36") [IMG]see[/IMG] |
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#10
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CNCFoam: Looks good. Nice drawings. I have similar rails and ballscrews on my machine, but the structure is 6061, Oak and Popular. On my machine, I built the bed of the unit to mount inside the outer extrusions. I also put adjustments in place so that I could use a dial indicator and set the bed level relative to the cutter head. I then flycut the bed for a near perfect level. Just an idea to be able to level the bed with only minor adjustments. Jerry |
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#11
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Do you have a picture of your bed adjustment? I will probably lay a MDF board inbetween the side rails. I can put a few more cross members of 8020 and bolt down the MDF a do a deep counter sink on the top side and bolt into the cross members. Or I could fill in the table area with 8020 and use the slots for clamping down material. I will be putting adjustable feet under the legs for further adjustment. Im just waiting to find some 36" rails then I will start cutting the frame. EZ Still looking for imput.!!!! |
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#12
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Two of the adjusters can be seen in the toolbox at the sides over the legs. I used the legs as the base of the adjustment. I took some 2 inch X 6 mm Hex cap screws with Nut. I drilled a countersunk hole in the cross member and epoxied the nut in place on the bottom. At the top, I installed a round spring on the shaft of the cap screw to keep it in tension. Adjustment is taking a hex allen wrench and turning the screw to raise or lower the bed at each corner. The end of the screw touches the top of the leg. Not too sure if it shows up too good in the photo. Jerry |
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